wet saw mystery [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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06-04-2019, 08:58 PM
And I was just talking this thing up. 7" sliding table diamondback (harbor freight): https://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-Heavy-Duty-Wet-Tile-Saw-with-Sliding-Table-64683.html It's cutting at an angle, about 1/16" off perpendicular over 12". The mystery:

It's not the fence on the sliding table. I can hold a square to it and it slides straight along the blade.
Don't think it's play in the table rollers. They're not all that loose. I can twist the table a bit as I slide it to compensate but it's not surprising that that would work.
This happens with the thicker denser porcelain tiles but much less or not at all with the cheaper thinner junk tile I got to experiment with.
Happens with the diamondback blade but less or not at all with the dewalt xp4 blade. Unfortunately, switching to the dewalt blade isn't an option: it cuts faster but very rough. I might use it on concrete pavers. The diamondback blade actually cuts really smooth.
I thought the table slide axis might be out of alignment with the blade making the blade twist to the side. Tweaked the rails, but that seemed to change nothing.
I checked some of the tiles I cut some time ago and they seem to have been cut straight so doesn't look like it always did this.
The cut is slightly curved. Maybe 1/32" or less but that may actually be the table twisting.

What can cause this? Is it the blade wearing? Can an old blade make a mostly straight but angled cut over 12"? I played with the saw, different blades, and different tiles and got the above but I could be mistaken about some of it.

Please help. Thank you.

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06-04-2019, 09:18 PM
When the blade starts to wear a little on one side more than the other, it'll go off track a little.

Get yourself a dressing stone and cut a few slices to expose the diamonds. That should get it cutting right again, if it isn't completely shot.

If you can't get a dressing stone, a brick will work sometimes.

06-04-2019, 09:52 PM
I've been slicing through pucks of set left over mortar. Try to get a few slices in every time I start cutting. Is that any good?

Should get a new blade but all I can get around here for 7" blades is ridgid and dewalt at the box stores.

06-04-2019, 10:14 PM
I just spent way to much time tweaking my slide rails on my 430$ diamondback. Does yours have 4 bolts mounting the rail? I found that even though the rail is an aluminum extrusion with a wing on it it can bend so check it for straightness with a long straight edge or the rail may be curved. Mine has 3 or 4 rollers.
But maybe it's the blades? I got mine cutting square but the blade is going side ways some amount. I can only check on the blade at table height so maybe 5-6" and it's out 1/32". I may try to get it closer. But it took 2 hours to hit squarness. All 4 holes are slotted so it's not easy to adjust it just a little. Although I got better at it.
The aluminum rails are going to wear so much faster than polished SS ones like DeWalt has.

Tool Guy - Kg
06-04-2019, 10:19 PM
Teddy, heads up.
Are you dictating into your phone? Your last three posts are reading wonky with weird spelling, grammar, and punctuation. They are hard to understand.


06-05-2019, 09:16 AM
Ok, it's not a mystery. The blade is worn and I'm an idiot because that seems really obvious now.

I'll try to sharpen the diamondback blade by cutting through cinder block and mortar pucks with reduced water. It has served me well. The dewalt blade cuts rough as hell, can it smooth out with the same treatment?

Also I called around and all I can get from local shops in addition to ridgid and dewalt blades is the lackmond beast blade. Is that any good? I did a search but just found one post saying it's "middle of the road." Since I like the cheapo brand from HF better than a name brand one for twice the price, I don't know what to think any more.

06-05-2019, 09:20 PM
You have Amazon where you live, right?

06-06-2019, 01:29 AM
Runout on the blade shaft could be the culprit, accentuated by dulling. This would be consistent with the curving you described.

Was playing with a cheap Rigid tile saw on display recently, table was decent, but the runout caused the blade to have over 1/8" of wobble.

06-06-2019, 06:14 AM
Jon: I do. Just being dumb and impatient trying to get an extra day of tiling in. Ordered the alpha porcellana yesterday.

Jesse: I have a dumb question, what do you mean by runout on the shaft? If the axis of rotation of the blade was rotating from the pressure against the tile, I'd expect it to cut crooked in the other direction. Out from the motor, not in towards it.

06-06-2019, 06:34 AM
My dewalt/pearl blade combo was doing this when cutting dense porcelain. What I did to combat the issue was to use the plunge feature (if your saw has it) to score a 1/16" cut and then follow through with a full cut to avoid the blade going 'off track.'

06-06-2019, 02:18 PM
There's either some slop or misalignment causing the issue. Which way it ends up cutting crooked can depend on a lot of factors. For example, If your blade has wobble from a sloppy bearing, as you contact the tile it would, as you said, bend away from the motor. In doing so it would be starting to cut slightly outside the line, but then as the back of the blade came into contact with this area, it would tilt the front of the blade inwards, and cause a crooked cut towards the motor with a slight curve in it.

Give your blade a wobble and see if it's solid.

06-19-2019, 04:02 PM
I may have messed up an Alpha Porcellana blade.

It was cutting great. Then I cut a 2' porcelain plank lengthwise and it started cutting slow but still clean and straight. Figured I dulled it, ran it through a cinder paver and a red brick a bunch of times. That sped it up but, just to make sure, I ordered a resin blade dressing stone (https://www.amazon.com/Raimondi-Diamond-Blade-Resin-Dressing/dp/B000NCVH70) and ran it through that 4-6 times for good measure. Tried some test cuts and now the blade chips on one side:
I know it's not the alignment because this is just the front of the blade. It actually chips corners going IN. Did I do something stupid? Can I fix this or did I ruin an expensive blade for good?

Edit: Some Lochmond Beast cuts for comparison:
And there is one prominent diamond sticking out on the edge of the rim on the left of the porcellana blade. Could this be causing all the chipping?

06-19-2019, 05:59 PM
For years I've used yellow fire bricks to expose the diamond on blades. 4-5 rips usually is enough to make a big difference.

06-19-2019, 07:21 PM
yes one diamond sticking out can be a problem... I had lots of chipping with my new pearl blade. but after 30-40 ' of cuts it is much better... I thought it would break in faster... I tend to shave off on one side of the blade so now it will go one way if I do a full depth cut.. but I have resorted to using the plunge feature and take a soft cut or 4 ( 1/8"- 3/16" deep) before cutting it all the way deep. I also am using a knife sharpening stone to dress my edge and it is looking like a factory edge but I do get a few deeper chips that still show but not so much.

07-10-2019, 08:28 AM
Is it a good idea to wear a dust mask while using a wet saw?

It cuts down the dust but a lot of the water that washes the dust away gets sprayed as mist that you still inhale. I've been using my saw in the garage for a while and there's a noticeable film of dust around it.

07-10-2019, 11:52 AM
I'd be more concerned about eye protection with a wet saw. You may inhale some droplets but the dust won't make it deep down into your lungs.