bathroom remodel question [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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12-12-2016, 10:15 AM
We recently bought an older home and I was thinking of remodeling the bathroom. I want to tile the shower around the existing bath.
I was wondering if that is something that is acceptable to do? If you look at the pictures (please excuse the mess, this bathroom is currently in bad shape and nobody wants to use it) you will see that bathtub has like three layers that are connected, I was wondering if its ok to remove the top two layers of this plastic material, install hardibacker and waterproof it and tile and just leave the bottom piece of the bath as is.

Is that ok to do so or would you recommend I should remove everything and install a new bath, just not sure how its done. I do have some previous tiling experience, but Im not an expert by any means.

Thank you all,

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12-12-2016, 11:52 AM
Because of the design of that type of enclosure, integrating a tiled surround isn't really feasible.

Removing and replacing tub and building a proper tiled surround is a significant project. Will eat both time and $$. DIY will help, but not a "quickie" kind of thing.

12-12-2016, 07:38 PM
thanks fo rreply, I was afraid of that lol
but i do have time and a small budget. im not in a rush so i will give it a try. maybe it will take me a little longer but i want to do it right.

Should I start by removing everything then? taking it to the dump
So is there a specific bath that i should look for that is suitable for tile?

Houston Remodeler
12-12-2016, 08:14 PM

Just how small of a budget are you talking about? Proper waterproofing costs around $20 per sf, add tile, grout, thinset, backerboard, caulking.....

12-12-2016, 09:22 PM
i have 2k available right now, i could probably allocate more $$ at a later date.
i think this should be a good start anyway, maybe buy some items on boxing day :D

Houston Remodeler
12-12-2016, 09:56 PM
If that's US dollars you should be OK

12-12-2016, 11:34 PM
$20 a sqft for waterproofing Paul? The DIY material cost for both liquid and sheet membrane from all the big boys is closer to $2 at most. Backerboard is another $1 at most. Preproofed foam board like Kerdi board is like $4ish. Still don't see how you got to $20.

Todd Groettum
12-13-2016, 11:04 AM
He added Labor John ;)

American standard Porcelain tub around 265-280 Kohler 350 - 600 Minimum up to 1500.00 for top quality

Since you will be tiling, Spend some money and get a decent Porcelain tub...Mid quality Kohler.
tub - 600
CBU, thinset, Redgaurd - 240
Tile & Trim - 500
Incidentals - 100

Plumbing , Sheetrock, Paint, Fan/ Light unit

Yea, you can do it for 2 grand if you are careful and spend Wisely for top quality where you should have it....

Add a couple hundred bucks for getting that new tub in place...You will need help and Beer is expensive ;)

This American standards a Pretty good tub for the money also

12-13-2016, 11:54 AM
Should i use regular Sheetrock and some schluther cover as someone suggested on other thread or would you recommend using cbu. I previously worked with hardibacker and it was a little tedious but I dont mind it and will do it again if its a better option over kerdi.

thanks for the price break down - it does help!

I should also mention that I'm in Canada, and my 2k budget is in CAN dollars.

Todd Groettum
12-14-2016, 07:09 AM
Well if its canadian dollars no way....ROFL...

Choosing method is your call...Spend a little time in here researching...I have built alot of CBU ( Durock, Wonderboard etc)Tub Showers as have a thousand + other guys with much success....

Going the CBU route will cost a little less but the stuff is heavy ( it gets heavier when the job requires several pallets worth ;) )

One thing...if your outside walls are sheetrock and you use CBU, make sure you have a factory edge up to your cut sheetrock and leave enough room to tape this and tile just beyond the edge of the cbu outside the tub area..( generally around 2" give or take)

12-14-2016, 10:02 AM
damn it! i was hoping the loonie would be worth something :D
thanks, I probably go with the CBU, i have no experience with schluther products.

argile tile
12-14-2016, 11:29 PM
i agree it could *end*up* beginning as a long DiY project and become a significant project. think 2x about starting and read this forum's past projects for "what might go very wrong". and for time saver methods (like uses of a curb)

a bathtub was quoted for $350-$1,500 despite the $2000 budget. obviously unless you need drought water storage, you could do just the shower

Houston Remodeler
12-14-2016, 11:35 PM
my bad, I meant $2 per sf for waterproofing.. my bad typing

Tiger Mountain Tile Inc
12-17-2016, 12:07 PM
It'd be a shame to tile the surround and not replace the faucet while you have access to it. Moen's are like Toyota's. A Positemp valve and Eva trim ( will run about $175.

