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12-17-2016, 09:01 PM
I have not been here in a while. I just had to rip out my very first tile job. My toilet supply (cpvc pin hole) leaked in the wall for YEARS apparently. Subfloor ruined, 3 joists plus band ruined, double main beam gone. No puddling in crawlspace, not water in the floor, a little on the outside brick, but near the hose and faucet(logically hidden). it mostly seeped into different layers of wood.lot of mold in the wall insulation.all the way to the ceiling. the plastic on insulation kept it from coming through sheetrock. i have finished all the framing and have a 3/4 subfoor PLYWOOD down. (not waferboard). Bye the way insurance denied the claim, that's another story. The good news is my tile job was still solid 8-9 years ago. I screwed hardibacker to vinyl and used Mapiea thinset and porcelain tile. It was the only thing holding me up. I didn't know there was a problem till the grout lines cracked near the toilet. i pulled out cabinets and tub/shower. New tub is in and i will tile the shower surround. i have done about 5 jobs over the last 9 years all still good. (4 floors 1 backsplash) some i used thinset under Hardi to subfloor some i screwed Hardi to vinyl. now for a shower i am being very cautious. i plan to use Hardi and a liquid membrane. i have never taped a Hardiboard joint. My searching thusfar lead me to believe to tile job would ever hold up without tape. Please instruct or criticize me as you see fit. i can take it.

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12-17-2016, 09:38 PM
I guess I don't understand what you're asking? If you're asking whether you should tape and thinset the joints the answer would be yes.

12-18-2016, 05:52 AM
I plan on taping the shower joints. I am not sure what tape to use. I need advice on that. I guess my main question is the floor. I have never taped before. I don't personally know anybody that taped the boards on the floor. Why would I start now?

12-18-2016, 07:53 AM
Another question; should the hardie board start on top of the tub lip, above it or overlap down into it. I have about an inch and a half lip screwed to studs. Is there a preference between Redgaurd and the Mapei brand membrane? I can do either but out Lowes don't have Redgaurd. A little longer drive to Home Depot. If there is a particular thin set or grout or grout additive I should use let me know. I will go buy the Hardie today and install 1/4 inch on the floor first. I might get around to hanging 1\2" in the shower.

12-18-2016, 01:20 PM
At lowes right next to the cbu there should be alkali resistant mesh tape.
Consider yourself lucky, I've seen a lot of failures due to not taping joints. You're free to do as you please, but there is a reason that manufacturers have it in the installation directions.
Either waterproofer is fine.
You can stop it at the top of the flange then thinset and mesh tape the void, or shim the wall out so you can go over the flange with cbu.

12-18-2016, 01:56 PM
thx for the replies!

12-18-2016, 02:12 PM
i will tape the floor this time because you say so. will only have one or two seems there. the shower is the tape job.

Next questions: i left about a foot of sheetrock above the shower to the ceiling. i am just going to run 1/2 Hardi to that then tile to the ceiling. i am assuming i should tape the joint between the hardi and sheetrock too? i am not concerned with water damage that high up. it has been there 25 years and the sheetrock was bone dry where i cut it. so i saw no reason to remove it.

I have read both do and don't use a plastic behind the Hardi and a waterproofing membrane. i was considering using the plastic around the first 2 feet around the top of the tub up. would the open top of that let the backer breathe enough that it wouldn't "sandwich" the moisture in. i built a niche in the back wall too. i was going to lay plastic on the flat surface and up where they join up a few inches.

12-18-2016, 03:15 PM
Chris, James Hardie in particular has done in-house testing of his products both for the use of thinset mortar under the panels and filling and taping the joints in floor applications. The findings indicate that if you don't tape and fill the joints you have a greater likelihood of tile installation failure; if you don't use mortar under the panels you will have a failure. Your mileage may vary, but you really want to read and follow the product manufacturer's installation instructions.

If you've gotten by without taping your joints in past, you can credit luck and that's not a very reliable installation tool.

If you plan to use a direct bonded waterproofing membrane on the inside of your shower walls there is no reason to use any plastic as a moisture barrier behind the walls. You must use either a sheet-type membrane or the manufacturer's recommended fabric with a liquid-applied membrane and connect either to the tub flange if you don't lap your wallboard over the tub's tiling flange.

While it is feasible to use a short section of moisture barrier behind the bottom of the wallboard instead and lapped over the tiling flange in such an application, you'll need to be very careful with that especially if you plan to use mosaic tiles on the walls.

