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ScottinSoCal
04-08-2017, 12:12 PM
I was going to post a question, then decided I might as well throw them all in...

Question 1: New here, but not to tile (DIY/hobbyist), but new to showers. My house was built in 2003, and the contractor used a 2" thick mudwall for the shower walls. Badly, because it's leaking. I've gone the earmuffs/sledgehammer/cold chisel route for one wall, and it's been two weekends and I have one 3 foot section removed - and all my buckets full of debris and no place to put any more. And leaving me another 7 feet to go. Is there an easier way? Please tell me there's an easier way. I'm too old for this crap.

Question 2: I got standard concrete backer board and planned to use a brush-on membrane over the joints and screw holes. I've been seeing conflicting information that I should use it over all the cement board. Any tips from the pros?

Question 3: Layout. I started out with the idea of reproducing the pattern I used in my entry way. The entry is 12x12 tile with 3x3 sections of glass/stone mosaic. (attached picture "entry") and I really liked the entry when I was done, but the graphic of the shower (3' by 4' niche, clear glass shower door, 12x24 tiles, 6x6 mosaic) seems really - frenetic. I've come up with some alternate ideas, but I can't say I'm in love with any of them. I'd welcome opinions. (ShowerTile1 - 4) The wall height from the shower pan to ceiling is 90".

Question 4: I'm changing the mixer valve to a Moen U shower, so no valve knob cutout, but I still need a hole for the shower head pipe. Do any of you have any tips for how to drill a hole that matches up to a connector that's hidden behind tile and cement board? A diagram with measurements before the wall goes up, then cross my fingers and hope? Something a little more reliable?

Any tips or suggestions or advice is welcome. Floors are easy, showers are harder than I expected.

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Davy
04-08-2017, 12:51 PM
Hi Scott, welcome.

1. You've got the best tile substrate known to man with the mud walls. Your pan might be leaking but that just means the pan is rotted out if it's very old or maybe it wasn't installed correctly. Has nothing to do with the mud bed. Anyway, you can rent an electric chipping hammer from Home Depot that will help you remove the mud walls.

2. You will need a moisture barrier under the tiles. Either felt paper or poly on the studs before the CBU goes up or a membrane on the shower side of the CBU. You want to cover all the walls, not just the joints.

3. I like the entry layout but that's a question I would ask Mrs Scott. Her vote counts much more than mine. :)

4. Not sure I follow but that hole needs to be drilled before the CBU is nailed up sounds like to me. Careful measuring and marking of the CBU is the way I would go.

ScottinSoCal
04-08-2017, 01:12 PM
Thanks much. In order:

1. It's definitely the mudwall that's leaking - bad application, bad sealing, bad fitting of the plumbing bits, take your choice, but the wall studs I've exposed are a roadmap of the water that's gotten inside. I could see it as soon as I removed the trim ring around the mixer valve handle.

2. I planned to use a thick plastic film under the cement board.

3. No Mrs. Scott, just me and whatever I want to do. That's what let me make the horrible mistake of choosing the tile I used on the bathroom counters and that will be my next project to re-replace.

4. OK, I get it. Part of what I do professionally is figuring out all the ways things can go horribly wrong, and this one just rang all the alarm bells.

jadnashua
04-08-2017, 05:04 PM
What can help is to install a longer nipple in the fitting for the showerhead so that it sticks out straight. Measure carefully, and cut your hole. Holes are fairly easy in cbu, but are MUCH tougher without proper tools in tile. Since you probably wont' be doing this again, you can probably get by with a cheap diamond core bit the proper size. Don't make it too small. Most of the core bits do not have a center bit, so you need to be creative to keep the thing from walking all over the place. One way to do that is to cut a piece of plywood with the same sized wood holesaw, then position that over the tile and clamp in in place, then use the diamond core bit, using the piece of ply as a drill guide. You can freehand it, but it take a bit more skill to get the hole started without it walking all over. The magic to keeping a diamond core bit from becoming trash quickly is that you go slow, light pressure, and keep it wet to cool it down. You're more grinding a hole than cutting one like you would with a wood bit - you'll be making dust, not chips, while cutting the hole.

Davy
04-08-2017, 05:25 PM
Yes, and using the plywood that has a hole in it helps hold the water in. It's the way to go. :tup2:

ScottinSoCal
04-17-2017, 05:21 AM
I think I already know the answer to this, but I'll ask anyway - maybe I'm missing something obvious.

