mud pan repair... [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

PDA

View Full Version : mud pan repair...


beedees
01-17-2017, 11:20 AM
getting closer to the end of a long (and painful shower project) and am looking for some ideas. First off, 32x60 ", mud pan, Durock walls-yes, will be using Redgard, 7' ceiling height( has an alcove ceiling). Been thinking about MAYBE using Formica, but not sure how to adhere. I have used FRP before on another project with zero problems, but am restricted in choice of colors, etc. Concerned about the weight of tile+mortar plus the difficulty of install. Anybody have any thoughts on this subjecy? Thanks

Sponsored Links


rmckee84
01-17-2017, 01:10 PM
What do you mean you are concerned about the weight of tile and mortar? Installing tile on a ceiling isn't nearly as difficult as it may seem.

beedees
01-17-2017, 04:07 PM
bad back, knees, shoulder. etc. This d%#$* thing has been a disaster from the word go. Just got through w/ a regrout and my give-a-s^&$ is broke. Just looking for the easiest way through this minefield.

rmckee84
01-17-2017, 05:10 PM
If it's not a steam shower just do drywall on the ceiling, or frp. I guess I don't understand exactly what your looking for. If you're wanting to know your options, usually it's tile or drywall. If you come up with something else that will work then by all means go for it.

beedees
02-07-2017, 01:57 PM
what I have now
durock

redgard
ready for tile on shower walls, but whats the best thin-set? Thanks

rmckee84
02-07-2017, 02:24 PM
What kind of tile?
What size?
What brands are available to you?

beedees
02-07-2017, 03:07 PM
12x12
Lowes and Home Depot

rmckee84
02-07-2017, 05:32 PM
Well each Lowe's and HD carries different stuff it seems, so I guess whichever modified thinset you choose. If you go to HD and they have pro-lite that would probably be my first choice.

MAPEI - Technical Service
02-09-2017, 03:04 PM
Dan, since you have a Lowes near you, I would steer you towards one of our Lowes products.

Ceramic Tile Mortar (http://www.mapeihome.com/ceramic-tile-mortar#categoryID=36) (if the tile is a high porosity ceramic 12x12)
Porcelain Tile Mortar (http://www.mapeihome.com/porcelain-tile-mortar#categoryID=36) (if the tile is a low porosity porcelain 12x12)

beedees
02-12-2017, 11:29 AM
couple of dumb questions
2"x2" tiles-when cutting, try to cut the sheet
, or peel of and cut one at a time?
is this what is even the tile to use? Searching here seems to show mesh is for back-splashes. Totally new ground I'm covering here. BTW, ceramic tile.

Davy
02-12-2017, 12:16 PM
Hi Dan. You can use the tiles with the mesh on the back on a shower floor. Whenever possible I will run the whole sheet thru the saw. It will make straighter cuts that will line up better and be faster to install. But, some of the glues that they use to hold it together is water based and running it thru the saw might cause all the tiles to come off the mesh. If you find that the glue is water based, you will probably have to pull the tiles off and cut them individually.

Lazarus
02-12-2017, 12:18 PM
If it's going in a shower floor, that is actually the preferred tile to use.

If the sheets are held together with something that is waterproof....in other words, the tiles don't fall off when wet, probably easier to cut them while on the sheet. Certainly easier to lay them intact, although you may still need to separate some of them when cutting around the drain, etc. :wave:


(Wow, Davy...you're fast today)

Davy
02-12-2017, 12:33 PM
Laz, I'm a two finger chicken pecker, a pretty fast chicken pecker. :) But, I probably had a head start. :)

beedees
02-20-2017, 05:45 AM
this right. Durock shower walls taped seams and corners. Wiped down w/ damp sponge, let dry-3:1 wash-primer-let dry. Top-coat film-thickness .o30, probably two coats. How long do I have between Redgarding and actually tiling. Their site says 72 hrs. max exposure to UV, but nothing about inside time. Thanks ( if it seems like I seem s like I'm over my depth here, it's cause I probably am) Thanks

Shady at Best
02-20-2017, 02:01 PM
Sounds like you did it correctly. I always thought it was ready to tile once it turned red..
I have never waited 72 hours. Uh oh

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

beedees
02-20-2017, 02:30 PM
how long do you have to get the tile up? I'm pretty slow. I'm terrified of speeding glaciers.

Davy
02-20-2017, 02:50 PM
You only want to spread enough thinset that you can get covered within 5 minutes, even less in warm temps, etc. You want the thinset to be wet when you set the tiles into it, not skimming over. So you need to work fairly fast, no coffee breaks.

