Roger's Bathroom Remodel Extravaganza [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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07-16-2015, 12:41 PM
Thank god there is a forum like this otherwise I wouldn't know where to begin.

With that said. I don't know where to begin.

I have a million questions, but I think I'll start off with one topic at a time. Otherwise I'll overwhelm myself.

My Question:
I'm using Jeffery Cort Carrera Marble (8x12) in a Kerdi shower (going to a class in a couple weeks). What is the best way to seal the marble before I install and what is the best brand of sealant to use? Can I dip them in it? If I dip them do I need to worry about adhesion?


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Steve in Denver
07-16-2015, 12:55 PM
I'm not a pro - you may get other answers and I'd suggest that you listen to "them" not "me" if there is a difference of opinion.

I used Carrera marble in my shower and sealed *after* the tiles were installed and grouted. I believe you can seal before grouting, but you have to take care not to get sealer in the grout joints for the adhesion issue you alluded to. I don't know that it is that big of an issue in practice, but it could happen.

You will want to follow the manufacturers instructions for whatever sealer you choose, and I suspect you will find that the sealer is to be applied with a cloth or maybe with a spray pump...I haven't heard of soaking to apply the sealer, but again I'm an amateur.

I used Mircale brand 511 (I think) impregnator sealer. It seems to be well regarded. As I recall the instructions were to apply to the surface using a cloth, let it sit for a period of time (5 minutes) and then wipe off.

The sealer will protect the stone against staining to some extent, but it does not waterproof it. That's what the kerdi (or other waterproofing method) is for.

A few other things:

1. Use white thinset with your marble tiles - gray can stain it.
2. If you are considering using marble on the floors, I suggest you do a search of the forums - plenty of problems with light colored marble on floors.
3. If you are considering using large tiles on the floor, consider that they may be slippery....the grout joints provide much of the friction/traction that you rely on in a wet environment - tiles 2x2 or smaller are generally preferred (as I recall).

Good luck with your project and make sure you take your time - both to enjoy the process and to do it right. Ask questions about anything you don't understand even if (especially if) it seems obvious...My take: It's not hard to do it right, but it's easy to get it wrong. What I mean by this is that if you know what is required, the actual work isn't hard to do correctly, but there are plenty of opportunities to do miss something important...information is key, and you are in the right place to get good info.

07-16-2015, 10:20 PM
Thank you very much. We'll actually be using matte porcelain tile on the floors.

The tile mfg says to use a high quality sealer. I have a call into them but I guess they don't want to endorse a particular product or something.

Regarding the sealing of the marble, can somebody else jump in to confirm or deny Steve's approach to sealing the tile? Is a dipping method a horrible idea?


Houston Remodeler
07-16-2015, 10:23 PM

We get a ton of complaints on the website about the use of marble in a shower. How it stays wet, it changes color, loses its shine, spalls, chips, stains....

We do our very best to talk every customer out of using marble or travertine in a shower. They make very very good ceramic look a likes. No need to use real marble these days.

Just my 2 centavos.

07-16-2015, 11:38 PM
Thanks Paul. Do you have any suggestions for good look alikes? I'm was planning on using honed marble if that makes my plan more doable...

Steve in Denver
07-16-2015, 11:47 PM
We get a ton of complaints on the website about the use of marble in a shower. How it stays wet, it changes color, loses its shine, spalls, chips, stains....

Paul tends to be right, so I won't argue with him, but I will say that most of the problems I have seen/read about were specific to the floor (and maybe the bottom 6 inches or so on the wall)....I think you will avoid the bulk of the issues if you avoid marble on the floor. Of course, you can avoid all of the issues by getting the simulated marble tiles.

FWIW, I did my floor in ceramic and walls in white carrera and I really like it. I haven't experienced the issues listed above. It has only been a year or so, 5 years I'll might have dull, spalled tiles that have changed color - surely Paul's fault if that happens. :)

07-17-2015, 09:08 AM
Thanks guys. Now I'm completely torn. Does anybody else have Marble showers they are happy with?