This is a weekends-only project for me, and there's literally hundreds of pounds of demo debris. It's going to be at least another month, and I have a typical (tiny) California back yard. Where do I store this stuff until I can rent a truck and haul it all off? And does anyone have a better method of getting this hauled down a flight of stairs and outside? I've been using Lowe's buckets. I looked at my wheelbarrow, but there's no way I'd get that around the turns on the stairs once I loaded it up with concrete.

Carbidetooth
04-17-2017, 07:36 AM
Might check with your local trash pickup folks. I get dumpsters delivered to job sites. Any room at curb, driveway etc?

You may have to store in buckets and pay it out a little each week in your regular trash?

Most municipalities have some facility to accommodate this.

MisterJJ
04-17-2017, 09:16 AM
I was in the same place as you a few weeks ago. I picked up a Bosch demolition/rotary hammer drill for $180 at home depot and a 2" chisel bit to break things up. I broke out the chicken wire as I went and just folded up the chicken wire and put it in paper grocery bags. I used plastic contractor clean-up bags to haul the rest of the debris downstairs. I would double the bags then re-use the outer as the inner for the next haul so I always had a fresh bag on the outside to prevent leaks.

Luckily I have a dumpster at work that I dump my stuff into a little at a time.

ZZZK
04-17-2017, 01:29 PM
Rent a bin and then bucket brigade down the stairs. That is not that much debris at all. A bucket full is already about as heavy as you want to carry down stairs. What I did on my second floor (which has a balcony) is I would lower buckets on ropes with a carabiner. Wear gloves and don't have your receiver stand under the bucket when you lower in case anything goes wrong. You can line up buckets and make quick work of getting them down without scaling stairs up and down. Have gravity do the hard work :).

Davy
04-17-2017, 05:10 PM
Yeah, I've never seen a wheelbarrow that will go down steps but surely someone has invented one. :) A chipping hammer, tin snips, gloves and buckets is about the best way to get it down although I have also used the rope/pulley method John mentioned.

I did have a homeowner buy one of those big trash bags that you put out by the curb. I believe one of the big box stores had it. The bag was about 4-5 ft wide and at least 6 ft long. It held 3300 lbs and when you get it full, you call the company to come pick it up. I don't remember the name of the company but surely you have something similar in So. Cal

ScottinSoCal
04-17-2017, 06:48 PM
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll check them out (that haul-away bag reminds me I saw a commercial for it and forgot I saw it). And there's an oversized window over the tub I could remove the screen from to lower the buckets. This could work. I've got four buckets and a bunch of cement to clean up.

And today I started getting quotes for the electrical. I'm installing an electronic shower controller (Moen U Shower) and for some reason they didn't put an outlet in the toilet closet. I need an outlet run. After I do a little reframing in the plumbing wall.

Shady at Best
04-18-2017, 03:49 AM
Hi Scott. I am in ca. also and have never seen outlets in water closets/ toilet rooms to be a standard thing. The only times that I have seen them is when there is a electronic bidet.

I would recommend a 4-5 inch angle grinder with a diamond blade on it if you ever find yourself in this situation again.
I run a vacuum in one hand, or my helpers hand, and then cut the tile, mortar, chicken wire, sheet rock into manageable squares. Then rip them off the walls. You will have a shower that size torn out in 45 mins.
Just kidding, but you will have it out in a few hours.
Good luck.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

DopeyRunr
04-18-2017, 05:47 AM
Like Davy mentioned, we have one of the Waste Management Bagsters out by our curb. They take up some room, and there are some rules about how close it can be to potential overhead obstructions, but for $30 for the bag, and $125 in our area to remove it, it was a much better/easier deal than trying to squirrel out more than a thousand pounds of construction debris week-by-week in our normal weekly pickup.

ScottinSoCal
04-21-2017, 11:35 AM
Yeah, I was being sarcastic about the electrical outlet. ;)

I checked into it and found that my HOA won't let me use one of the haul-away curb bags. Looks like truck rental and spare garbage cans for me.

ScottinSoCal
04-28-2017, 06:34 AM
Not actually tile related, but sorta, a little bit. Maybe.