I can't envision an application where use of any such moisture barrier material behind a niche where a direct bonded waterproof membrane was to be used to waterproof the niche.

My opinion; worth price charged.

12-18-2016, 06:27 PM
THx, CX. i will get some of that orange tape for the tub flange next trip to Lowes. I think it is Kerdi? i suspect you meant you "can't envision" using plastic under the niche? That is why i am here. I want to do this right but i don't want to go overboard and be counterproductive. (hence my lack of taping) i will use the tape from now on on floors but still don't see (physically or mechanically) the point of it but I have only conducted five experiments so far.

12-18-2016, 07:36 PM
Yes, Chris, I've corrected my typo. Thanks.

You can do your CBU floors in any manner you choose, of course, we can only tell you what the manufacturer and tile industry recommend.

My opinion; worth price charged.

12-19-2016, 11:41 PM
Which mortar from lowes should I use on shower? They have about a dozen.

12-19-2016, 11:44 PM

Job will be very similar to this.

12-19-2016, 11:55 PM
They carry different brands, depending on the store. Some are Mapei, some are TEC. I don't know if any are still carrying Laticrete or not.

This one (https://www.lowes.com/pd/TEC-Skill-Set-Ceramic-50-lb-Gray-Powder/50333885) or this one (http://www.mapei.com/US-EN/Tile-&-Stone-Installation-Systems/Polymer-Modified-Mortars/Ultraflex-1) would work.

12-20-2016, 01:39 AM
Thx. I'll use the Mapei. Didn't know which Mapei though.

12-20-2016, 05:34 PM
Big question. Wish I could post pics from phone. The design I (my wife aka boss picked will have a row of travertine border noce 4" wide about mid height horizontally through shower. How much maintenance will this require? If a lot help me talk her out of it..

12-26-2016, 10:50 PM
I have been all over the place with this remodel, ( out of necessity remodel). I just got most of the hardi up in the shower. I have readjusted my shimmed wall so much I'm tired of it. That and plumbing took me all day. I can't be wrong on the plumbing! I ended up using a router to notch a lip 3/16 deep (my acrylic tub lip is 3/16" thick) x about a half inch high on the backer. Then I put an inch or so of waterproof membrane on the back side of the board in and a little above my routed lip. Did this on all three walls and it worked great as far as fit. I will put my last couple pieces on tomorrow then tape and put on membrane liquid.
The new question I have coming up soon is on grout. I know -1/8" use unsanded +1/8" sanded. I will have some gaps 1/8 possibly smaller. This will be in a travertine meshed together noce going around the middle of the shower. Below it will be 12x12 ceramic with 3/16" gaps then on top I will have 4or 5 different style ceramic tiles cut to resemble bricks. I will use 3/16 maybe 1/4 gaps to enhance the look of brickwork. I am planning to use sanded Mapei Keracolor s with the additive for the whole shebang. Does my grout choice seem correct for this application?

Houston Remodeler
12-27-2016, 07:49 AM
Yes, it should work just fine. Do a test to be sure if you want to seal the stone before or after grouting. It can make a huge difference.

12-27-2016, 07:59 AM
I was going to seal the stone before I installed it, front and back.with some spray I bought for granite and stone. Then seal it again later. Can you over do it with sealer? With the grout additive I was still going to put another sealer on after the job is complete and set up a few days.

Houston Remodeler
12-27-2016, 08:05 AM
You don't want to seal the back side. That reduces bond. You do want to use white thinset to keep the color brighter. Grey thinset often makes natural stones look darker as the ceement crystals grow into the stone.

12-27-2016, 11:31 AM
Thx. Glad I read this just now. I bought white thin set. Was limited on what the Lowes in my area carried in white. Ended up buying Mapei Porcelain thin set. Bag said it is good for ceramic too and interior or exterior walls, so I assume it's ok on showers. Everything I do takes me at least three times longer than I plan so I'll be lucky to get tile on the wall today but I am still hoping to.

12-27-2016, 04:15 PM
another big question, and a mod may want to change the title of my thread as i am not asking tapping questions anymore. it is an all out remodel. The gap between the top of tub (horizontal not the flange) and tile.... i am leaving about 1/8" for easy caulking. If i am incorrect please stop me. the flange is only 1". i overlapped the hardiboard 1/4" with my routed notch. i wanted to leave a bigger gap but it would be impossible to caulk it without a curved tip on a caulk tube and i have never seen one.

