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Paul Le
05-03-2006, 09:37 PM
Dear All,

I have been to both of the two major Home Improvement centers in my search for RedGuard, but the employees at both locations didn't have a clue what I was talking about when I told them that it was a liquid waterproofing membrane that is put on cementboard prior to tiling. I live in the Northern VA area. Any guidance as to where I can go to purchase this product is much appreciated.

Paul

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Tool Guy - Kg
05-03-2006, 09:45 PM
Hi Paul,
Pretty common experience. The Home Depots by me have Custom Building Products, and so they stock RedGard (http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/docs/data_sheets/RedGard%20DS%203-05.pdf?user=pro&lang=en). In my stores, it's located between the thinset mortars and the grout. Show them the picture below, maybe it will help. Good Luck! :)

DonB
05-03-2006, 09:49 PM
Paul,

Did you look in the tile section at HD? That's where they hide the stuff from the hired help.

Alternatively, find a real tile store and get yourself some Hydroment Ultra-Set. Although I've only used RedGard once, and that just was to isolate a very small crack, I like the Hydroment a whole lot better.

Don

NVC
05-03-2006, 09:57 PM
I use Hydroment also, but I use the Hydroment "Gold" . . . I think. :)

Mark

Paul Le
05-03-2006, 10:14 PM
Thanks for quick replies.

I have been to the tile section of several HD's as well as Lowes in the area without any luck. When I tell them it's a liquid waterproofing product that you can apply by brush or roller on the surface of cementboards, they promptly send me to the paint section. Will have to try the local tile store next to see if they stock Redgard or this other product. Paul

Mike2
05-03-2006, 10:49 PM
Paul, at my HD Redgard is in the tile section on a shelf above the mortars, next to the grout.

You won't find it at Lowes. There you will see either Mapei's Mapelastic M19 or possibly Laticrete's 9235 Waterproofind Membrane.

What are you using this for?

:)

PaulHG
05-03-2006, 11:06 PM
I found it at HD here in TX also -
First time to use it - noticed it said you could roll it on or trowel it -
I opted for troweling --
BIG MESSY mistake -- at least for me -
If I ever get drunk enough to agree to another bathroom remodel -
I WILL use Redgard -- but will definitely ROLL it on.

BTW - No surprise they didnt know what you were talking about -
You are lucky if you found one that knew what cement board was.

In all fairness --
-- I -- didn't know what Redgard was either - till I started hanging out here.
Never heard of it -
I was one of those naive souls who assumed the tile itself took care of water issues - at least on walls.

Many thanks for saving me from myself -

Paul Le
05-03-2006, 11:19 PM
I agree with your assessment. The level of competency and experience of the service reps at HD have definitely gone downhill. I seldom find anyone there capable of giving good advise and recommendation on DIY projects.

Back to the subject, I am getting ready to start a complete re-do of my upstairs bathroom and was looking to waterproof a shower niche I'm going to build prior to tiling.

BTW, I have read and re-read various threads on this extremely informative site/forum in preparation for the project. Thanks to all who take the time to contribute your expertise and knowledge to the weekend DIY'ers like me.

Paul

Mike2
05-04-2006, 12:06 AM
It's good to hear from you Paul and welcome to the forum.

:)

Any of those liquid membranes I mentioned above are fine for niches. You won't need much but gallon size packaging (RedGard and Mapelastic M19) good for 50 SF or so is the smallest quantity you'll find.

Paul Le
05-04-2006, 01:43 AM
Roger that. Will give the big two another try. Thanks again!

derick
05-04-2006, 12:27 PM
Try going to:

http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/WhereToBuy.aspx?user=diy&lang=en

and put in your zip. HD had no idea what I was talking about either. It was there though. I used a roller to put it on. It looks good. Hope it works that way too!

Good luck!

Derick

daffy
05-04-2006, 12:50 PM
The HD in Washington DC definitely has Redgard (in the thinset / grout etc area in the tile section) and the Falls Church HD definitely had at least 1 pail a few weeks ago (because I returned one there once I went totally Kerdi and didn't need it :) )

David

Paul Le
05-04-2006, 04:27 PM
Daffy/ Thanks for the heads-up on the Falls Church location. I managed to score a 1 gallon bucket of RedGard at a the local Daltile dealer in Alexandria, VA earlier this afternoon. It was $60, and I probably paid too much, but beggars can't be choosers so I bought it there. Paul

RLeVan
05-04-2006, 05:47 PM
The HD in Fairfax, VA (off Rt. 29 and West Ox Road) sells it. If you can't find it, I have a few gallons that I didn't use.

randy5150
05-05-2006, 08:36 AM
$60 isn't too bad. HD by me sells it for $52. Like Mike said the HD centers in my area always have the Redgard next to the thinset and the thinset is usually a couple aisles from the tile section with other cement procucts. Why they do this I don't know. The first time I went to HD for redgard they tried to send me to the paint section too. Someone said in a post yesterday that most consumers of big box stores aren't looking for best quality but rather best bargain. Their products along with their employees are mediocre at best. randy

PaulHG
05-05-2006, 08:53 AM
60 isn't too bad. HD by me sells it for $52.
That makes the $37 I paid here in Fort Worth sound like a bargain.

