Topsy's Master Bathroom Shower Project [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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12-09-2016, 10:14 AM
I'm about ready to start tearing down the master bath shower. Approximate size is 41 x 77".

Having shower glass installed as shown in the picture is out of my budget. I'm considering raising the half-wall between the shower high enough to install a sliding shower door kit.

I'd appreciate any comments if this is a good/bad idea, or ideas how to build a frame-less enclosure to replace the existing framed enclosure. The existing stuff is worn out and needs to be replaced

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12-09-2016, 10:51 AM
Check out Dreamline Shower Doors. I just put in an Enigma-X 60x34.5 frame less sliding enclosure. All the parts were quality and their support is excellent. The delivery carrier had destroyed two of the glass panels in transit and they promptly sent out replacements after I sent them pictures of the damaged pallet and packaging. I paid around $950 shipped for the Enigma-X enclosure and a reputable local glass shop quoted me $2500 installed for a similar custom enclosure.

I preferred to install it myself because I only drilled the curb just shy of tile depth and cut the screws to function as set pins. I then used Latapoxy 310 to hold the screws and brackets in place. Most glass places will just drill right through your curb and waterproofing because it is very time consuming to use the epoxy method which protects the waterproofing. I copied this method from another John Bridge member who said it worked successfully for his frame less installation. When you fill that hole in the tile with epoxy I truly believe the brittle stainless steel screw will snap before it ever pulled out from the epoxy. Also, the primary loads on the screws are in shear not in tension. Also, if you build your curb out of foam as is getting more and more popular there is nothing for that screw to grab onto past the tile anyway unless you run a really really long screw all the way to the floor. Good luck waterproofing that penetration!

Todd Groettum
12-10-2016, 08:53 AM
Another option.....

12-10-2016, 09:08 AM
I don't like my idea of extending the wall up to full height, I don't think it will look very good. Just talked to a local glass/shower installer, and we discussed extending the knee wall around to the door opening. That might get the cost within budget, and will look a lot better.

Todd Groettum
12-10-2016, 09:34 AM
You do not like glass block??

12-10-2016, 10:00 AM
Never been a fan of the glass block, but thanks for the suggestion.

12-11-2016, 04:59 PM
Completely changed direction, started looking at the glass block and it grew on me. I have always liked the idea of a walk-in shower without a door, so I'm considering something similar that was posted in the link. In my picture, the red is where the opening will be. I'll build another matching knee wall (black lines), and then glass block on top of both knee walls.

Todd Groettum
12-12-2016, 05:55 AM
Post pictures, would love to see your progress....Glass block/Tile combinations can be exceptionally nice and the Owens corning systems relatively easy....

12-13-2016, 11:05 AM
You mean Pittsburgh Corning? I see that they recently exited the glass block business.

Todd Groettum
12-13-2016, 11:13 AM
Yes thats what I meant and no i was unaware they had exited as I have been retired for a bit.....It was what we carried....BUT, on the bright side, if thats the case You just may be able to find a really good buy on some excess inventory....worth looking into but make sure you can get all the pieces you need....

Seves was another but they did not have the variety of decorative trims etc...

12-16-2016, 07:55 AM
Going to do a traditional shower installation.

Picture on the left is what it will look like after installing the subslope and PVC liner. On the right is the knee wall extension added at the same time as the deck mud.

I thought if I build the knee-wall extension before doing the subslope, it will be very difficult to install the PVC liner around it. So instead of compromising the PVC liner, I thought I could build a "foundation" for the knee wall extension while doing the final deck mud.

This foundation would be the same height as the curb, and then I could frame the extension on top of that.

Good or bad idea?

If it's a good approach, should I use concrete to build the foundation instead of deck mud? Does it need reinforcing?

Todd Groettum
12-16-2016, 08:17 AM
If i were building that I would use a Product like Quickrete 4000 psi mix, form the curbing, Then build Pan using Sandmix followed by Laticrete Hydroban following their specifications for doing a Shower....

Go here and register for architectural guidebook

Others may have suggestions that differ any of which may be a good choice for you based on product availability and Your own capabilities...:neesie:

12-16-2016, 09:01 AM
After doing a lot of reading about liquid membrane and Kerdi, I decided to go the traditional method. This is my 4th shower, 3 previous were traditional, this is hopefully my last one for a long time. Since I have experience with traditional and no experience with the other methods, I think I'll get the best results with traditional.

