Help! [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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12-29-2016, 05:34 PM
As part of a complete remodel of my guest bath, I have cut up and removed the original one-piece fiberglass tub and three sided surround. Using a diamond blade on an angle head grinder I cut through the flange of this unit right at the drywall edge as I did not wish to later patch in a 1 1/2 - 2 inch strip of drywall. I then dropped a 32 x 60 fiberglass reinforced acrylic alcove soaker tub by Mirabelle, with the aid of an engine hoist, onto a type S mortar bed placed on the slab. Before dropping the tub, I had glued up and attached the 1 1/2 inch ABS drain and overflow with a stub of appropriate length projecting from the T to meet the ABS waste line, cut to an appropriate height, below the slab. With the tub placed and leveled I could then reach through the hole cut in the drywall of the adjacent guest room and pull up the rubber sleeve 'no hub' previously lubricated with K-Y jelly and pushed down out of the way onto the waste line. After the 'no hub' was pulled up into position I tightened the two clamps with a nut driver and covered the hole in the drywall with a plastic spring loaded panel.
I plan to staple paper shim onto the studs as necessary to fur out 1/2 inch drywall to account for the thickness of the vertical lip on the tub's three sides and the gap between lip and stud. The drywall will stop at the top of the lip and be in the same plane such that I can then put up Hardie Backer 500 over the drywall and down past the vertical lip with a 1/4 inch gap to the horizontal surface of the tub's three sides. The HB will be held back 1/2 inch from the drywall all along the top of the three walls and 1/2 inch from the two vertical edges of the drywall at the tub apron on the end walls to permit placing a quarter-round tile trim. As the 1 1/4 inch HB screws would clearly be too short I expect to countersink 2 inch, at minimum, stainless steel screws 6-8 inches apart and maintain a 1/8 inch gap between HB panels. All HB joints will be covered with Mapei Ultraflex 2, then 2 inch wide alkaline resistant tape paced in the mortar and smoothed with a margin trowel. The bottom edge of the HB will be sealed to the tub with GE kitchen/bath silicone caulk.Two coats of Redgard will be applied by brush to the 1/2 inch of exposed drywall and applied to the HB with a 3/4 inch nap roller.
As the tub is not absolutely, perfectly level on the long side, a story pole will be used to mark the wall at the low end for setting a level ledger. This will permit minor trimming of the bottom row of tile at the high end of the tub while keeping grout lines straight across all three walls. The tiles are 1 8/8 x 3 7/8 white subway with 15 tiles secured one to the other with drops of glue by the manufacturer to form each panel. Tile placement will be balanced left and right on each wall such that there will not be slivers of tile at either end. A decorative band of 9/16 x 9/16 inch square tile 4-6 tiles high on a mesh backing will run horizontally at roughly chest height. These tiles are colored in dark bronze tones to complement all the 'oiled bronze' bathroom hardware. All the grout joints are 1/8 inch and the grout a white pre-mixed Bostik TruColor urethane. The two vertical joints in the tile where each wall meets another will be caulked as will the tile to tub joint. Is it important to make this last joint the same width as the grout joints at 1/8 inch?
I know I have run on at great length, however, I did wish to be as complete and clear as possible so that my plans could be understood and fairly judged. I have never before attempted such a project and have grave concern as to whether it will be a success. I would greatly appreciate any feedback in criticism or reassurance. Thank you for any assistance.
P.S. For those who have never placed a 60 inch tub in a 60 inch alcove, stud to stud, as I had not, I did find it necessary to cut away the drywall at each end in front of the open stud alcove such that one end of the tub can be lifted from the floor and the bottom corner of the apron placed between the studs to permit the tub to be turned and let down to the floor and then pushed back into the alcove. The drywall cut outs to permit the raising, turning and dropping of the tub will not be cosmetically patched as they will be hidden by a PVC beadboard wainscot.

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12-29-2016, 06:24 PM
Welcome, George. :)

Long posts are not a problem, but if you could give us some paragraph breaks it would certainly make them easier to read.

Numbering your questions helps, too. I actually note only one actual question, but I think there may be more?

The gaps in your tile at the vertical corners needs to be at least 1/8th of an inch. You can make them larger if you want.

Installing drywall behind your CBU wallboard is not a real good idea. Furring out your wall framing with rips of plywood would be better and also allow you to flatten the walls if necessary. If the walls need to be plumbed as well, sistering good, straight studs beside the existing can accomplish the plumbing, flattening, and furring in one step.

I don't think I understand the purpose of your exposed drywall that you intend to coat with RedGard. That is not an acceptable application for the RedGard if it is within the wet area of your shower.

My opinion; worth price charged.