Tileing a wet bar countertop (granite), need your advice... [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

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dominogold
04-10-2006, 06:51 PM
Ok so I'm going over budget on my basement project... the reason? The wet bar...even more specific... since when has a simple wet bar countertop cost $1500-3000!!!? I had no idea the countertops these days are so expensive.

I have a 2x6 "L" shaped wall built at 40.5" tall to support a wet bar overhang with a countertop. After getting quotes on formica installed from $1200 and up to single-slab granite for $2000 and up, I'm trying to brainstorm a less expensive way to get a nice countertop while keeping it looking great.

I have maple cabinets, and I was thinking it would look great to build the countertop out of some type of wood, then set granite tiles on top and use a maple edge along the outside of the bar overhang, that would bring out the cabinet color to the outside of the bar and would look great.

Do any of you know what I would need to do to accomplish something like this? Basically I'm looking to build a countertop in an "L" shape that is 78"x18" on one side and 61"x18" on the other part of the L, but I don't know what kind of wood to get that would support tile on top, and how thick to make it, etc. Anyone done a project like this?

Thanks much

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jadnashua
04-10-2006, 08:02 PM
Lots of projects here on similar things. How messy it gets is determined by how much of an overhang you have. Basically, a couple of layers of 3/4" plywood, then either an antifracture membrane like Ditra (see Schluter systems icon on the right) or cement board (1/4" would be fine) installed per instructions, then the tile. Attach your edging after grouting, and you're done. You might want to consider expoy grout, since bars tend to be spilled on with some messy, sticky stuff.

dominogold
04-11-2006, 10:37 AM
Would anyone disagree with this article? Looks pretty good...

http://www.rd.com/content/openContent.do?contentId=17870

JTG
04-11-2006, 10:48 AM
That article looked pretty good. You will find that the marble and granite mortar comes in 50# bags.
The marble edge will look real nice and that is an easy way to go. I don't know about the 45 angle jig thing. I find that trying to cut the tile on the 45 like that leaves a very sharp edge and they chip easy.
good luck. give us a first name. and share your project with us. Some before, during and after pics would be great.
JTG

bbcamp
04-11-2006, 11:04 AM
I'd like to see a second layer of plywood under the granite. You never know when someone will be up there dancing! :D

GraniteGirl
04-11-2006, 11:40 AM
When selecting stone tile for a busy bar, be sure to test for absorption (you can remedy this by applying a sealer) or acid reactivity (no remedy for this, short of hiring a stone restoration guy to come and refinish your bar top occasionaly)


You will be using a lot of acids in a bar (coffee,tea, any kind of fruit juice, anything in a bloody Mary, lime wedges for the beer etc) so having something acid proof would make your life a lot easier :shades:

dominogold
04-25-2006, 02:11 PM
So I have the plywood down...

What do you know, the wood warped very badly. It's already screwed in and liquid nailed to the half-wall!

How can I straighten and level this thing out? Kind of important to have the countertop level.

dominogold
04-25-2006, 02:15 PM
Another question...

Do I have to thinset between the plywood and the 1/2" hardiboard, as well as between the hardiboard and tile or can I just do it between the hardiboard and tile.

Thanks

DonB
04-25-2006, 10:11 PM
Look here for some ideas on controlling plywood and big overhangs. Plywood has a mind of its own. You gotta force it to do what you need it to do.

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=34445&highlight=island

Don