12-27-2016, 05:03 PM
Chris, we'd be happy to change the title to something more generic any time you'd like to suggest one.

If I understand your last question, I would not caulk the bottom of the CBU above the tub. An eighth-inch gap between tile and tub is adequate.

My opinion; worth price charged.

12-27-2016, 06:49 PM
Yes, it should work just fine. Do a test to be sure if you want to seal the stone before or after grouting. It can make a huge difference.

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling

Paul, what kind of difference are we talking about?

12-31-2016, 06:29 PM
The shower is done ;!$:$:))//)&;! I am grouting tonight. Using Keracolor S with additive. I don't know which it is but the grey jug at Lowes. I guess I will seal it again or as much as you pros recommend. My question is how long before I can use the shower after grouting

12-31-2016, 07:31 PM
It should say on the package how long to wait before prolonged water exposure. Every grout is different.

01-06-2017, 03:28 PM

almost done

01-06-2017, 04:04 PM
this was the latest pic i had downloaded. i am finished now. just sealed the grout and stone. i will post more pics this weekend. wife loves it. she was the designer anyway.

01-06-2017, 05:21 PM
Looks nice! (I guess I'd keep her...) :tup2:

01-06-2017, 09:00 PM
I will keep her. But if she wants another shower like this I will have to train her on a tile saw to cut them ---- bricks herself.

01-16-2017, 09:10 AM
A few questions and mods please change my title to add ( full bath remodel). I am almost finished. Waiting on the granite man to cut and join the countertops I bought then ill tile the backsplash. Everything is great except water pressure in shower. It sucks. It's a delta Windermere and there is no factory adjustment for pressure. The old 25 year old delta I took out was fine. If there is no trick to increase this I will have to go through the Sheetrock in the hallway to replace it. I can't put up with it. It is a tub shower combo and the shower stream will not even reach the back of the tub not even close. Last questio; I had several pics I will post. Is there a limit to posting pics in this thread?

01-16-2017, 07:35 PM
You'll know when you try to edit the post, Chris. I think you've got a couple days, but I'm not entirely sure. Just make another post if you can't edit.

01-18-2017, 03:39 AM

I don't know which model Delta Windermere you have exactly, but the one I looked at shows that it puts out 2 gpm at 80 psi. 80 psi seems high to me in a residential shower. I would think 55 psi maximum.

There are some things you can check before you start replacing plumbing. Remove the shower head and look to see if the shower head is stopped up on the inside. With the shower head off, turn on the shower and see how much water comes out of the shower arm. If it is coming out pretty good, then the shower head is stopped up or it has a factory installed low flow device that you can probably remove. If the water is barely coming out of the shower arm then you will have to look at the instructions for your model and figure out how to take it apart to clean the cartridge.

01-18-2017, 10:46 AM
Thx. I'm going to swap heads between bathrooms tonight if that helps I'll dig or drill the screen,restricter out. Might change it out anyway. I want one with a diverter and hose hand head. Lowes didn't have it in oil rubbed bronze when I had to get one.

01-18-2017, 10:49 AM
New question. Anyone ever cut granite and join it. It's 1-1/2" thick. I am impatiently waiting on a pro. I am not sure what circular saw blade to buy and if I did it would cost nearly what he quoted.

01-18-2017, 11:56 AM
What exactly are you cutting and seaming? If it's somewhere visible then odds are I would leave it to someone that has a seamer and the tools to do so.

01-18-2017, 12:52 PM
I have a 72" vanity. At Surplus Wharehouse I got two 48" countertops with undermount sinks installed for under 400$. (36" wouldn't work because sink placement and 60" is biggest they sell). I watched a YouTube video and it looks doable but I don't plan to do another one ,ever. so I ain't buying a bunch of equipment. I will call other granite installers tomorrow I guess.

01-18-2017, 01:01 PM
Is it doable? Maybe, but blending the seam, polishing, and using the correct materials is what it takes to make it look good. I would call around, without the seamer it would be tough to get a tight joint.

01-18-2017, 08:05 PM

01-18-2017, 08:12 PM

01-18-2017, 08:19 PM

01-18-2017, 08:26 PM
This is the granite slab tops i will use on the 72" vanity. i think they are 49" each. I don't want to screw these up.http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=192084&stc=1&d=148479257http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=192083&stc=1&d=14847925711