I'm installing both a shower head and a handheld shower wand. I'm clear on all the parts up to where the 1/2" brass elbow inside the wall gets connected to the wall elbow inside the shower stall. What connects the two? My local Lowe's sells galvanized nipple pipes in 1/2" increments, I could probably find one close to the right length, but does the shower elbow have to be screwed tight? Should I be looking for a trim ring to put under it (to absorb any slop)?

I've never had a shower with a diverter valve before, so my installation will be the first time I've seen one.

Kman
04-28-2017, 07:06 AM
They just screw in. There should be one with the shower head and valve you purchased. I've never seen one without it. Or you can buy one at Lowe's.

Is this the part you're referring to?

https://m.lowes.com/pd/AquaSource-Brushed-Nickel-Shower-Arm-and-Flange/4764492

cx
04-28-2017, 07:09 AM
Scott, you're gonna need to tell the folks specifically what shower plumbing you intend to use to get useful response, I think. A link to the unit you have and/or some photos would help.

Only comment I'd make is that you don't wanna be using any galvanized or black iron nipples anywhere in that rig. Get brass nipples for use anywhere in that part of your plumbing.

My opinion; worth price charged.

ScottinSoCal
04-28-2017, 08:06 AM
I'm changing it all out to a Moen U Shower - I didn't mention it because it's brand new, all electronic, and my co-worker in the next office giggles every time she hears me say anything about this shower remodel.

"A wifi shower? Seriously? You're installing an electronic wifi shower?"
Yes, I am.

The electronic valve just has a 1/2" outlet. I bought a Kohler 1/2" wall elbow, because I figured the finish would be a close match to what's on the Kohler shower door that started this whole mess. From the valve to the elbow inside the shower is all me, and as I said earlier, I've never even showered where there was a diverter valve, let alone installed one.

https://www.moen.com/u

https://www.moen.com/u/support.html

http://www.us.kohler.com/us/Awaken-wall-mount-supply-elbow/productDetail/shower-fittings/1005275.htm

ScottinSoCal
04-28-2017, 08:27 AM
And thanks for the tip re: brass nipples. In my day job I work with stuff where we have to worry about galvanic reaction in mixed metals, and intermetallic layers. I was worried about a brass elbow in conjunction with a galvanized iron pipe.

cx
04-28-2017, 08:50 AM
I'd replace as much of the iron piping as possible, too, while you're at it.

'Fraid I know nothing at all about electronic showers and will wait for others to comment on that.

ScottinSoCal
04-28-2017, 08:56 AM
There's no iron pipe ATM. The house was built in 2003, and it's all PEX. I've been going over everything I could find it, because I'm used to sweated copper, and the idea of flexible plastic tubing made me nervous. I now have the crimping tools and the assistance of someone who has done this before if my own efforts end up in blood and tears.

cx
04-28-2017, 09:17 AM
Having pulled too much copper out of too many concrete SOG foundations or re-routed same through walls and attics, I'm a large fan of the new PEX tubing. I do prefer the PEX-Al-PEX versions, but have used a bit of the single-wall, as well.

My favorite was Kitec until they were forced out of business and am currently using Viega, which I like a bit less. I now have a collection of PEX tools sufficient to fund my retirement if I could only find a buyer. :D

ScottinSoCal
04-29-2017, 04:03 PM
This just keeps getting better. Today I rented a truck, got all the cement and tile hauled downstairs and into that and taken to the dump. It's my first clear look at the whole shower base. And I find that it was cracked/broken when it was originally installed and the "fix" was to cake some kind of epoxy all over the crack. Not down in the pan, it's in the back corner of the mounting flange. Now I'm facing a choice.

Do I trust the fix and work around it? The epoxy is built up so thick it's going to affect the way the backer board installs. Or do I spend more money (none of this shower redo was planned) and replace the base? And if I do that, do I get another fiberglass base, or do I hire someone to do a real one that I can tile? How much does that even cost? And how long does it take? I've been without a shower in my bathroom since the 25th of last month. If I do it without replacing the pan it's going to be another month. Do I want to drag it out more? No, I really don't. But will I regret not doing this when I had a chance?

What kind of price am I looking at if I do a new concrete pan? The current pan is 34" deep by 48" wide. If I had it custom, I'd like to increase the depth by another 6", to make it 40" deep. What say the experts?

