Fireplace Metal Latapoxy 310 [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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08-09-2017, 08:14 PM
Ok, so I have never set tile but I am pretty good at DIY projects. I've researched a bit and it sounds like latapoxy is the way I want to go. I plan on just getting the mini jar unit and applying the latapoxy with a small putty knife. Does this sound reasonable? They are just 2x4 marble mosaic tiles. See attached picture.
Should I do small dabs on each tile or trowel on the wall and then put them up? I really need some advice. I considered doing metal lath with thinset but I worry about the gap it will create.

Thanks for your help!

Again the reason I am not just using thinset is because I am covering some of the metal the fireplace.

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08-09-2017, 11:01 PM
Hi Stan

I would avoid spot bonding all together. while some may argue it has its place like setting tile baseboards or setting that last tile in a tight spot in the corner. the method was used by contractors to easily set tile level to one another. it is an incorrect way to set tile infact.

do you have a picture of the metal part of your fireplace? that could help getting you started with the right setup.

08-09-2017, 11:07 PM
Welcome, Stan. :)

If you want to use an epoxy bonding mortar and you want to use a Laticrete product, look at their Latapoxy 300 ( instead.

08-10-2017, 12:05 AM
As you can see I already put lath on. I plan on removing it if I can come up with a better solution. Heat n glo recommended an unmodified thinset, no lath or anything. I just didn't think that was really the "right" way to do it based on research on this forum. Latapoxy 300 is so freaking expensive. It's double what I paid for the tile.. A guy a Mapei suggested using the lath with a poly liquid to a poly mortar.

Tile & Stone Guild
08-10-2017, 03:46 AM
Epoxy is not needed with the wire. You do need wire on the whole area or it will crack along the drywall to metal line. You could also put 1/4 " cement board over the area. It will give a flatter surface to start with. If you use wire you need to skim coat and flatten it out first.

When doing mosaics you want to set and move on if you start building up they will droop and will triple your time . Thinset is fine for this.

08-10-2017, 09:40 AM
is that a zero clearance box to go with the unit or part of fireplace less optional trim ie doors screens ect? if you build out your tile can the unit slide forward?

08-10-2017, 10:03 AM
That is the fireplace without the the trim attached. You can't slide it forward because it is secured to the 2x4 under the greenboard. It is flush with the greenboard. Someone at a local tile shop said this would do the trick. What do ya'll think?

08-10-2017, 01:40 PM
If I end up tiling over the lath do I need to let the skim coat dry before attaching tile?

Tile & Stone Guild
08-10-2017, 02:17 PM
I would since its a small tile.

08-10-2017, 09:55 PM
You plan to butt the tile against the trim? Make sure you read about skim coating. You may need building paper under the lath and use type s mortar for the skim coat. It has lime mixed in and is used for jobs like this. Just a heads up before you do it with just thinset.

08-11-2017, 08:05 PM
What would you guys use to mark the tiles? Again, they are marble. I red somewhere that someone used a grease marker and it bled through.. That surprised me and what I was planning on using.

08-11-2017, 09:02 PM
i found a couple links from this forum talking about what youre doing or about to do.

ceramic tile over black fireplace (

stacked stone on drywall (

the last one talks about using thinset directly over the lath and then when the scratch coat is dry attach your tiles with a notched trowel.

i spent a bit of the day reading about this and ive only really heard of the type s mortar being used over lath. anyone out there on this forum back up using thinset directly over lath on drywall? is that acceptable?