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Ace
11-02-2004, 08:03 AM
Hi Folks,

Someone on another board turned me on to you guys and I'm glad he did because I have questions. :)

So here goes: I have my shower all boarded up ready for tile.

http://www.reprovideo.com/pma_images/tile_2.jpg

Here's a shot of my first dry attempt at a layout. I've since changed the layout so the edge cuts will not be so small.

1.) Do I need to seal the seams of the backer board before I start or will the mud I use to attach the tiles do that for me?

2.) Do I butt the tile up to each other where they meet in the corner or leave a space for grout?

I'll probably have more questions soon.

Thanks!

Ace

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Jason_Butler
11-02-2004, 09:01 AM
You can either tape/float the seams prior to setting the tile or do it as you go. I like to do it before tiling just so I don't forget.

Leave about 1/8" gap in the corners. You can grout them but caulk is recommended

Jason

Unregistered
11-02-2004, 11:24 AM
You can either tape/float the seams prior to setting the tile or do it as you go. I like to do it before tiling just so I don't forget.

Leave about 1/8" gap in the corners. You can grout them but caulk is recommended

Jason

Thanks for the info.

Rd Tile
11-02-2004, 06:35 PM
I would also do something about that wood I see around the window, it should be covered with a CBU and then waterproofed with a paint on membrane such as Redgard or this will be a problem area.:)


For the layout you might want to draw a line down the middle of the wall then go off of that for the layout, the way you have it taped shows 2 thin strips of tile, I would try for larger cuts there.:)

For a DIYer, Tape and thinset the joints when tiling, no worrying about humps getting in the way.:)

Ace
11-04-2004, 06:50 AM
I would also do something about that wood I see around the window, it should be covered with a CBU and then waterproofed with a paint on membrane such as Redgard or this will be a problem area.:)


For the layout you might want to draw a line down the middle of the wall then go off of that for the layout, the way you have it taped shows 2 thin strips of tile, I would try for larger cuts there.:)

For a DIYer, Tape and thinset the joints when tiling, no worrying about humps getting in the way.:)

Thanks for the advice on the window. I hate having that window there but it's an old house and it's the least of my problems. I've started putting the tiles up and it seems that my floor pan is not as level as I thought. It's a bit off on one side. I should have been more carefull. :rolleyes: So I have my first row of tiles perfectly level but there is an uneven gap where the tile reaches shower pan. I will probably put a row of smaller row tiles on the bottom to hide this issue.

bbcamp
11-04-2004, 06:58 AM
It would look better if the bottom row of tiles were trimmed to account for the out-of-level pan. Start with a full tile at the lowest point, trim the rest to accomodate the slope.

Of course, it'd look better if you could level the pan first. ;)


On the wall layout, it looks like you'll have 2 skinny tiles in the corners. I think it'd look better if you shifted the layout so the grout line is in the middle, and you have 2 full and 2 a-little-more-than-half tiles along the back wall.

Ace
11-04-2004, 07:02 AM
It would look better if the bottom row of tiles were trimmed to account for the out-of-level pan. Start with a full tile at the lowest point, trim the rest to accomodate the slope.

Of course, it'd look better if you could level the pan first. ;)


On the wall layout, it looks like you'll have 2 skinny tiles in the corners. I think it'd look better if you shifted the layout so the grout line is in the middle, and you have 2 full and 2 a-little-more-than-half tiles along the back wall.

Damn, I knew it would have been better to ask first. Well, there's no taking off the tiles now so the gap is there. I'm not so much worried about the water creeping in as much as I am upset with myself.

On the layout, I've switched to the center grout line and now I have two in the center of the wall with almost full tiles on the edges.

bbcamp
11-04-2004, 07:08 AM
If you set the tiles yesterday with thinset, they probably will come off easy enough this morning.

Ace
11-04-2004, 07:10 AM
If you set the tiles yesterday with thinset, they probably will come off easy enough this morning.