ETA: I poked to goop in the corner, and it turns out that it's just silicone. Fully cured, but still just silicone.

rmckee84
04-29-2017, 05:35 PM
Most of us are going to say tear it out. Its just hard to say if it will hold, then if it doesn't hold it will make things more difficult in the future...
Prices will differ by location. If I were to just pack and waterproof the pan I'd be somewhere around $500 labor and material. That doesn't include installing any tile.

jadnashua
04-29-2017, 10:42 PM
Deck mud is like wet beach sand. You can shape it. It's super cheap. It's heavy. If you mess up, the second time is usually much better. A conventional shower is likely the least expensive version you can make, but IMHO, it's not the best. The alternatives do cost more, and a well-done conventional shower will work fine. Showers are not rocket science, but they are very detail oriented...mess up one detail, and you can have a problem.

Davy
04-30-2017, 07:47 AM
Like Ryan said, I'd remove the shower base. There are many different approved installation methods and they all will give you a long lasting shower if installed correctly. I agree that 34 inches is too narrow. You'll be glad you opened it up some.

Just keep all your questions here on this thread and we can help you along the way.

If you have a chipping hammer rented and you decide to remove the base and install a tile shower base, go ahead and chip away the concrete around the drain. The drain will need to be changed out.

ScottinSoCal
04-30-2017, 08:38 AM
If the bathroom was on the first floor of a house with a slab foundation, I might chance doing this myself. On the second floor - and with my shower right over my kitchen - there's no way. I've mixed and set concrete exactly once in my life, as a small base for a fountain in my backyard. I've looked at videos on YouTube and that was about as much concrete as I trust myself to do.

I'm not optimistic about this. I just had an electrician out to quote me to install two outlets. I know electrical, I've been doing it since before I could drive. The whole job is an hour of work, and that includes mounting the new boxes. Everything is accessible, two holes to drill, and the attic access is less than 10 feet from both source and destination - $933 was the quote. I literally burst out laughing when the guy told me, it was just so completely beyond anything reasonable. This is why I DIY what I can do, and tend to skip the things I can't do.

ScottinSoCal
04-30-2017, 01:45 PM
OK, I found someone who quoted me $750 for the pan, at 40x48. Materials included. If, when he comes to see it (so far he's only seen a photo that I texted to him) the price stays constant, I'm thinking for that price I could pull the trigger.

Is there anything I should ask him to make sure he knows what he's doing? I saw some online photos of jobs he says he did, and it's pretty much exactly what I want done. Are there tests I should tell him I want done? I've seen something online where the drain gets plugged and the shower pan filled with water, then you see if the level goes down after 24 hours. Should I do that? Or have him do that? Anything else?

Someone earlier said shower pans aren't rocket science, which is sorta funny. If this shower was getting shot into space I'd know exactly what to check for. I'm feeling very out of my depth in my own bathroom, and I don't like it.

rmckee84
04-30-2017, 03:06 PM
It depends on what kind of pan he is doing.
Traditional pan with preslope, liner, clamping drain, and top bed
Topical waterproofing on a mud bed with bonding flange drain
Hot mop which is popular in California

arthall111
04-30-2017, 05:57 PM
Rent a bin and then bucket brigade down the stairs. That is not that much debris at all. A bucket full is already about as heavy as you want to carry down stairs. What I did on my second floor (which has a balcony) is I would lower buckets on ropes with a carabiner. Wear gloves and don't have your receiver stand under the bucket when you lower in case anything goes wrong. You can line up buckets and make quick work of getting them down without scaling stairs up and down. Have gravity do the hard work :).



Line up buckets??



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ScottinSoCal
04-30-2017, 06:21 PM
I wound up with 6 buckets from Lowe's, and got the truck this weekend to haul it all away. Today I got all the framing modified to hold the electronic valve. Next on the agenda is starting the plumbing (cut-off valves for water feed lines) while I'm seeing about the new shower pan. Hopefully that won't create too much of a delay.
The up side to all this is that I already have two weeks scheduled for the end of this shower window, so I'll be able to switch from weekends-only to just pushing through.

ScottinSoCal
05-01-2017, 11:21 AM
At last, something (2 things, really) went exactly as planned on this. Reframing for the valve and shelves is all done, and the PEX fittings that had made me nervous worked exactly as advertised. It makes tweaking my back and not being able to stand today worth it.

