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10-28-2017, 05:54 PM
Got this based on some posts I have seen on here.

Question - should the tip which is secured with a set screw be fixed or should it have some play in it? Mine does and it seems as if the set screw isn't quite long enough?

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10-28-2017, 06:31 PM
Jason, I have one that's similar to that one, the cutting head on it looks the same, the handle is shaped a little different. Mine doesn't lock into place, it swivels a little like yours. When I first bought it, I wondered the same thing but I've never had a problem with it wandering off or moving when I cut pieces of glass. I've never used mine to cut tiles, I tinker with stained glass as a hobby.

10-28-2017, 06:43 PM
I wonder why that is. I should ask my sister-in-law who does glass mosaic as a hobby/side business and see what she uses. Though, looking at her work ( it's probably not very thick stuff that she does cut.

10-28-2017, 07:23 PM
The set screw fits loosely into a groove, it swivels to allow for tight curved radius' Practice on an actual piece of glass to get the feel for it. There are serveral otherd for straight line cutting.

10-28-2017, 08:46 PM
As stated it swivels a little to allow you to cut other than straight lines.

10-28-2017, 11:33 PM
I'm not sure about that, Jon. Unless maybe I'm using mine wrong. When scoring glass, the only thing you're touching is the handle. You are not touching or guiding the cutting head. So, when cutting a curve, you have to slightly rotate the handle as if it was all connected without any swivel to it. But, like I said, I've never had mine swivel while cutting causing me to get off my line.

The bottom part of the head is spring loaded and actually pushes up towards the handle about 1/16 inch when pressure is applied. But even when pushing on it like is needed when scoring, it's still allowed to swivel if it wanted to. It just doesn't want to when scoring. At least mine doesn't.

The handle holds oil and automatically oils the wheel. That may be why the head slides upward that 1/16. Might have something to do with the oiling.

I bought a couple extra cutting heads when I bought my cutter and even after making a few thousand cuts on stained glass, I'm still using the original cutting head and wheel.

10-29-2017, 04:21 AM
I do a fair amount of stained glass work and own a Toyo pistol grip cutter just like the one you linked.

The up and down spring action in the cutting head is used to open a channel to the lubricant reservoir. Every time you press down on the cuter a small amount of cutting oil will flow out of the reservoir to the cutting head. It can help to loosen the reservoir fill cap a bit if the oil isn't flowing quickly enough.

The swivel action in the cutting head allows you to follow curved guides when cutting glass. For example, it allows you to hold a french curve shaped guide against the glass with the cutting head swiveling as you move the cutter along the french curve. It makes it so that you don't have to be quite as precise in following the curve with your hand motion (the cutting head will do that for you because it swivels). This is also true for straight cuts when you use a guide. The swivel action gives your hand a bit more freedom to be off from a perfectly straight line.

For freehand cuts you should be able follow your lines even with the cutting head swiveling so long as you keep the cutter moving and hold it so that the cutting head is at a slight angle to the glass. The pistol grip handle is set up so that you can hold the grip nearly horizontal while the cutting head rides at an angle (not perpendicular) to the glass. Then the head will naturally swivel to follow the handle. It takes a bit of practice, but once you get it it's pretty easy.

10-29-2017, 10:43 AM
Thanks for the post, Warren. I was thinking the spring loaded action had to do with the oiling. Here is a pic of mine, very similar cutter that has the same TOYO cutting head.

10-29-2017, 01:25 PM
Warren, can you tell me what oil is recommended for the cutter? I have always used 3&1 oil but I wonder if it's too thick.

10-29-2017, 03:59 PM
Amazon's recommended was TBH I only cut one tile just to try it and it didn't seem to dispense any oil as I am sure it takes a while to work it's way down to the wheel.

10-29-2017, 05:33 PM
Same here. Some of the oil leaked out in my tool box but other than that I've never had to add any oil to the reservoir. It looks full and has for several years. That's why I wonder if 3 in 1 oil is too thick. If I haven't used it in a while, I usually will put a drop of oil on the wheel just to make sure it's getting oil.

I did do a little research online and someone said that 3 in 1 was okay and also kerosene and lamp oil was okay too.

I'll probably go ahead and order some of the oil from Amazon. I didn't realize they had a special oil for the cutters. Thanks for the link.

Edit; Also, I read that if you ever take the cutting head apart, don't remove the string (wick) that goes from the reservoir to the wheel. It's nearly impossible to get back in and you would end up having to get a new cutter or keep the reservoir empty and dip it in oil every few cuts. I suppose the oil would run out everywhere without the wick.

10-29-2017, 06:40 PM
Davy, I learned on the old-style wheel cutters and was taught to store the thing in a can or jar with the wheel end submerged in kerosene and to dip it back in there before every cut.

Ain't never had me one of them new-fangled swivel-head self-oilers. Maybe I should try one sometime, but most of my glass cutting is done by my local glass company.

10-29-2017, 08:27 PM
The Novacan is good cutting oil, but as others have mentioned you can use kerosene, or 3-in-1. I was taught by an "old timer" using a classic wheel cutter with no reservoir. You just pour a drop of oil onto a non porous surface (like glass) and dip your cutting wheel into the oil periodically.

I have a bottle of the Novacan that has lasted me several years because you use so little of it with each cut.

BTW, my preference is for stick style cutters rather than pistol grip cutters. Mine has a swiveling head and oil reservoir:

It's just a personal thing based on how I was taught. A good friend of mine never uses a stick, only a pistol grip, so whatever you like is best for you.

10-29-2017, 08:32 PM
I believe Paul uses his to cut tiles but I never have had any luck doing that so I use my tile saw with a glass blade. I tried to cut some 1/2 inch thick glass tiles once but I couldn't get the tiles to break on my score line. Kept wasting tiles so I quit. All my cutting has been on stained glass. Scores and snaps pretty easy.

10-29-2017, 08:41 PM
Yeah, I know several women that tinker with stained glass and they use the pistol grip because they don't have enough strength in their hands to use the pencil shaped cutter. Like you say, just personal preference.

Much cheaper on Amazon, I think I paid 35 bucks for mine at the local glass shop.