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06-16-2005, 10:41 PM
Durock and straight walls
Hi, I am new to this site and am learning a lot. I live in S. Cal and am in the middle of renovating my bathroom. I am a carpenter/cabinet maker and only have a small amount of tile experience. I was hoping that someone could help me with a few questions?

I replaced my shower curb with 3 new 2x4's and had the the shower floor hot mopped. Last weekend I installed #15 felt on the shower walls from floor to ceiling. I then started to install Durock. One of my problems is that I cannot get the cement boards to meet in the corners. Besides that there are many indents in the walls. When I hold the level to the walls the lower section sticks out more since I cannot use screws through the hot mopped section and makes the walls not plum. Also, when I hold the level against the walls they are not smooth. There are high and low spots. Could this be from the framing or even the felt behind? I purchased 4 mil plastic and am contemplating taking down the felt and using the plastic since it is way more pliable.

If that is not enough to stress me, my plumber installed to shower valve and I think it is way to far out and that he willl need to come back and reset it. I stopped in a panic and am trying to regroup to start again. I tried to see if I could get a tile guy to do the walls for me then I would take over, but they say around $1500.00 to float a 3x3 shower. Yikes!

I am back on the track of tackeling it again by myself. Any advice? I am a woman whose husbands back has been out for 2 months(siatic nerve) and he cannot help me.

I also have another question re: the cement board and tile height. I plan on stopping the tile just above the showerhead and am planning on just using drywall mud over the cement board to create and even base. I just want plain walls then crown to finish it off. Is this ok to do? Will that work?

Please help, I am so tired and need to get this bathroom finished in this lifetime. I cannot tile the bathroom floor or finish the wainscotting and casings until the shower is dialed in. :bang:

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06-16-2005, 11:05 PM
It is easy to have the cbu tent a little. This can be caused by the screw not always starting immediately into the framing after it comes through the cbu. In other words, the threads of the screw can hold the board away from the wall creating a hump in the board. It is a pain to screw them in, especially if you don't have a powerful drill or you don't press it hard enough to start the screw into the wall as soon as it exits the board. If that is all it is, then I found that if I backed the screw out while pushing in, the screw acted like a drill bit, then when I screwed it back in, the board didn't act like a nut holding it away from the stud and it could be drawn tight down. If the hump is by a screw, that is a possible reason. Some people drill a pilot hole through the cbu first. If you have a heavy duty drill, it is usually powerful enough to tear out the threads created by drilling through the cbu so the board snugs up to the way. Basically, the screw head holds the board to the wall, and the threads hold the screw to the wall. If the threads are holding the board away from the wall, you have a problem. You could have out of square or out of line studs, as well. You need to ensure your cbu is flat up against the studs first, then you might need to screed some thinset on the wall to flatten it up. One of the pros may have some other thoughts for you as well.

06-18-2005, 10:51 AM
Thanks, I am planning on working on this again today since it is saturday. I will check and see if that is what is happening. I am also thinking it may be the felt. I am going to take down the felt and use plastic and try again. Do you use nails or screws? I would think that the screws would give a more solid and stable surface.

06-18-2005, 11:09 AM
Hi Shannon, we normally instruct folks to notch the studs at the bottom where the pan is against, especially the corner studs where the pan has more folds and is thicker. Of course this must be done before the pan is installed. This lets the pan sit back into the studs so the CBU will go over it without bulging. Hope you follow me here. The other way is to fur out the studs with lattice strips to get the CBU out past the pan. This won't straighten the crooked studs but will get the CBU over the pan straight.

06-18-2005, 11:20 AM
Dave, The floor was hot mopped and pretty much does sit flat against the studs. So there is no pan involved or notching needed.
I am planning on taking the 3 cement boards off and removing the felt and using plastic. I also got a 6 foot level from work and will try and shim out any low spots before I put the plastic up. Hopefully that will help with the plumness as well as making the corners meet better since I won't have the bulky felt.

06-18-2005, 05:55 PM
Hey Dave, I checked and I used the pan set up that was already there. The walls were notched and the pan framing was set back. I just finished ripping down all the felt paper and pulling most of the staples. Not fun! I am now checking the walls to see what needs to be done b-4 the plastic goes up. Thanks for your help and now I understand what you were saying!

06-18-2005, 09:13 PM
That's great. :) Let the plastic overlap the pan a few inches and run the CBU within 3/4 inch of the floor. You're cook'in now. :)