07-17-2015, 09:14 AM
Welcome, Roger. :)

I'm sure there are a lotta them out there, but we tend to hear about the problem ones here on the forums and we hear of a lot of those kind.

Entirely up to you what you wanna try, of course. And feel free to blame Paul if you use marble and it doesn't work out. I'm sure he'll be at least partially responsible.

My opinion; worth price charged.

07-17-2015, 10:16 AM
Thanks CX. I'm already blaming Paul for destroying my dreams. j/k

07-17-2015, 11:36 AM
A hundred years ago, [ :gerg: ] ... I had access to yards and yards of Rojo Alicante and several variations of White Carrera marble for the mere gift of a bottle of whiskey ... and going into a collapsed-roof warehouse full of the stuff, risking life and limb to get it out while the rest of the beams and roof might cave in anytime. Insurance had paid and the contents were going to the dump with the rest of the building as it was getting knocked down and my buddy ran the demo crew. Must have salvaged 20K sq. ft.

Inexperience allowed me to use it everywhere ... After a year or so, it was stained pretty noticeably. Then the de-lamination of the polished surface in the shower and steam room started - especially on the Rojo Alicante accents. After three or four years the areas around the tub(s) had changed color significantly and the lower 2 to 3 inches of the tiled backsplash along the sinks in the bathroom were graying.
Nothing we did could get it back to normal. Buy the third year, right after a thorough cleaning, we would look through the glass at the shower stall ... it looked dingy and dark from the waistline down and progressively got darker as you looked to the floor. Disgusting.
We tore it all out and went porcelain.

As others have said ... stick with a porcelain or ceramic tile for the areas you mentioned ... it'll last forever while never changing color.

Hope this helped.

Good luck.

07-17-2015, 12:13 PM
Marca Corona Deluxe series is the best porcelain carrara look alike. Comes matte and polished, large format sizes and mosaics. Crossville has a line called Virtue, very nice, but it is closer to a calacutta (brown/taupe veining) and comes satin or unpolished finishes, many size options.
Neither is cheap, but both really nicereally nice.

I've had customers that did their entire bathrooms in marble and didn't experience any issues. So it does happen. I've also heard many complaints, usually irregularities which are hard to control for w/a natural stone and undetermined staining (how did it happen, nobody knows.) For all the money that's involved I couldn't be bothered w/the maintenance (annually sealing, not using commercial cleaning products ie:bleach or ammonia, polishing, etc.)

Steve in Denver
07-17-2015, 10:21 PM
I've had customers that did their entire bathrooms in marble and didn't experience any issues. So it does happen.

I hope I get to be one of those people. I really like the marble, and while I might choose a ceramic simulated marble tile if I were to do it again, I really don't like the thought of doing it again any time soon.

So far, after 14 months of twice daily use, it looks pretty much like it did after a month of use. cross the fingers, I will.

Tiger Mountain Tile Inc
07-18-2015, 10:06 AM
I always give a little speech to any customers that want natural stone installed. There's a big difference in the maintenance and the cleaning between a natural stone shower and a porcelain tile shower.

You have to be super careful what products you use with a marble shower because most of the products and tactics that one wants to use will scratch and damage the stone. It also needs to be sealed regularly as part of a maintenance program. I always recommend that they contact a stone maintenance company and get set up on a regular maintenance program.

The last thing I want to hear is "We didn't understand how much work this was..." or "I don't understand how someone would think it was a good idea to put this in a shower?" I've heard both of these although the last one was in regards to limestone.

Natural stone is beautiful but there's a price that comes with it.

07-20-2015, 02:14 PM
Thank you very much for the replies. Based off of Richard's recommendation. I am looking at the Marca Corona Deluxe tiles.

