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RobSlidell
12-29-2005, 08:00 PM
I want to tile the entire floor of a small house. Where do I start with the layout? If I try to use one continuous layout, naturally some rooms will end up with very small pieces against the walls. Also, the transition from room to room seams awkward. Should I treat the house as a whole or separate rooms? How do I make room to room transitions? I am using the same tile throughout.

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opiethetileman
12-29-2005, 08:11 PM
Depends when i run a whole house i think of my eye and what it sees first. I try and center the focal point of a room ie a fireplace or front door or hallway. If that doesnt work then I go and find the biggest room and work of it. I would try and grid your entire floor out if you can. But i would not treat every room as its own it will look like the pros from HOME REPO fixed it with mastic. the key to a nice looking natural flowing floor is making it flow and look smooth.

Splinter
12-29-2005, 08:27 PM
ditto... Grab a tape measure and start measuring rooms... The last job where I tiled an entire house had a narrow entry hall, so I centered it up on that. I got lucky with layout, there wasnt a single room that I didnt have about a half tile at the perimeter. (it was all on diagonal)

RobSlidell
12-29-2005, 08:58 PM
Thanks.
I thougt the hall would be the place to start. The tile are 16x16, the hall is 38 inches wide. One row down the center fits nice with a large piece on both sides, but depending on the straightness of the walls, potentially a very small piece in the rooms on each side of the hall. Centering two rows in the hall this leaves a very small piece on both sides of the hall, but a better fit in the rooms. I have thought about cutting the tiles as they cross the door threshold to create a grout line, then centering the pattern in the rooms to get a large tile along the wall. Also thought about a threshold created by cutting small squares. Any other suggestions? Thanks.

Theoderik
12-29-2005, 09:10 PM
If you're running with rooms off a main hall, why not tile the hall and throw a boarder on a diagonal around the edge. Then, when you step into each room, you can either diagonal boarder the rooms or just lay it all out normal/straight in each room. The diagonal boarder of the hall should break up any off-pattern you may have. No?

sw (shawn)

muskymike
12-29-2005, 09:17 PM
Hi Rob, welcome! What these guys said. :)

doitright
12-29-2005, 09:32 PM
Hi Rob, Welcome! :)

Sounds like you already have the basics.

We have done straight runs down the hallway, seperated rooms by ripping the tiles to the width of the jambs, single tile borders with diagonal tile insets, etc.

Everything mentioned thusfar are excellent suggestions. Another way to visualize is to do some layout work on a floorplan.

RobSlidell
12-29-2005, 10:51 PM
Thanks. Appreciate all the advice. Hope to start this weekend.

T_Hulse
12-29-2005, 11:10 PM
You can try to get as many of the doorways as possible to have a grout line in them. Then you can shrink up the tile on both sides by up to an inch or more, which changes the whole room by up to 2" (in one direction only). To change the room by the same amount in the other direction, often you can steal 1/2" or 3/4" out of 2 or 3 rows in the adjoining hallway.
Another "threshold" type look I've seen is to use 2 rows of opposite triangles to make a 4.5" strip the full width of the doorway. Then you can really make some serious changes to the layout in that room.

tileguynky
12-30-2005, 04:48 PM
I have seen and used some of the various stone decos that are multi size/color at door jambs. If the two rooms are different color, you might get lucky and find a deco with both colors to "transfer" through the doorway.

RobSlidell
12-31-2005, 01:52 AM
Thanks for all suggestions.
I cut a couple of test pieces of tile to the width of the door jamb. I think it will work fine (especially for a small rental). I will keep the grout lines continuous through out the house to minimize the HOME REPO look. However, I think I will have a little more time to make my final decision. I have been reading many other threads on the thin layer of black adhesive I think you guys refer to as cutback, which was left after removing the 40 yr old vinyl tile in the kitchen. I have also painstakingly chiseled up the parkay floor in the rest of the house which left a redish brown adhesive. I read alot on scraping and some mention of Versa Bond. Looks like I have more to read and learn.

sandbagger
01-02-2006, 12:45 AM
a couple of thoughts from an amateur who's struggled with a similar problem. If you are set on making it continuous and are halfway decent with a computer, you can try this.

Use a drawing program to make a basic layout of the house and interior walls. Doesn't have to be real detailed - but it does need to be to scale and show the major doorways and transitions. (closets are probably irrelevant) Now make a grid with each square being the size of a tile plus grout. eg - if you have 14x14 tile and 1/4" grout, then each square is 14-1/4 x 14-1/4. Make the total grid somewhat larger than the house layout and use transparent fill. Now you can lay the grid over the house outline and you'll see how the layout fits the house. move the grid around until you see what you like.