Someone said in a post yesterday that most consumers of
big box stores aren't looking for best quality but rather best bargain. Their
products along with their employees are mediocre at best.
Sad but true -
Complain as we will -- the reason the big boxes are able to drive so many old style hardware stores out of business - and the reason they are able to get away with such shoddy treatment of customers ---
Is that THOUSANDS of us are convinced that we are saving a dollar here and there and that that is more important than anything else.
"We have met the enemy - and he is us." Pogo

Paul Le
05-05-2006, 10:10 PM
Went to the HD on Richmond HWY, one of 3 in the area that I frequent, and right there in the tile accessories section, mixed in with the grout and thinset sat a gallon of Redgard, priced at $37. I guess I got boned for about $20.00. :crap:

RLevan/ Thanks for the offer. I only need enough for the Niche so 1 gallon should be plenty I should think.

I guess one problem solved, but I just started the demo today so I'm sure there'll be plenty more bumps before it's done. Thanks all!

Paul Le
05-05-2006, 10:13 PM
Scooter/ Did you say don't screw the Cementboard into the joists, just the plywood? I'm getting ready to put some CBU down on my upstairs bath and want to confirm that this is the proper method to lay down CBU on the floor.

Thanks/Paul

Tool Guy - Kg
05-05-2006, 10:13 PM
Yep, $37 at my HD; walked past a full shelf of them today. :)

JTG
05-05-2006, 10:17 PM
Man I wished I had my digital with me while at home depot today. There in the store was this fellow with his orange aporn on and he had a pair of knee pads on. Upside down. I so much wish I had the camera to get him into the tile section and picture of him holding up a piece of tile. Would have been priceless.
JTG

Mike2
05-05-2006, 10:22 PM
:rofl:

Tool Guy - Kg
05-05-2006, 10:30 PM
Scooter/ Did you say don't screw the Cementboard into the joists, just the plywood? I'm getting ready to put some CBU down on my upstairs bath and want to confirm that this is the proper method to lay down CBU on the floor.

Thanks/PaulHi Paul,

I moved your question over to your thread here. Keeps from derailing others and it helps us give you a better, more precise answer.

As to your question: For floors it's best to screw the cbu to the plywood only and avoid the joists. By doing so, you help isolate the tile job from movement below. :)

JTG
05-05-2006, 10:33 PM
Paul
Make sure that you follow the mfg's spacing for screws also. Don't forget to tape the seams prior to setting the tile.
Good luck
JTG

PS Kurt you had me faked out. I had typed up a response and then when I submitted it there was a msg I was not allowed at this site. Figured someone had moved it.

Isn't it time for you to hit the hay man. Getting late back in your neck of the woods.

Tool Guy - Kg
05-05-2006, 10:36 PM
:devil2: He he he.

Sometimes I don't go to bed until 3am or 4am my time. That puts it about the time you wake up, eh? Sorry I was merging and splitting....and Mike2 was doing the same. I don't know who was more confused. :stupid2: :D

JTG
05-05-2006, 10:38 PM
Kurt
It works that other way. It is midnight here when it is 3:00am there.
JTG

Tool Guy - Kg
05-05-2006, 10:40 PM
You mean yer not on the East coast?

I TOLE YOU I WAS CONFUSED!!! :stupid2: :rofl:

Paul Le
05-07-2006, 05:38 PM
Question for the master tilers out there:

The backwall of my tub has a window, and I have removed all the moulding and the walls have been taken down to studs in preparation for the cementboard install. However, once the cementboard is hung (prior to tiling), it will be flush with the window frame. Once I start tiling, the surface around the window will be raised by the thickness of the tile + thinset. Here is the question:

1. Do I tile all the way to the INTERIOR edge of the window frame and use bullnose tiles to frame the window and forget about putting back the window moulding, or

2. Do I tile up to the EXTERIOR edge of the window frame with field tiles, fur out the actual window frame so that it becomes flush with the tiles, then install new window moulding?

Thanks for your advise. Paul

JTG
05-07-2006, 05:51 PM
Paul
#1. You want to get tile on as much of the surface as possible. You will also have to put CBU on all of the window fram wood as it is not a good idea to stick tile to dimentional lumber. Use the bullnose tile inside the window frame. Caulk well around the window when done.
JTG

jdm
05-07-2006, 07:12 PM
You might even consider replacing the window with a vinyl one.

Paul Le
05-13-2006, 10:38 PM
I am replacing the old faucet plumbing, starting with the old and worn out 1.5 inch cast iron nipple with a PVC male adapter so I can run a PVC P-trap under the sink. My question is will it be as simple as screwing the PVC male adapter into the cast iron pipe, or will I need to get some type of sealant and apply it to the PVC prior to doing so? Thanks for your advise. Paul

Tool Guy - Kg
05-13-2006, 10:42 PM
Paul,
With old iron pipes, it's important that you clean off the old cruddy threads as clean as you can before doing anything. Spend some time with a wire brush around the threads to clean them up.

Then YES, you need teflon paste on the threads before you screw on anything. :)