Where to go from here [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

PDA

View Full Version : Where to go from here


mlorek
12-21-2016, 12:42 PM
Guys I'm getting ready to tile a downstairs bathroom in my cave. I have a few questions. I'm going to do a wood plank looking tile as to mimick the engineered floor we put down around our bar area. My questions are

1). I have carpet in the main living area that will transition to the tile at the edge of the bathroom. There is a metal cleat holding the carpet down. Do I rip up this cleat and tile right to where it was and have the carpet guys back to put a tack strip right next to the tile edge?

2). The concrete is in good condition with no cracks, do I need a membrain down or can I just tile right to the slab?

Any help would be appreciated.

Mike

Sponsored Links


Kman
12-21-2016, 10:56 PM
That transition piece unfortunately has a sort of tack strip in it that will rip the edge of your carpet to shreds if you don't remove it carefully. The top has to be bent away from the carpet, and then the carpet stretched and pulled up. If you don't know how to do it, best to call someone for help.

When you're finished tiling the carpet installer can set a tack strip at the proper distance from the tile and tuck the carpet in between.

Is this in a basement? If so, are there any moisture migration issues?

Tool Guy - Kg
12-21-2016, 11:02 PM
If it were me, I'd like to obtain the cleanest look possible. And eliminating any molding is usually my first option.

I'd pry open the metal (it actually looks like the capital letter "J" that's been pounded down to pinch the carpet) to separate it from the carpet. If the carpet is in good condition right up to the edge, you can simply butt the carpet to the edge of the tile after the tile is installed. The carpet guys will install a tack strip a finger width distance from the edge of the tile, trim it to the exact length, and tuck it up against the tile. But take a lot of care to leave a very clean, straight edge on the tile, because it's going to be partially exposed. Also, make sure to dull the sharp top exposed edge if it's a cut tile.

If the carpet is a little tattered, you might need the carpet guys to "turn and tack" the carpet at the edge. That involves folding the carpet under itself, so this technique might put you in a pickle of having to extend your tile out into the room a little bit. It really depends on the condition of the carpet edge and exactly how much carpet you've got to work with.

If you like molding, there are metal profiles that trim out both the edge of the tile and the edge of the carpet. But, you're limited, depending on the height of the tile and carpet, relative to each other. Take a look at this profile (http://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Profiles/For-Floors/Sloped-Transitions/Schluter®-RENO-TK/p/RENO_TK), for example. What's nice about this profile is that you install it with the tile, and the carpet guy has a nice track to tuck the edge of the carpet into. Here's a more plain trim (http://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Profiles/For-Floors/Same-height-Transitions/Schluter®-SCHIENE/p/SCHIENE) without the carpet slot.

:)

Todd Groettum
12-22-2016, 08:17 AM
I would go with the schluter scheine in your case...it goes in with the tile, protects the tile edge and once the carpet is done the nap will actually help to hide the little 1/8" of metal you would normally see.....this was a pretty standard trim for us both residential and commercial..there are several options including stainless although in your case the basic aluminum is all you really need..

mlorek
12-22-2016, 02:29 PM
Thanks guys, the carpet is brand new so I will take my time ripping the tack stop up and will have the carpet guys back to do the reinstall once the tile is in. We have no moisture issues anymore we used to sometimes have water come over the sill plate from the outside but we have re graded the yard and tucked all the brickwork including ripping out the lower three courses and reflagging the entire house.

THanks everyone for the help I'll post my progress
Mike

cx
12-22-2016, 05:18 PM
My preference for carpet to ceramic tile installations is to simply tuck the carpet directly against the tile edge. Your carpet installer (or you) can do that quite easily.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Kman
12-23-2016, 09:30 AM
I would agree with CX.

And while you may have a carpet installer do that for you, you'll find that the distance between the tack strip and tile is dictated by the thickness of the carpet. The gap is typically a bit thinner than the thickness of the carpet, and the carpet is stretched and cut just a bit long (maybe 1/16 - 1/8"), pushed onto the tack strip, then forced into the gap with a tuck tool.

cx
12-23-2016, 10:52 AM
And when I'm forced to do the carpet tucking, I prefer a plastic stair tool rather than a steel tool to keep from marring the tile edge.

Todd Groettum
12-23-2016, 11:17 AM
Well, not using a schluter trim edge and simply tucking the carpet up to the tile edge does give all them rookie tile guys out there repair work to do....

It is good for jobs for them guys who are trying to break into the trade and need gas money :oyeah:

cx
12-23-2016, 11:19 AM
Not to mention making a nicer looking transition without the extra type of material in there.

mlorek
01-28-2017, 02:30 PM
Guys I'm planning to start tiling my bathroom and have some concerns on no to deal with this rise in the concrete behind the toilet flange. It humps up around a 1/4 inch. Any ideas. I'm trying to avoid breaking up the concrete as the basement outside the bathroom is finally finished. I was thinking about just building up the spot in the corner with feather finish or some thinset.

mlorek
01-28-2017, 02:31 PM
Closer look at it

mlorek
01-28-2017, 02:32 PM
Distance view

rmckee84
01-28-2017, 03:11 PM
Could be the pic but it looks like the corner is a low spot, it looks like the level is flat on the floor other than in the corner?
Feather finish, self leveled, or another patching product would be fine. I'd advise against using thinset to build up. Or a grinder with a cup wheel on the high concrete but that will be dusty

cx
01-28-2017, 03:46 PM
This the same floor with the carpet transition we visited earlier, Mike?

Several ways to deal with the floor flatness if we knew more about it, as Ryan is pointing out, but I'm curious how you plan to deal with the height of that WC flange if you just wanna use a patching material on that low area.

Todd Groettum
01-29-2017, 08:05 AM
Kelly has a good point, that flange is sitting quite proud....A self leveling cement could get you level and bring your height up....Looks like a 3/8 " nominal Pour would get you back to snuff but without being there with a tape measure hunched over on my knees , thats best guess...:tup1:

mlorek
01-29-2017, 09:44 AM
Thanks guys for the replies and the help. CX this is the same bathroom with the carpet transition. That flange sits almost two inches proud of the concrete, I was planning on laying the tile up to the pipe cutting it off and just getting a new flange that would glue to the inside of this one. Is that a bad idea?

cx
01-29-2017, 10:27 AM
You can certainly do that, Mike. I'd recommend cutting the pipe before setting the tiles just in case you have a problem and end up needing to chip some concrete to make a repair.

My opinion; worth price charged.

mlorek
01-29-2017, 11:51 AM
Great news thanks CX

cx
01-29-2017, 12:47 PM
When I say you can do that, Mike, I'm assuming you have a 4" drain riser there. That the case?

mlorek
01-30-2017, 11:54 AM
i think it's a 4 inch , it's wrapped in splashed concrete right now, if not I guess I'll be breaking the floor up. Thanks CX again for the help.