small shower pan [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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01-11-2017, 02:12 PM
Hi all. I'm just starting my business as a handyman. I've self taught myself a lot on how to do anything construction related. This website is by far the best tile learning repository I have found. Kudos to all the experts who take the time to help out noobs like me, to helping each other in their craft.

So my deal is, I have not built a shower pan from scratch. I've tiled two shower walls, floors but have only dealt prefab pans in the past. Now, I've been hired to build a shower pan. Initially, I was going to use the goof-proof sticks but I trust my screeding skills enough to get by without the ugly risk associated with using that product. So after extensive research, I've hopefully figured everything into account save for just one thing... For a 36"x36" shower pan. Is it necessary to use metal lathe in pre-slope or the finished bed? I've read in so many places that it is only necessary in large format applications. I would be more comfortable omitting it.

thanks in advance,

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01-11-2017, 04:03 PM
Welcome, Ryan. :)

We need to know what kind of subfloor you have to answer your first question.

You do not need any reinforcing metal in the final mud bed of a traditionally built shower receptor of that size.

I would personally recommend you learn to use one of the newer direct bonded sheet-type waterproofing membranes to do your customers' showers.

My opinion; worth price charged.

01-11-2017, 05:44 PM
I agree with CX, while a traditional liner is tried and true there is more opportunities for leaks due to installer error. A single step mud pan with a surface applied membrane is very simple and cost effective approach.

01-11-2017, 06:01 PM
Old pre-fab drain to new drain adjustments to be made.

Customer has 19/32 osb subfloor. I plan to add a 3/4" sheet HIGH Quality Plywood with the face grain perp. to the floor joists.

put in drain.

(2) 2x4 curb.

Then a layer of aquabar "B" tile underlayment over pan and curb -- hopefully not to much overkill.

goof-proof shower curb over the 2x4 sandwhiched curb - (can you see my aversion to metal?)

Pre-slope calculator has me at .33 slope. A bit steep but easy to set my screeding guide with 3/4 scrap wood.

Oatey liner kit from big box store. Comes with the dam corners. No nails lower than 4" into liner. I've seen one guy chisel the studs to accomdate the thickness of the liner. I'm a believer in perfectly plumb walls to tile.

1.5" final mud bed.

CX - I will look into the direct bond membrane.

01-11-2017, 06:45 PM
I think you'll find it a bit difficult to properly fasten that 3/4" layer onto the 5/8ths" layer even if you pre-drill all the screw holes in the 3/4" layer. Entirely up to you, though....while a traditional liner is tried and true there is more opportunities for leaks due to installer error.
I'd hafta disagree with our friend Ryan on that point, but I'd still recommend the direct bonded sheet-type membrane for the shower receptor.

You're gonna find yourself a bit short on that curb, I think. Code requires the top of the curb to be at least 2" above the top of your drain and you'll want a minimum of 3/4" mud thickness at the drain for your pre-slope. The tile industry recommends the top of your curb be a minimum of 2" above the shower floor.

For what possible purpose would the AquaBar be?

Not sure what the "3/4 scrap wood" is gonna do for you.

No nails lower than 4" into liner.Not at all sure what you might mean there. Your liner must rise from the pre-slope up the walls a minimum of 3" above the top of the curb. You cannot have any mechanical fasteners lower than 2" above the top of your curb.

My opinion; worth price charged.