Brian's Bathroom Projects [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

PDA

View Full Version : Brian's Bathroom Projects


phillyphundeck
06-26-2006, 08:09 AM
Hi all,

Im in the process of remodeling my bathroom, and want to put down a marble basket weave on the floor. What kind of thinset should I use to lay the tile? I read that for mosaic tile that an epoxy thinset should be used with an expoy grout of the same color. Any thoughts?

Also, since the tile is a basketweave pattern, I know I will have to make a bunch of cuts for all the small tile around the edges. Should I take a sheet of the mosaic tile and try to make one cut per sheet, or remove a bunch of the small peices and make a bunch of single cuts?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and comments.

Brian

Sponsored Links


bbcamp
06-26-2006, 08:18 AM
Use a white modified thinset. Use a modified grout of the color you want. I'd say clear of any darker colors as they may stain the marble.

You'll just have to try it each way to see what works best for you and your mosaics. Many mosaic sheets are glues to paper or other water soluable backing or are assembled with "dots" of adhesive which will make cutting the entire sheet on a wet saw impossible. Some are so un-evenly set on the backeing that you will have to cut them apart to get a uniform grout line.

Trask
06-26-2006, 08:56 AM
Brian ,

exactly what Bob said. you'll just have to play with it. Oh and as if the basket weave isn't trouble enough you'd have to be one sick puppy to wish the added grief of epoxy on yourself. :crap:

one more thing with basket weave pattern..especially where your cutting against a wall or leaving off for the day. Clean every last drop of thinset from in between pieces or spaces( the jagged edge where the next piece of the sheet or pattern would 'key in')that will not be set right away. if you have to scrape it out the next day you'll be sorry...trust me :bang:

phillyphundeck
06-26-2006, 08:53 PM
Thanks for the guidance.

I already have the tile, it is on mesh, so perhaps the one cut will work. Already have the white modified thinset too. Need to do a final prep on the floor, and buy myself a tile saw. Think I will follow the advice from this forum and get a Felker TM 75. Hope to have the floor done by the end of the week. I'll let you know how it goes, and I am sure I will have some more questions as I go along.

Brian

phillyphundeck
06-27-2006, 10:58 AM
I was reading on some of the other threads about insulating walls around a bathtub and how unfaced insulation should be used.

I have already placed insulation around my tub, and placed #15 roofing felt over top before I installed Hardi. I have also already tapped my joints. For my insulation, my back wall (opposite from the shower head) has faced insulation in which I did not cut the moisture barier before installing the felt paper. How crititial is this, and should I spend the time now to redo this so that it doesnt turn into a bigger issue later?

The main reason this bathroom is under remodel is that the roof developed a leak, and rotted out the roof plywood and joists, so I am a bit concerned about water and rot.

Thanks

Brian

bbcamp
06-27-2006, 01:22 PM
Brian, don't sweat it. It's kind of a belt-and-suspenders thing.

The important thing is to maintain your shower's grout and caulking, and keep sealer on the grout (or use epoxy grout). Then, instruct every user to wipe down or squeegee the shower after each use. That won't happen, naturally. :D But if you control the water, you needn't worry about rot.

phillyphundeck
07-08-2006, 02:33 PM
Luckily, its for a guest bathroom, so it won't be used every day, and the walls that would be an issue are away from the shower anyway.

Well, now that the holiday is over, I have finaly had a chance to start the tiling. Laid the main area of the floor this morning, and was careful to remove any thinset on the floor that wasnt covered by tile. I did have a problem with thinset coming up through the tile though, espcialy the first couple till I got the hang of it. I tried to remove as much as possible while placing the tile, but didnt want to disturb the tile too much. How long is too long to wait to try to get out the thinset? How long should I wait till I can walk on the tile?

Also, I have some questions about the rest of the bathroom too. Planning on putting 12x12 tiles around the room on the walls. Our "tile lady" suggested that we butt the tiles right up against eachother and then just force grout into that space. Looking on here, there seems to mixed thoughts on that. Any oppinions here?

She also suggested that we should wait to grout the floor until after the walls were done, and then just do everything together. Does this make sense or should I completely do the floor first and then just the walls?

Anyway, so far everything is going good, perhaps if I remember my camera from work I can put up a few pics later.

Thanks again for your help.