Nope. The first row was done several days ago. I hope I'm not screwed.

bbcamp
11-04-2004, 07:35 AM
Do it the way you planned and let's have a look at it when you're finished. I'm thinking you may have room for a small corner bead to finish off the bottom.

Ace
11-04-2004, 08:07 AM
Do it the way you planned and let's have a look at it when you're finished. I'm thinking you may have room for a small corner bead to finish off the bottom.

Thanks! I'll take some pics today as I am working.

Ace
11-04-2004, 04:20 PM
Here is an update. I am now near the window and I have a couple of questions. Do I cut the tile flush with the top of the wood frame or just below it?

Also, what is the best way to cut out the tiles around the window? Do I need a powered saw to do this or is there a way to do it by hand?

Thanks for all the help so far.

Ace

LonnythePlumber
11-04-2004, 06:47 PM
I notice from your picture that you left the hole around the shower valve too small. You should cut the proper size hole but if you don't, then you had at least better check to see if your escutcheon needs to set back into the wall. Many manufacturers are now designing their plates with an indentation to force the access requirements.
I recognize that level to a plumber and level to a tile setter are two different standards. We are more concerned with support of the receptor. We can use a two foot level but still be off 1/4" from one wall to the next. Some say you're supposed to look at the little bubble but it tends to keep moving. Ha.

John Bridge
11-04-2004, 07:16 PM
Welcome aboard, Ace. :)

Ace
11-05-2004, 04:30 AM
Welcome aboard, Ace. :)

Thank you, John. :)

John Bridge
11-06-2004, 08:20 AM
Ace,

You'll need to run some waterproofing around the window frame, either a liquid or a fabric type membrane.

When I go around windows I use the bullnose to gauge where to cut the tiles. I then cut the tiles that go under the window and install the bullnose. Miter the corners where the bullnose turns up the sides. I put the cuts againts the window last. Make sure the sill portion tilts slightly in toward the shower.

John Bridge
11-06-2004, 08:27 AM
Here's the finished product.

Ace
11-06-2004, 05:29 PM
That's some beatuiful work. :drool2:

Ace
11-13-2004, 08:30 AM
Hi,

Well, I'm just about done tiling my new shower. Everything seems to be going OK and each little problem I've had I've found a solution. Like cutting a hole in the center of a tile without a hole cutter. Drill a hole and chip away worked and it came out surprisingly good. I'll post some pics later.

I have some questions before I continue. I am just about up to the ceiling and my plan was to finish the walls and then use a smaller tile for the ceiling. Should I tile the ceiling before the wall tiles reach it or does it not matter? Is there something that I need to do differently for ceiling tiles to keep in place?

I am also planning on wrapping the wall tiles around the outside of the shower. I am not sure how to handle the tile that will make the corner. The tiles that reach the edge are cut tiles. I hope this is not an issue when trying to make the corner. Is it?

Thanks for the help. I'll post some pics soon because I think the corner question sounds confusing.

cx
11-13-2004, 10:34 AM
I merged you back with your original thread, Ace. Keep all your questions on this thread so people who may want to help or learn from your project can keep up with the history. :)

I'd tile the ceiling first, but it's not mandatory. The tiles should stay up there by theirownselfs, but you can brace them if you lack confidence. There are several threads out there on just that very subject.

looks to me like you've already gone too far to do the outside corners correctly, but I'll let the big-time tile guys tackle that one.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Ace
11-13-2004, 02:30 PM
I'll keep the questions in here. Sorry about that.

I had a feeling I screwed up on the edges. This is depressing news and I should have asked first. I hope there is a solution. :(

opiethetileman
11-13-2004, 03:05 PM
Not to be rude but looney asked for the valve opening to bigger. It looks the same!!!! There is a reason why it need to be bigger for one the most important if you have a leak or problems you can stick you fingers in there to feel around and check. I dont know if you can make it bigger now. Looks like a moen valve.