ScottinSoCal
05-07-2017, 06:46 PM
Now for the part I actually like - the build.
Reframing was more than I thought it would be. The door support studs installed by the contractor were both completely broken out at the bottom and swinging free - no support at all except the nails through the header. I cross-braced them from behind. The crimper I got for the PEX plumbing worked exactly as advertised. The electronic shower valve had a small glitch. They didn't think through the installation process when they designed it. They require - their installation video shows - sweating adapters onto the outlet pipes to mate with the PEX. But the retainer ring they supply is plastic, so it can't be left on when you're soldering. And the hole in the center is too small to fit over the barrel of the adapter after it's soldered on. I cheated. Measured the thickness of the adapter wall, ground it down a cuple mils using a bench grinder, then made up the difference by using a dremel and a cone grinder bit to increase the size of the hole in the ring by a couple mils. Next weekend I start putting up cement board. And I got over my fear of the elbow for the hand shower by putting it together and measuring the assembled depth from ears to tile mating surface (2.75"), then adding up the wall depth, probable thinset thickness, tile thickness, and figured I'd be somewhere around 2.5mm short to a full thread seat, but that was without plumber's tape on the threads. I think I'll be fine.
I don't know if I followed procedure to mount the elbow for the shower head. It looks like the usual thing is to just mount it to a 2x4 brace inside the wall chase, but that would lose me about an inch of length in the shower, and I didn't want that. I built a little framing box to bring the front of the elbow to just flush with the inside surface of the cement board.
Anyway, this is where I am now. Oh, and I decided against the staggered layout I'm now doing just a plain grid pattern, with a horizontal stripe of mosaic at the 48" height. It'll line up with the bottom niche, and I think it'll look better in the long run.

ScottinSoCal
05-23-2017, 06:41 PM
I have the next two weeks off, so I'll be able to crank out the rest of this shower before I go back to work. I discovered tile leveling systems, and I think I'm a little bit in love with whoever thought this up. I'm closer to being able to shower in my own bathroom.

Victor DiMichina
05-24-2017, 12:53 AM
I have the next two weeks off, so I'll be able to crank out the rest of this shower before I go back to work. I discovered tile leveling systems, and I think I'm a little bit in love with whoever thought this up. I'm closer to being able to shower in my own bathroom.


Glad it's coming together.

I too have the next couple weeks off. Finishing my kids' bathroom tub surround with kerdi, 6x24 field. Ditra floor waterproof w/kerdiband.

Question on your levelers: which brand is that. Looks a lot like the tile supply shop recommended when I ordered tile today. Sounds like you're happy with them.


Vic (mobile)

ScottinSoCal
05-24-2017, 06:15 AM
The ones I got are called Spin Doctor - got them from Amazon at the last minute. I picked the 1/8" spacers (black) but I'm thinking I should have gotten the 1/16" (white) instead. Oh well, what's done is done.
I haven't had to be so freaked about getting exactly the same amount of thinset on the wall and back-butter of the tile, because these things crank down and bring everything even.

ScottinSoCal
05-26-2017, 08:51 AM
Today should be the last day of tiling. Although my tile saw died yesterday - sort of. The blade is completely dulled, and when I tried to put the new blade on I found the whole blade mount was corroded solid and there was no way to do it. I can't complain, it cost me $100 about 20 years ago, and I'm pretty sure I got my $100 worth. I went yesterday and picked up a replacement saw with the same diameter blade, so now I've got a new saw and a replacement blade that fits when this one goes dull.
I've been through about half a dozen layouts for the niches, but I finally settled on just making it match the tile layout. A laser level is letting me match up the seams, and the bullnose tile is giving me finished edges. The laser level is the "one new tool" that I always allow myself for a project, the new tile saw put me over my budget. :(
Now I'm just watching Doctor Who reruns until 9:00, when I can go upstairs and start making noise. I don't want to bother the neighbors.

ScottinSoCal
05-26-2017, 09:13 AM
By the way: Thanks to jadnashua for the tip on the plywood. I modified it a bit, but it worked great to drill the holes.
1" diamond bit to drill, a piece of lumber below the tile to cushion and protect my bathroom floor (where I was drilling) and a stick of 1x3 lumber with a 1 1/8 hole drilled into it as a guide. Tape over the tile area to be drilled, mark the tape, position the 1x3 so the hole is centered where I need it and clamp everything together in a sandwich, then fill the hole with water and start with the diamond bit. That perfectly cut every hole, my bit didn't overheat and the mess was a lot more manageable than what I had planned - tiles down to the workshop and use stationary drill press, figuring out how to spray water and not ruin my drill press.

rmckee84
05-26-2017, 09:13 AM
Keep in mind you should regularly dress diamond blades. Many guys use cinder blocks and other various abrasives, personally I like to use rubi and montolit dressing stones. The blade will glaze over especially when used on hard porcelain, dressing a blade will expose the diamonds giving your blade new life. Many times even a new blade will benefit from dressing before cutting anything.

