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12-13-2016, 10:14 PM
Having the basement bathroom tiled (concrete slab), when I took the toilet out there was no flange on the PVC pipe, just a wax ring and tapcon studs in the slab. Is that typical or acceptable? What's the best way to install the toilet when the tile is done? Right now, the pvc pipe is flush with the concrete.

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12-13-2016, 10:18 PM
No and no.

Not sure just how your toilet was installed with those bolts not being in the center of that drain (perhaps it's just the photo)?

Is that a 3" or a 4" drain pipe?

12-13-2016, 10:44 PM
No, the bolts are way off center. It's a 4"pipe. Pipe seems really close to the wall but I'm no plumber, it's about 9-1/2" from center of the pipe to the wall.

Houston Remodeler
12-13-2016, 10:49 PM
You can install a 4-3 inch flange ( which fits inside the pipe shown. Get one with the stainless steel ring, not the plastic.

The ring sets atop the tiles.

The center of the pipe should be no less than 12 1/2" on center away from the sole plate at the wall behind the terlit or 12 inches away from the drywall. You're gonna have one heck of a time looking for a terlit to fit in there.

12-13-2016, 10:51 PM
But there are 10" toilets available, or so I'm told. I've never had to use one.

Houston Remodeler
12-13-2016, 10:53 PM
Even a 10 inch terlit would be a tight fit.

12-13-2016, 10:56 PM
Are there offset flanges to give me more breathing room, seems like I've seen something like that.

Houston Remodeler
12-13-2016, 10:59 PM
Offset flanges are against code in my fair city as they are prone to clogging. Might wanna check on that. If your fair city allows offsets, you'll need a chipping hammer / jack hammer to get the offset below the slab. If you're going that far, might as well fix the original error.

12-13-2016, 11:00 PM
Yes, they do make offset flanges that should help. What Paul said about clogging.

12-13-2016, 11:04 PM
Found this, seems like an option without tearing into the slab to gain 1-1/2", what's the concensus on these?
edit: I guess I would still need to do some concrete work to get this to fit

12-13-2016, 11:12 PM
Yes, you would still need to bust up some concrete.

12-13-2016, 11:18 PM
You'll still have to crack some concrete to put that in! If you're going to do that, you might want to just go a bit further and move it to where you really want it.

Some 10" toilets will fit if it's a true 9.5" from the FINISHED wall (not the baseboard). Most toilets have some gap behind them. A Toto that uses their UniFit adapter for a 10" rough in typically has 0.75" behind it, so there'd still be a small gap.

While probably not the greatest method, bolts into the slab to anchor the toilet is not all that uncommon. The outlet horn of most toilets' ID is only a little over 2", and that is what must be pointing entirely into the pipe, so, on a 4" pipe, what you have could easily work fine.

12-13-2016, 11:57 PM
Toto CST412MF.10 Aquia
Toto CST744EF.10 Drake

these will fit just fine without tearing the slab.

12-14-2016, 08:09 AM
Thanks all :tup1:

Steve in Denver
12-14-2016, 09:15 PM
I will second the recommendation for Toto toilets...they will flush anything I have been able to throw at 'em. :)

argile tile
12-16-2016, 06:58 PM
i once had to decide if to raise a flange after tiling under toilet (even if new bolts reached ring, a new wax ring would not be high enough)

when i got to lowe's, i saw "new" wax rings that had extender necks. instead of raising the flange i bought the wax ring with the pastic neck

12-17-2016, 10:27 AM
Follow up: tile guy installed a PVC flange (forgot to specify a SS ring like Houston recommended) before pouring the floor leveler, now the flange is below the finished floor by the tile thickness, sounds like I'll need one of those extender neck wax rings argile mentioned. Ended up with about 9-3/8" from center of pipe to finished wall, do you think one of those Toto toilets will still fit?

Houston Remodeler
12-17-2016, 10:31 AM
Not sure if the terlit will fit, but do use one of those green foam rings ( instead of wax.

12-17-2016, 03:48 PM
If you wish to use a Toto toilet (IMHO, they're one of the best available here), if it's one that uses a UniFit adapter, you can make it fit, but you need to be aware of the placement of your water supply line. Those toilets have a skirt that tends to be a little wider than many toilets, and you may have interference with the back of the toilet and the shutoff. If you go to their website, you can view drawings of each toilet in the spec sheet that shows the nominal spacing. Those using the UniFit generally have 3/4" gap behind the toilet, so you'd be close, but it will fit. Also, you can 'cheat' the anchor bolts forward as much as 1/4"-3/8" or so and not impact the operation of the toilet. As long as the outlet of the toilet horn has a straight shot into the drain, you will be fine. As you fudge the bolts forward, because of the curve, they get slightly closer together, but there's enough slop in the adapter to still fit as long as you don't go too far. Get solid SS or brass bolts...get them with a second set of washers and nuts. Tighten the bolt to the flange with one set so it stands up straight and doesn't flop or rotate, then use the second set to anchor the toilet pieces. You need (per code most places) to use a sealant around the edge of the toilet. This is important for two reasons...a toilet can slide on the smooth tile (you can't tighten it enough without cracking it), and it keeps mop water and other obvious stuff from accumulating underneath the toilet where you can't clean things up without removing the toilet...something you don't want to have to do. I haven't looked at the Aquia recently, so do not know if it will fit at less than the specified 10" rough-in.

Houston Remodeler
12-17-2016, 04:53 PM
If you use the Toto Unifit, skip the foam ring.