Brian

JTG
07-08-2006, 05:27 PM
Brian
Should have gotten that mortar right then. You must let the tile set at least overnight prior to walking on it. You will be bust with a utility knife getting that mortar out of there.
If the floors and walls are going to be the same color of grout hen wait and do both at the same time. If not do the floor first and let it set for 24hours prior to grouting the walls.
12x12 wall tiles will need some space to get grout between the tile.
If the are square edged tile you could go down to 1/8" or even 1/16th but you will be faced with setting the tile very carefully so lippage is not a problem.
Good Luck
JTG

phillyphundeck
07-22-2006, 01:45 PM
Alrighty, moving slowly but in the right direction.

The floors are pretty much finished and now moving to the walls. I will be putting tile around the tub, and have read that I should put a bead of caulk between the backerboard and tub before tiling, then another one between the tile and the tub afterwards. Would there be any problem with silicone not sticking to itself between these two beads?

Brian

phillyphundeck
07-24-2006, 09:13 AM
Monday morning bump....

About the caulk. One bead between the tub and the backer board and then after tile, or just wait till tile is up?


and a pics, before and current of the floor... :)

Brian

phillyphundeck
07-28-2006, 07:07 AM
So I am tiling the walls now, going slow but good. I have a couple of questions. :scratch:

1) I am using 12 x 12 marble tile. I need to make a rounded (90 deg) cut to fit the curve of my bathtub. Any suggestions on making a nice smooth cut?

2) I am tiling up 4ft around the entire bathroom, and have a edge tile that will cap it off. On some of the tiles (see pic) the top isnt smooth due to the cutting of the stone. Is there an easy way for me to make that look more finished? Can I attach a polishing pad to my TM-75 or an angle grinder? Or should I just take it to my tile person and have them finish it?

3) Is my thinking that I only need the final bead of caulk around the tub correct above?

4) and finaly, can someone change this thread to "Brians bathroom projects."

As always, thanks in advance. :D


Brian

kevjob
07-28-2006, 11:49 AM
polished marble? if so probably want to take to a fabricator. honed is easier to polish

phillyphundeck
07-28-2006, 11:56 AM
The border tile is actualy dull, I'm not sure exactly what finish it is. The wall tile (as you can seen in the background of the pic) is polished. I figured that I could get the black border to match better with sealer.

Brian

jdm
07-28-2006, 12:07 PM
To cut the curved corner, make a paper template to fit the space and transfer the shape to a tile. Cut the two straight sides and make another cut or two to remove the bulk of the material. Then make a series of closely spaced cuts perpendicular to the curve and just up to the line. At the end of each cut, lift the tile so that it is perpendicular to the blade to make the end of the saw cut come up to the same spot on the back of the tile as on the top. You should then be able to snap out all of the "comb teeth" that you have created. Finally, hold the tile perpendicular to the spinning blade and work the tile gently from side to side to grind away the last bits and create a smooth curve. Holding the tile up off of the table is not dangerous because the tile blade doesn't have teeth that can grab the tile. Be careful just the same, however.

And where in Philly are you? I'm just over the river and through the slum in Cherry Hill.

Mike2
07-28-2006, 12:37 PM
Per your request, changed the title of your thread Brian.

:)

phillyphundeck
07-28-2006, 12:40 PM
Thanks Jeff, I shouldn't have a problem with that. :shades:

I'm right in Center City, Logan Square area, about 2 blocks from the Franklin Institute.

Brian

phillyphundeck
08-03-2006, 01:57 PM
I have an outside corner that I will be tiling around. One wall is to the tub, which will be completely tiled, and the second will only be tiled up part way and drywall the rest. For the edge that will have tile to drywall, I have a good edge, and will put bullnose up to that, and have a bullnose up against a regular tile for the other edge. My current layout has a full tile along the entire edge (shower side), but the where the tile-tile corner there would be a bit overage.

So, the short question is should I cut the tile to size or float out the other wall? The other wall is short, but would be a pain to do. On the other hand, the tile has a nice, finished edge with a slight bevel to it that I dont want to lose.

Any Suggestions?

I'll try to scketch it out instead of :blah: trying to describe it.

Brian

phillyphundeck
08-03-2006, 02:06 PM
ok, so the red tile would be bullnosed at the edge, the skinny ones would be on the othe plane. the thing is that although the red ones (full squares) woudl be flush to the edge of the walls, the white ones would be out from the backerboard (I didnt get them all in the same plane :crap: ) so hopefully this makes a bit more sense.

Brian

phillyphundeck
11-01-2006, 09:11 PM
Finaly finishing up this project. Quick question though. It seems on a couple of tiles that I got some thinset on them that left a haze on the marble tile. Is there a polishing pad or something that would help clean this up? If there is nothing easy, there is only one or two, so it isnt that big of a deal, just want it to look as good as possible. Thanks.

Brian