ScottinSoCal
05-26-2017, 09:23 AM
I've sat in many meetings where they talked about dressing the blade on the dicing machines (my company has a lab where they dice semiconductor wafers) to reduce edge chipping on the die, but I have no idea what that means or looks like. I guess I should go into the dicing lab and watch what they do.

ScottinSoCal
05-26-2017, 09:57 AM
One more question, in a "it's too late to do anything about it" kind of way.

I extended the tile out onto sheetrock, with a 3" bullnose tile border. The bathroom wall paint is semigloss, which offers poor adhesion, so I thought Why not, and used the waterproofing cloth and liquid membrane out onto the paint. The bullnose is 3" wide, I taped off at 2.5", and it seems to be working all right. You know, with the 2 days it's been up. It's outside the shower area, so I'm not worried about water intrusion, this is just decorative. Am I going to be dealing with popped tiles down the road? Have I made a horrible mistake?

rmckee84
05-26-2017, 10:01 AM
Sounds like you should be fine.

ScottinSoCal
05-26-2017, 01:16 PM
WOOHOO! Tiling is done! The shower has been unusable since March 25th, but I'm finally seeing a light at the end of the tunnel.

Cleanup
Wait for thinset to set
Grout
Install shower control
Install shower door

Then I'm done.

Victor DiMichina
05-26-2017, 09:08 PM
I'm on the same timeline as you, except I started late October, finished 2 bathroom vanities, electrical, plumbing, drywall by 2nd week of December. Then stopped. Xmas, busy times at work, and I'm just getting back to finishing the tub and tile in one of the bathrooms. (Bathrooms were finished and functional other than the kids tub). Soooooo...don't feel bad. =))

Congratulations it looks like it's coming together nicely

Vic (mobile)

ScottinSoCal
05-27-2017, 05:45 AM
OK, your question makes me nervous, so I'm going to piggyback on your thread.

This is the thinset I used for my shower tile:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/MAPEI-Ceramic-50-Pound-S-Gray-Powder-Thinset-Mortar/3743807

It says it's "Polymer modified mortar", which is what I assume people mean when they talk about modified or unmodified mortar. Do I need to wait longer to grout this shower? I've been laying tile up till yesterday, and it's laid right on the liquid membrane.

Tool Guy - Kg
05-27-2017, 09:47 AM
Scott, your question isn't likely related to the other question about Ditra. So I've moved it off onto its own thread to help avoid confusion.

Ok, tell us briefly how you constructed your shower and what liquid membrane you're referring to.

:)

ScottinSoCal
05-27-2017, 10:50 AM
Tore everything out to the studs, Durock over those, joints taped & mortared, Mapei AquaDefense over that, Mapei modified thinset over that, porcelain tile (12x24) over that. Using Mapei Flexcolor CQ (is it obvious my neighborhood store is Lowes?) grout, because that's the only kind they had in Charcoal. It says it's safe for a shower if I let it cure 3 days before it gets wet.

cx
05-27-2017, 12:13 PM
Scott, since you already have a project thread for this shower I've combined your new thread there. Please keep all the project questions here so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered.

The customary wait time between setting and grouting is a minimum of 24 hours. With those large format tiles, it's a good idea to give it a little extra time.

My opinion; worth price charged.

ScottinSoCal
05-27-2017, 12:26 PM
Well, I started tiling 5 days ago, but didn't finish the last of it till yesterday, right about this time. So I'll push the grout out another day and do it tomorrow. But that finish line is so close I can almost touch it, and I want my shower back.

cx
05-28-2017, 12:19 PM
Yeah, everybody wants their shower back, Scott, but the price for too-early use of such new showers can be pretty high.

Patience will be your friend here. :)

My opinion; worth price charged.