I spoke with Marca Corona and they said I could use either a polished or natural finish tile for my shower. I was under th understanding that polished tile should not be used in wet areas because it would need to be sealed yearly. I mentioned this to them and they said simply "we don't suggest sealing porcelain tile". Now I'm confused, as I had read here and other places that polishing the porcelain opens up the pores which requires the sealing. They had never heard of this.

Opinions on this? Or are they blowing smoke?

Steve in Denver
07-20-2015, 03:56 PM
I suspect the polished / natural finish refers to the marble that is being simulated, and not the tile itself. So you will get either a porcelain tile that looks like polished marble, or one that looks like natural (honed?) marble, but both will be a porcelain tile.

As I understand it, you do not need to seal porcelain tile.

07-22-2015, 09:08 AM
Hey Roger,

I've never, ever heard of sealing porcelain tile .... but more than likely they were referring to the grout around it ... especially in a shower installation.

07-22-2015, 09:17 AM
I've never, ever heard of sealing porcelain tile... Hang around our Sealing forum, Gregory, and you'll hear it quite often. Some porcelain tiles can, indeed, benefit from being sealed.

And polished porcelain, if that's what Roger is actually getting, definitely wants to be sealed before grouting from what I understand. Big problem with grout haze on that kind of tile surface that can not be removed using any normal means.

Might be as Steve is suggesting, though, and it's actually a glazed tile simulating a polished look, which would be a different story.

My opinion; worth price charged.

08-13-2015, 06:17 PM
Ok. Thank you all for the tile suggestions. I'm now going with porcelain. With that said I have a couple new questions since I started the demo. The existing shower had a hot mop pan on a slab foundation. I have everything out now I'm inspecting the drain. I plan on using a mud pan and a kerdi drain system. Since this is my first shower I want to make sure I don't mess anyting up too badly.

Here's my questions.

What am I looking at here, in regards to the drain?
It looks like it might be some type of cast collar which is slid over the ABS in the slab.

What the heck to I do with it?
I'm assuming it won't just pull off of there.

Lastly, How much of this hot mop tar needs to be removed before I can put my own mortar bed in?

Thank you very much.

08-13-2015, 06:33 PM
You will want to get a Kerdi drain to use with your Kerdi shower. I wouldn't even try to take the drain apart. The bolts are probably rusted and won't come out. You might be able to see where the concrete was patched in around the drain, usually a 12 to 16 inch square or circle patch of concrete. I'd start busting it out to expose the drain.

If you don't have a chipping hammer, Home Depot rents them and is well worth every penny.

08-13-2015, 06:35 PM
Thanks! Yes, I have a kerdi drain for ABS already purchased. It does look patched around it. I'll knock some of it out and report back before I cut anything out.

08-13-2015, 08:03 PM
Roger, if you look at the dark blue bar above, click on the TYW store. John Bridge has an Ebook on Kerdi showers that just might be the best 10 bucks you've ever spent. Lots if info crammed in there. :)

08-18-2015, 10:14 AM
Thanks Davy. I went ahead and purchased it.

I ended up knocking out the patch and replacing the trap. I now need to fill the patch back in. I've read on here to use a 4" pvc pipe as a form, which looks like it could work well.

Before I proceed. I wanted to get the forums opinion on the leftover hotmop that is on my concrete slab. I have a vast majority of it off, but as you can see in the pic the oil has absorbed into the concrete. Will this pose a problem when I go to do my mud pan? Or do I need to do some further treatment? If so, what?


08-18-2015, 10:21 AM
You want to be able to bond your mud bed to the concrete with a slurry of thinset mortar or Portland cement, Roger. I would recommend mechanical scarification of the slab I see in the photo.

My opinion; worth price charged.

08-18-2015, 10:46 AM
Would you recommend cutting grooves with an angle grinder or using a diamond cup wheel? or both?

08-18-2015, 10:53 AM
Cup wheel would be my first choice of weapon, Roger.

