Glass shower panel install [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

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JackQT
06-27-2019, 04:02 PM
I hate to register and immediately ask a question. . .but here I am doing it anyway.

Two large glass shower panels. One will sit on the curb, one will sit on a granite built-in shower bench (basically a really thick knee wall).

I don't want to drill holes in the curb, nor do I want to drill holes in the granite.

I don't want to use U-channel. . .I prefer the looks of clamps.

1) Can adhesive/epoxy be used on the granite/curb clamps rather than drilling holes for the clamps?

2) What type of clamp should be used to account for (possibly) out of plumb walls?

3) How do you line the clamps up to insure that, after securing them to the wall/floor/whatever, the glass fits in without binding?

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makethatkerdistick
06-27-2019, 07:04 PM
Jack, you'll have to do lots of reading to look at the different clamp types available. I did that but it wasn't easy as there are few websites that give an instructive course in frameless glass installation.

Here is a good starting point:
http://www.crlaurence.com/apps/contentloader/default.aspx?content=www.crlaurence.com/adv/shower_doors/index_us.html

Your clamps will have leeway within the cutout of the glass they support. Look at the cutout templates of the hinges in the above catalogue and you will see. That plus the important rubber seal between metal clamp and glass let you make the connection securely.

For clamps in the curb without penetration of waterproof layer look up the "stubbed screw method" by searching threads/posts on this site.

Once you have a better overview, we can address more detailed questions.

From one amateur to another: Yes, this can be done as a DIY project. You must, however, measure very precisely and know the hinge and clamp designs well.

I ordered all hinges and clamps and looked at them in person before I decided to submit my final glass measurements to the glass maker.

Elkski
06-28-2019, 06:20 AM
Wolf, can you estimate how much you saved as a % of installed price? I think I can post here without a hyjack.
I'm pricing my steam shower door currently. It's a simple doorway. 26 1/2" X 82 1/4" prices from 800-1300$ so far. The 800 is the self install CW 7000 framed door
with movable transome (150$) from Home depot. I always had 800$ in the budget for my glass. But initially I had a side glass to. I went with a smaller door to lower the cost plus better steamer efficiency. Plus the side glass would view the commode. I did think of a knee wall bulkhead.
My main issue isn't price but some of these companies are saying I can go euroglass with no frame in my steam shower. But CW rep suggested framed with continuous hinge.
I worry about filling up the room with moisture not the size of my steam generator. I worry about the yellow gunk growing in the plastic drip piece at the bottom and it's eventually needing replaced. Initial concept and as built. These euroglass glass guys say that they order the glass 5/16 smaller than the opening and the glass con come in at +/- 1/8". One local guy says there are 3 slots a day on a CNC machine at one company who can hold tighter tolerances. But at 50% increase. I just feel these glass door companies are making to much profit. I sure would hate to pay for 10 linear feet of glass.
I'm used to machine shops that can hold 0005" if I spec this. .02" is considered giving them slop. I took such car to make my tiles linear. Right now they are flat within 1/16" we will see if I can keep this up for bottom two rows. .

makethatkerdistick
06-28-2019, 08:38 AM
Teddy, I don't know much in terms of requirements and methods for sealing steam in a shower, unfortunately. But that vinyl door sweep will indeed gather gunk. I took mine off and couldn't be happier. In your case, that might not be possible. Intuitively, I'd advise against ordering any door from Home Depot. Just because... Haha. Don't have a good reason other than that.

I did two DIY frameless projects: one enclosure (panel, door, transom) and one simple wall-hinged door. For each I saved perhaps a couple hundred dollars each (maybe 15-30% of installed price, depending on bid). More importantly, it was the only way to get what I wanted. I had no luck with installers agreeing to my design. In turn, I spent numerous hours reading through catalogs and figuring out how parts would come together with clamps and hinges. I admit, it made me sweat more than once but it turned out nice.

The greatest relief was that I didn't have to worry about someone drilling through my waterproof layer on the curb. I ordered my glass from onedayglass.com (Peninsula Glass). Even with shipping it came in at a reasonable price.

Fast eddie part deux
06-28-2019, 09:44 AM
. I just feel these glass door companies are making to much profit.

I dont mean to beat you up, but thats the wrong attitude. Ask anyone here who installs tile for a living, they have overhead that has to be covered. Its great to do it yourself and save money ... we all do ... just dont criticize the contrsctor for making a living. One thing to remember ... if they measure wrong, or drop the glass and chip it ... their price includes a do-over at their expense.

advertguy2
06-28-2019, 10:40 AM
I've had my last two showers installed with no clamps and no channels. Similar situation to what you're describing with panels on top of benches etc...

They were set in place with silicone wedges and then the rest siliconed. Not many installers seem to do it since it likely takes more precise measuring to do it properly.

makethatkerdistick
06-28-2019, 02:57 PM
I think precise measurements are indispensable regardless whether one uses brackets or not. There are many scenarios imaginable where a bracket offers a more secure long-term attachment, e.g. a transom or a free-standing panel with a door hinged to it (glass-to-glass hinges). I would not rely on silicone alone in these situations.

JackQT
06-29-2019, 05:59 AM
Thank you, gentlemen.

I'm thinking I'll grab a sheet of 3/8 plywood to use as a template. That should get all my clamps 100% in place before the glass shows up.

I'm also thinking I'll use no-drill type clamps. The Z-Series CRL clamps don't require a hole, but the trade-off is the gap around the glass (between the glass and the wall) will be larger. I *think* that'll be okay for my application, since the glass won't get any direct spray from the shower.

Since some outfits use silicone only to hold the glass, I assume I could use that to hold the clamps in place, at least long enough to drill a screw hole in the tile?

speed51133
07-01-2019, 07:27 AM
What is your curb material? I used 3cm granite and just drilled about 75% of the thickness to epoxy fasteners into the granite for the glass channel. You could do the same for brackets.

Is your glass going to the ceiling? If so, adding brackets up there will give lots of support if you added a stud header when you had the ceiling open.