Along with what Todd said- this is the tub ( that I've been putting in for my customers. It's deeper than a normal old tub. There's a special drain kit to go with it too.

Todd Groettum
12-18-2016, 08:13 AM
Nice tub...Lots of bang for the Buck...:tup2:

12-19-2016, 11:08 PM
i like that kohler tub! hopefully can find that model in canada.
and i definitely will be replacing faucet and shower head. thanks for advice!

01-11-2017, 12:34 AM
I will be tiling my bathroom floor and trying to decide on a subfloor material to use. i have existing plank subfloor 3/4" which seems to be in good shape. Joists are 16 oc. But i dont know what to use additionally on top of that.

would 5/8 tongue and groove ply work with my set up? I was thinking of this product

Later on top of that I could use ditra or cbu.
Id appreciate some guidance on this.

01-11-2017, 03:41 AM
You'll want to evaluate your joist structure to determine if it's suitable for a ceramic tile installation. Use the Deflectolator in the dark blue bar above to get an initial go/no-go reading on that.

If your board subfloor is oriented perpendicular to the joist structure you must install a minimum of nominal half-inch exterior glue plywood on top of the boards before your tiling substrate. The plywood need not be T&G.

My opinion; worth price charged.

01-11-2017, 11:01 AM
Thanks for reply CX. I checked it on Deflectolator page, it says that Im good to use ceramic tile, but not stone.
The existing plank subfloor is positioned perpendicular to joists on an angle (like 45 degree).

Also still trying to find the right plywood for my purpose, cant find anywhere in description which glue was used, maybe I should go talk to someone at the store. ask them about the glue, if its waterproof or not.

01-11-2017, 11:07 AM
If you'll add a geographic location to your User Profile it will remain permanently in view and help in answering some types of questions, including this one. Can't tell where you might be shopping for your plywood.

Most any graded plywood (AC, BC, etc.) you find in a home center will be an exterior glue plywood and will indicate so on the grade stamp by EXT or Exposure 1.
The existing plank subfloor is positioned perpendicular to joists on an angle (like 45 degree). You gotta decide which it is. Are the boards perpendicular to the joists or at an angle?

01-11-2017, 11:21 AM
Sorry, I must of put my loaction in wrong field when i signed up, im in Edmonton, Canada :)

the plywood i was looking is this one

And im also attaching a picture of existing subfloor, the red line is showing how the joists are running underneath.

01-11-2017, 11:59 AM
Thought that might be the case. Now please change that permanent signature line to a first name for us to use. :)

The sawn board subfloor requirement for a ceramic tile installation requires a minimum of nominal 1/2" plywood over the boards. That presumes that the boards are T&G boards oriented perpendicular to the joists. I can't tell if your board are T&G, but they are not perpendicular to the joists and therefore spanning farther than they would otherwise.

The 1/2" plywood may still be just fine, but your nominal 5/8ths" would be even better. I cannot tell what sort of wood your link might be advertising, but you'll still want to see a grade stamp. Unlikely it will be T&G panels without being exterior glue, but the Canadian standards are different from the US standards in some ways. Again, you do not need the panels to be T&G for your application.

My opinion; worth price charged.

01-11-2017, 12:34 PM
ok, thanks for that. I tried using the signature, but it wont let me edit it anymore. My name is Greg, maybe moderator can can change it for me.

The existing boards are T&G and the wood in the plywood construction is Fir. I believe it says Q-Ply on the board. I read somewhere that it is a structural quality for roofs, walls and floors.

I think i will give 5/8 a try. thank you!

01-27-2017, 07:53 PM
hi, i was just wondering if its possible to find the exact tile that was installed in my house? I have a few spots that either cracked or missing tile in my kitchen. Or there is no way?