The Redgard will buy you time because it will keep the CBU from setting up the thinset so fast. I like to have everything ready to go. If I'm going to tile 2 rows at a time, I'll measure up and put a few lines, doesn't have to be perfect, just a few short lines so you know how far up to spread the thinset.

Get the thinset covered with tile and get the tiles adjusted before the thinset starts to firm up. Some tiles will absorb the moisture out of the thinset fairly fast, others like porcelain and glass will give you more time. After tiling that section, I like to place a level on top and do any minor adjusting to get the tiles up against the level. This is why I'd much rather use the plastic wedges than the spacers.

Shady at Best
02-20-2017, 03:29 PM
And I believe you have all the time in the world to set the tile after the red gard has died.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Tool Guy - Kg
02-20-2017, 07:32 PM
...after the red gard has died. If the RedGard dies, you probably should.....oh, wait. That's a typo. :D


First of all, it's not "probably two coats", it most definitely is two coats. Second, as soon as the RedGard turn to a solid red (no remaining pink color), you're ready for the second application. As soon as that second coat turns solid red, you're ready to tile.

:)

prodjsaig
02-20-2017, 08:54 PM
the instructions say to tile within 7 days as well

jadnashua
02-20-2017, 09:08 PM
The surface is a little sticky, even once dried, so leaving it up too long could end up with it getting a coating of dust and create a bond breaker. There may be other reasons, but that's one of them. Get a wet film thickness gauge and verify your coats are between the min/max. Check various places, as people tend to not apply it evenly depending on how far they have to bend over.

beedees
02-25-2017, 09:46 AM
I see that sanded will go in 1/8" tile spacing but use unsanded in less. Shower floor has 1/32" spacing-1/8" on walls. Will unsanded be o.k. for the walls too? I'll be using Mapei Ker acolor cementious grout Thanks

Davy
02-25-2017, 10:35 AM
Is the floor tile different than the wall tiles?

I don't like unsanded in 1/8 joints. It's hard to keep the joints full and it tends to crack in places as it dries. If you do use it, mix it stiffer than you usually would.

beedees
02-25-2017, 12:41 PM
so it's unsanded in floor, sanded in walls. thanks

Lazarus
02-25-2017, 03:45 PM
I recently went through a screwed up job of 1700 sq. ft. of wood-look ceramic tile. The lady wanted to use an unsanded grout in 1/8" joints on the floor.

The grout "bled" and changed colour in almost every area. We had to re-grout much of the floor to come anywhere CLOSE to her colour. I will NEVER use unsanded grout on a floor again.... :tazebro:

Davy
02-25-2017, 04:23 PM
I agree but Dan's joints are 1/32. Hard to use anything else. :shrug:

beedees
02-25-2017, 04:34 PM
...3/32, not 1/32 ". Duh.

Davy
02-25-2017, 05:01 PM
In that case, go sanded everywhere.

PetrH
02-25-2017, 06:15 PM
Mapei has a line of FA grouts. The FA stands for fine aggregates and it kind of bridges the gap between sanded and non sanded. Use that.

beedees
04-14-2017, 05:52 AM
any reason not to replace about 1/3 of the top part of a mud pan? Had to redo some tile and ended up with a very gouged surface. Started to redo the whole thing and then thought of just replacing what was needed.

cx
04-14-2017, 08:21 AM
Dan, after combining a handfull of threads about this shower project I can't tell for sure what kind of receptor you have. Is this a traditional shower receptor with a mud/liner/mud-type arrangement?

If so, I'd suggest you carefully remove the entire top mud bed and replace it.

beedees
04-14-2017, 09:27 AM
compelling reason not to do this? area is 20x30" in a 60x30 shower. half of it tiled and I don't want to start all over. considerble labor ( expense are involed here. thank also.is a presloper-liner-top bed,

cx
04-14-2017, 09:29 AM
Only if you're willing to tell what kind of shower receptor you're working on, Dan.

beedees
04-14-2017, 09:55 AM
PRE-SLOPE-LINER-TOP BED. Also, this site is flagged as an unsecure site.

rmckee84
04-14-2017, 10:01 AM
Can you post a few pictures so we get a better idea of what you have to deal with?

Layvon
04-14-2017, 02:27 PM
^^ That would definitely be helpful

Davy
04-14-2017, 06:23 PM
Hi Dan, like the others said, something like this is really hard to give advice on without some pics. You say it's a 20x30 area but how much of the mud has come up in that 20x30 area? I would tend to avoid any cold joints in a shower floor so if the mud has deep divots that go to the liner, or close to it, I would probably pull the tiles up and start over. But if the missing mud is shallow and just on the surface, you could patch it in. If you do remove the tiles, they may clean up without breaking but I wouldn't count on it.