Ace
11-13-2004, 03:13 PM
Not to be rude but looney asked for the valve opening to bigger. It looks the same!!!! There is a reason why it need to be bigger for one the most important if you have a leak or problems you can stick you fingers in there to feel around and check. I dont know if you can make it bigger now. Looks like a moen valve.


I can access the valve from the side. There is a small wall there. I thought he meant making sure that holes where the plate screws are clear.

John Bridge
11-13-2004, 05:32 PM
Ace,

I don't know what to tell you about the corners and edges now. You might be able to find a piece of marble or other stone you can run up the edges of the shower to cap off the tiled walls.

LonnythePlumber
11-13-2004, 07:03 PM
I noticed the tight hole also but valve access is not as important as other recommendations. I actually meant more than just for the screw holes. If we do have to replace the valve we can take a sharp 1/4" chisel and just keep pecking away hoping we don't crack a tile. However, Ace be sure to check that your escutcheon will fit flat against the wall. Some have an indentation that won't allow it to go back unless you have the manufacturers recommended hole size.
I'm pleased that you setters can help the DIY and they can achieve such good results.

Ace
11-14-2004, 05:51 AM
I noticed the tight hole also but valve access is not as important as other recommendations. I actually meant more than just for the screw holes. If we do have to replace the valve we can take a sharp 1/4" chisel and just keep pecking away hoping we don't crack a tile. However, Ace be sure to check that your escutcheon will fit flat against the wall. Some have an indentation that won't allow it to go back unless you have the manufacturers recommended hole size.
I'm pleased that you setters can help the DIY and they can achieve such good results.


Thanks. The old plate does not have an indentation and sits flat. Unfortunately the old plate has somehow disappeared so I have to search for it or hope I can find a suitable plate. Even if I have to take that tile off it won't be that big a deal since I just put it on.

My main concern is my screwup on the outside corners.

Again, I appreciate all the help.

Ace

tileguytodd
11-14-2004, 06:05 AM
Perhaps just a piece of schluter schein or Rondec in 3/8" run up the corner on the outsidewall with a cut tile placed for a matching wrap.It wont be as pretty as a bullnose wrap but it will fix the problem and be acceptable enough that you can say "I planned it that way" ;)

As for the cieling, Its a good place to use Mapei type 1 mastic and not worry about anything falling considering your using a smaller tile.it will stick up there,believe me.

Ace
11-14-2004, 08:16 AM
Perhaps just a piece of schluter schein or Rondec in 3/8" run up the corner on the outsidewall with a cut tile placed for a matching wrap.It wont be as pretty as a bullnose wrap but it will fix the problem and be acceptable enough that you can say "I planned it that way" ;)

Sounds like a plan but I need that in English. ;) My father likes to call mistakes like this character. Well, looks like this shower install will be full of it. :laugh2:

Seriously, where might I find a pic of what you are talking about so I can have a better understanding? My instinct was to use bull-nose tile but I did not see it there in the tile color and style that I am using. Will any tile I buy have a bull-nose version available?

As for the cieling, Its a good place to use Mapei type 1 mastic and not worry about anything falling considering your using a smaller tile.it will stick up there,believe me.

I am using Versabond right now and I changes my mind on the small tile and instead might use the 12x12 I am using now. Will that be OK or would using the smaller tile be better not only for ease of installing but for the overall look?

John Bridge
11-14-2004, 10:38 AM
Use the thin set to stick the 12 in. tiles to the ceiling. Mastic would be okay for smaller tiles.

You can find Scheine and all the Schluter trims on their web site. The most used pieces, including scheine and Rondec are available at Home Depot.

http://www.schluter.com

Ace
11-15-2004, 11:57 AM
Thanks you for the link. I'm heading to HD today to check it out.

I have an idea that I'd like to do to the window. I was thinking of dressing it up with a different color tile like this Photoshop idea. It would be put on top of the tile there now to frame it. Just like a normal would frame would be put around a window. I think it would look cool. Is there anything wrong about doing this and what would be the best way to adhere the frame tile to the wall tile?

Thanks!