Trying to cut round cornor [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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08-20-2001, 10:53 AM
I am trying to cut a tile to have a rounded profile on one side, the other side will still be square. What is the best way to cut this? I have a wet saw, and can get the basic outline of the curve, but I need some way to polish off the edge, and make it look more finished. What is the best way to do this?

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08-20-2001, 02:01 PM

Could you tell the forum what kind of tile you are using?

Ceramic, porcelain, natural stone, etc.

The tools may vary depending on your answer


08-31-2001, 11:34 AM
The tiles are 12x12 ceremic standard 1/4" thick.

Thanks for any help.

Bud Cline
08-31-2001, 02:21 PM
Are you trying to round an edge like bullnose or make a curve in the flat view, concave or convex?

08-31-2001, 02:35 PM
I am trying to make a curve to follow the shape of the floor. I beleive it is convex. (curves outward, like if it were a round room.) problem is it is not right up aganst a wall, it will be visible, so I need it to be as clean of a cut as possible. I looked at that Schuler stuff, but wife didn't really like it. I can't say I liked it much either. Just wanting to make a smooth cut.


Bud Cline
08-31-2001, 02:45 PM
Curious now to know the radius of the circle. Sometimes it is possible to simply run the cut on a wet saw by repositioning your tile time after time and cutting a small amount of tile with each change.

You can also draw your line with a fine point permanent marker, then scribe over your line with a glass cutting tool to etch your line into the tile surface, then run it through the saw repeatedly. The saw blade will trim the tile to your score (etch).

This can also be accomplished with nippers, nipping to a score/etch.

If you are saying this tile edge will be exposed when the job is complete, that isn't something that is normally done with glazed ceramic tile, porcelain yes.

I use a belt sander for porcelain, marble and granite masterpieces but it requires a silicon carbide belt. You can only get silicon carbide belts from specialty suppliers as far as I know.

You can also buy a diamond file ($25) at a sporting goods store, they are sold to hunters and outdoorsmen as pocket knife sharpeners. Available in three grits, the black is the coarse I believe.

These are trade secrets so don't tell anybody OK?

[Edited by Bud Cline on 08-31-2001 at 04:51 PM]

08-31-2001, 02:51 PM
I have a wetsaw, and was planning on dooing the small cuts to get close to the circle, but is there a way to polish out those last little cornors to make them look clean. I don't think the nippers give a very clean look to the tile.

It is a farily large radius, it is the top of a step into a sunken den

Bud Cline
08-31-2001, 02:53 PM

I was editing while you were typing I guess.

I'm not clear now on what corners your talking about.

08-31-2001, 02:57 PM
If I make small passes with the wetsaw, will I not have little strait cuts, making little cornors between each one?

That is what I ment.

Thanks for your help.

Bud Cline
08-31-2001, 03:01 PM
This method will more than likely produce corners you don't want but if you take your time and work the tile you can use the saw blade as a power file. It won't be easy but it can be done.

If the water creates visibility problems in your fine tuning, turn the water off for a short time. I'm saying use the side of the blade more than the nose.

08-31-2001, 03:04 PM

I have thought about trying to find a complementing bullnose tile to use, but I don't think that would work for me either. When tiling a stem, shouldn't the bull nose be used on the top of the step, and not on the riser? if that is so it wouldn't work, the step is round in shape. This step is going to be the death of me. I know know now why they just carpeted it.

Thanks again

Bud Cline
08-31-2001, 03:31 PM
Yes, bullnose on top.

But it is easy (he said it was easy?)but it is easy to use bullnose on an outside radius by reducing the size of the bullnose. Actually you can follow just about any radius (inside or out).

Some guys simply "straight cut" the bullnose and leave the grout lines "pie shaped", but of course I have to cut the tile "pie shaped" and keep the grout lines straight. That requires a little math sometimes but it can be done.

John Bridge
08-31-2001, 04:29 PM
Hey Jason,

Bud already hit on how to smooth out the edge of the cut tiles. Use the side of the blade on the wet saw. Sort of drag the piece against it at a very flat angle. Don't let the nose of the blade dig in at all. If you are very careful (and patient), you can grind off the edge with the diamond chips on the side of the blade. That would be the right side as you are facing the saw.

If you are working with a glazed tile, however, the clay body will be exposed. If it's porcelain or stone (as Bud mentioned) you can make it look acceptable by sanding or rubbing.

(Takes a lota rubbin' to rub a porcelain tile.)

[Edited by John Bridge on 08-31-2001 at 07:35 PM]

08-31-2001, 04:53 PM
Thx John....But I think you mean't to address Nathan rather than myself?

John Bridge
08-31-2001, 05:37 PM
You're right, Jason, but didn't you enjoy the lecture? Sorry.

Nathan, do what I said. :D