ScottinSoCal
05-29-2017, 08:45 AM
The grout went in, then I took the day and drove up the coast to take my mind off things. This morning I looked it all over. Like all projects, there are things I wish had turned out better. The problem of making do with the tools I have instead of the tools I wish I had but can't spend the money to get. Overall, though, I'm happy with the way it came out. The caulk is a good match for the quartz grout. The're one short section of grout line that came out strange, for reasons I can't figure out. Just kind of... lumpy. But the rest look great. As it's cured it's gone darker, and it's the color I wanted. Today I'll unbox the shower door and haul the parts upstairs, to install tomorrow. Then Wednesday there will be shower.

And thanks again for the tip about the drill guide. When I mounted the electronics for the shower it came in handy again. And I've saved the board I used to drill the holes for the shower door mount.

Davy
05-29-2017, 10:29 AM
Scott, some showers we build have several shampoo boxes, a seat, mosaic designs, etc. Sometimes it'll take 2-3 weeks to tile it. And yes, the folks are wanting me out of their house so they can have their bathroom back. I usually tell them that after using it a few times, it won't matter how long it took, just that the job was done right and that it will last a long time. :)

Post a pic when you get it all done.

ScottinSoCal
05-29-2017, 03:34 PM
Not all done - door will be on tomorrow - but this is where I am so far. The door is a frameless clear glass one, so it'll all be on display.

Davy
05-29-2017, 08:28 PM
Nice looking shower.:tup2:

jpinkerton
05-29-2017, 09:34 PM
I had never heard of the Moen U until your post about it. Would love to hear your thoughts on it, everything looks great!

ScottinSoCal
05-30-2017, 05:00 AM
Moen just released it at CES this year (Consumer Electronics Show). Not having used it, I'm happy with the specs - it measures the water temperature 50 times a second and adjusts the valves to maintain the set temperature. Sort of like a posi-temp valve, but electronic. There are other brands that make something like it, but this is the only one I found with a battery backup, so it can be used if the power goes out. I'm only a couple of miles from the beach and our power lines are all underground, and it goes out a couple of times a year.

It also works as a diverter. I got one with 2 outlets and I'm using one for the main shower head and one for a hand shower. They also make one with four outlets so you can add a second shower head, body sprays, or whatever.

They're talking about making it compatible with my voice controller, which would be nice. I could tell it to turn the shower on, the shower will run till it comes up to temperature, then pause till I get in. If I take too long shaving or whatever, it'll run short blasts to maintain the temperature till I un-pause it.

The only glitch I've had with it was the setup. To get it fully configured you have to connect it to an app you run on your phone, and I have an Android running the pre-release version of their latest - it wouldn't connect. I borrowed an iPhone from someone else and configured it through that. Once it was all set up, it showed up on my phone, too. The joys of the cloud.
Oh, and physically installing it. Their installation video shows using standard PEX adapters, but they're wrong. The retaining ring for the outlet nipples is too small to go over the PEX adapter, and it's plastic, so you can't leave it on when you sweat the adapter onto the nipple. After I'd done something else involving a bench grinder and a dremel, I saw a review video online where they'd used push-on Sharkbite adapters. Those wouldn't create the problem I had.

ScottinSoCal
05-30-2017, 10:29 AM
The shower door is in, and silicone setting up. Now I count down the final 24 hours before I can step in and take it for a test drive. No pictures because the door is all taped up, fingerprints everywhere, and propped open. Tomorrow, after the shower.

For the novices, a lesson learned: While you're studying the installation instructions, take a second out to look at the parts, too. That way you won't look at the handle you just permanently mounted to the shower door and realize that the manufacturer printed their name on it - and that you just installed it upside down. I decided that if anyone ever comments on it, I'll ask them why they were snooping in my bathroom, then tell them to get out of my house.

jpinkerton
05-30-2017, 10:52 AM
I think when we do our master bath remodel I'll see what wife thinks of that Moen. Congrats on the completion!

ScottinSoCal
05-30-2017, 01:42 PM
Well, I got it cleaned up enough that I took some pictures. Ignore the mess you can see in the reflection on the door. Usually I'm very clean, but I haven't even been able to run my vacuum robot for two weeks - too much crap in the way, and it'd have hysterical fits.
One screw stripped out on the shower door, but a call to Kohler has a replacement on the way, and a spare just in case (according to the rep I talked to). In the mean time, it's in and it opens and closes. I can't ask for more. Cleaning the base will happen tomorrow, when I can run water in it.

ScottinSoCal
05-31-2017, 10:07 AM
First shower this morning, and it feels weird. Like showering at a hotel. But nice.

Now that it's all done, I'm glad I did it, and even more glad I'm done.