Tile over tile (Tile newb) [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

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JPicasso
12-21-2004, 08:09 AM
Bathroom is 1960's mosaic tile.

Want to tile over this with ceramic tiles.

1) Am I correct in "just" applying thinset and tile?
I should not need any other underlayment or whatnot.

2) These tiles still have a glaze on them. Do I need to take that off and what is the best product for that?

3) The bathroom also has 4x4 wall tiles 1/2 way up the wall, which will be tore out / replaced. The tiles are grouted down to about 1/2 inch from the floor and then a transition tile was glued to the wall where it met the floor. Will I be able to just use a round tile and tile up the wall without this break or would it be best to copy this technique?

4) The shower insert ceiling has tile on it. What is the best way to duplicate this? Do I put in a handful of tile and then wedge up a piece of ply to let them set overnight? I don't want them dropping butter side down and ruining my tub...

5) Anyone want to help remove my cast iron tub? Bets on if it fits out the door?

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bbcamp
12-21-2004, 11:28 AM
Hi, JPicasso!

1 & 2 ) If the existing tiles are firmly adhered and not cracked, then yes, you can tile over them without adding another underlayment. Clean them to remofve all traces of body oil, lotion, soap scum, dirt and other yuck (TSP will do wonders), then you can scuff the tiles with a belt sander, or angle grinder. 60 grit belt will do. You don't have to get every bit of the glace off, just rough the surface a little. Vacuum all the dust thoroughly, wipe with damp sponge to get the last little bit. Oh, yeah, this will get dusty, so protect youself and the rest of your house. Use a good latex-modified thinset to set the tiles.


3) No, you don't have to copy that detail. I believe what you have is a sanitary cove. You can simply run your wall tiles to the floor if you want.

4) When you set ceiling tiles, burn in the thin set on the ceiling using the flat side of the trowel, then back butter the tiles. Then build a ridge of thinset around the perimeter of the tile to form a continuous rim. When you place that tile, the rim makes a suction cup that will hold the tile in place. Protect your tub with a couple of layers of heavy cardboard and a folded blanket, 'cause **it happens.

5) If you aren't planning on saving the tub, use a sledge hammer and break it apart. Gloves, eye and ear protection are a must!

John Bridge
12-21-2004, 05:11 PM
Hi Picasso. give us a first name please (and don't say Pablo). ;)

As Bob mentioned, you can break the cast iron tub up with a sledge hammer. Hit it right on the top in the middle and it might break in two rather cleanly. :)

JPicasso
12-22-2004, 07:32 AM
Thanks for the responses!

couple of follow ups.

4) What is burning the thinset in? Is it just a skim coat of thinset applied evenly over the surface? Do I let it start to set up first?

5) My wife is going to love this solution.... or she will hate it. :)

3) Not much of a "sanitary" cove as all the tiles have come loose and are filthy. I think we will match the wall tile to the floor and set in a rounded tile all grouted and everything.

jadnashua
12-22-2004, 08:19 AM
4. Using the flat side of the trowel, push thinset onto the back of the tile (or mating surface). Scrape off the excess using the same side. Then, depending on the circumstances, add some more and use the notched side for proper depth. Usually, with a tile, you skip adding more, and rely on what is on the floor to handle it. This procedure fills in all of the little pores of the tile (or other surface) and helps to ensure 100% coverage and a good bond.

3 a sanitary cove is a cove shaped tile to joint two surfaces at 90 degrees, like floor to wall rather than butting them up at right angles.

bbcamp
12-22-2004, 08:49 AM
5) Can't help much on the wife. Spousal unit replacment kinda expensive, though. :D