12-17-2016, 05:11 PM
I haven't started removing the old shower yet, but the steps I plan to take are:

If necessary, set the drain height to a minimum of 3/4"
Protect the wood subfloor with roofing felt paper or plastic.
Preslope reinforced with 2.5# galvanized lathe stapled in place
Preslope a minimum of 1/4" per foot to drain from farthest corner
PVC liner

That's enough for now. What are the requirements on the staples?

Houston Remodeler
12-17-2016, 07:39 PM
Enough to hold the metal lath down

Todd Groettum
12-18-2016, 08:07 AM
Never counted em, just used a hammer stapler to get it flat ;)


12-23-2016, 01:40 PM
Started demolition, here's what I found so far:

Concrete board mounted over plain drywall. No vapor barrier.
Liner goes up about 1" above tile surface, 2" below the curb.
Drain flange is mounted higher than the liner.
I'm assuming no preslope, but haven't got that far yet.
All tiles applied with mastic, but they are very secure.

Lower 18" of drywall crumbled.
Deck mud saturated

12-26-2016, 06:19 PM
How should I build the knee wall exterior? I'm assuming no vapor barrier. I'm using wonderboard for the shower interior. Should I also use it on the exterior, or would you use drywall for that?

12-27-2016, 06:02 PM
On the interior of the knee wall, I would put the vapor barrier up an over the top, and back down on the exterior side a few inches. I'm thinking wonderboard on both sides and the top. Is this correct?

Tiger Mountain Tile Inc
12-27-2016, 06:24 PM
You want cement board on the inside, top and end walls. You can put drywall on the exterior if you want.

I know you are installing a traditional mud pan. What I would recommend is to forego the plastic behind the cement board and install a liquid waterproofing on all the walls instead.

You will need the liquid on top of all the half walls anyway. It's better to just use it throughout.

01-05-2017, 05:46 AM
Hoping to do the preslope tomorrow.

1. How "hard" do you pack the deck mud and what tool do you use?

2. Approximately how many days do I need to let it dry until I can safely walk on it (to install the CBU)? It will be about 2" thick at the thickest point.

Houston Remodeler
01-05-2017, 11:54 AM
1- Bang it pretty hard with a wood float

2- one day aka overnight

01-08-2017, 02:54 PM
Got the preslope and stud notching done. I trimmed the inside corner studs so the liner fold can be put in there.

Should I seal the inside corners so moisture won't get into the fold?

01-08-2017, 04:15 PM
Don't worry about moisture getting into the fold, it'll get out.

01-14-2017, 09:15 AM
Got the liner and vapor barrier installed, I have a seam in the vapor barrier, is there a particular tape I should use to seal the seam?

02-17-2017, 06:46 AM
My project has been very slow since I developed a herniated lumbar disc. (Not from this project)

I do have the liner and the Wonderboard installed, leak test completed, planning to do the final mud bed tomorrow.

Planning the tile pattern. The tile wall will be approximately 7.5 ft high. The wall extends another 2 ft above that, which is painted. For the top course of tile, do you typically finish that with schluter, bull nose, or nothing? I am already using some shluter quadec in the design, but I was wondering if that top edge needs any finishing since nobody can see the edge.

02-17-2017, 09:38 AM
I would continue the quadec, it looks better if it has some sort of cap to finish it off.

04-23-2017, 07:48 AM
The 12x24 tile that I'll be using is 10mm thick, about .4". I'll be using a trowel with 1/2" by 1/2" cutouts. Should I go with 3/8 quadec or 1/2"?

05-25-2017, 08:22 PM
I went with the 1/2" quadec, I have quite a bit of it. Which is better, grout between the tile and quadec, or caulk?

I'm going to use Fusion Pro grout.

05-25-2017, 08:54 PM
Personally I grout, some guys caulk. I would advise that you take the fusion pro back and get something else. It does not perform as advertised in wet areas regardless of what Custom Building Products claim. You're free to do as you please, but I hear of at least 2 fusion pro failures a week in my various facebook groups.

Houston Remodeler
05-26-2017, 07:06 AM
Our experience with Fusion has been different. Its all we use for the last few years. Never a failure.

06-29-2017, 08:39 AM
Tile is done, waiting for glass guy to install the glass.



08-13-2017, 10:05 AM
After a long delay, the glass guy finally got the glass installed (1/2"). I'm going to add either one or two 24" glass shelves, something like this. Question is where to place them. I don't want them too close to the shower head, I'm 6'4" and I don't want to bang into them while showering. I was considering on the large wall back towards the walk-in opening.