08-18-2015, 11:02 AM
Great. Thanks CX

08-21-2015, 10:09 PM
I took the diamond cup to the floor and it works great. I plan on patching the slab next. Should I add in a vapor barrier of some type?

I also replaced the existing trap. Currently the pipe for the drain is sticking out of the floor a few inches. As I have mentioned I'm going to use a 4in pvc form around this pipe. How close or under the floor should this pipe be cut for a mud pan and Kerdi drain? Thanks again everyone.

09-21-2015, 01:25 PM
I recently ordered some 12x24 rectified glossy tile from a well known online vendor. I picked up the shipment and noticed the boxes said a different size (11 5/8x23 1/4 to be exact). I figured they just sent the wrong size and on the invoice I there is specific instructions not to refuse a shipment, so I loaded up and brought it home.

I spoke with the vendor today and they are telling me the tile I ordered in glossy finish doesn't actually come in 12x24 it comes in the smaller size, if I wanted the natural finish that one I can get in 12x24. I figure, ok that's a bummer, but oh well, I'll just use the natural stuff.

When I tell the vendor this they say it is my responsibility to pay a 25% restocking fee and pay for return shipping (couple hundred bucks). edit...they just called and said they would pay the return shipping but I still have to pay, restocking.

The vendor says that it was my responsibility to know the exact specs of the tile before I ordered it, but unfortunately none of this information was listed on their website.

Am I being un reasonable?

09-21-2015, 02:13 PM
Hi Roger, welcome to the forum,

The sizes listed are nominal sizes and the actual size will almost always be different.

This same issue came up on my bathroom renovation, 4x10 tile was actually 4.25" x 9.875" and the large format 12x24 tiles I used were about 11.75" x 23.5"

09-21-2015, 02:18 PM
Thanks. I suppose, I'm stuck then. I just wish they would have informed me on the site that they are nominal sizes. Or that the tile industry was more standardized...then again asking the entire tile industry to change for my DIY shower may be a tad too much to ask. :)

Houston Remodeler
09-21-2015, 03:05 PM
This is one of the many reasons we recommend buying locally and fetching your own tiles.

09-21-2015, 03:26 PM
lesson learned.

MAPEI - Technical Service
09-21-2015, 03:40 PM
The finish shouldn't have anything to do with the size of the tile unless the shiny finish is rectified and the natural finish is not. Even then, chances are good that you aren't going to receive a full 12"x24" tile, the vast majority of tiles sold are 30CMx60CM which is in the neighborhood of 11.8"x23.6". The nominal size is what the tile covers with a grout joint.

09-21-2015, 04:01 PM
I understand and agree that the tiles won't be full size. I simply thought the that the final measurement which is 11 7/16 x 23 (just measured the actual tile, size in my original post was the size on the box) was much too heavy handed to accommodate a grout line and to be sold as 12x24.

I pulled the tile spec sheet and the polished comes sells 11 5/8 x 23 1/4, and the natural finish comes in 12x24. Both of these are nominal sizes but are marketed as 12x24.

Here's the PDF See page 38 of the pdf (

It sounds like I was off base with my thinking so I'm going to have to deal with what I have.

Houston Remodeler
09-21-2015, 04:03 PM
Most often we hear of deliveries where the tiles are of different dye lots.

Then comes the matter of broken / chipped tiles.

MAPEI - Technical Service
09-22-2015, 08:37 AM
Wow, sure enough, the finish does make a difference. Still, the 12x24 they're stating is nominal, the 30CMx60CM calculates to the dimensions I state above.

If it makes you feel better, Marca Corona is an excellent tile producer, I've been in their factory and they make very high quality products.

09-22-2015, 07:26 PM
Roger: what you are going through is a perfectly normal part of the tile industry. Much like when you go to the yard for a 2x4 you're not getting anywhere near those dimensions.

Also the 25% re-stocking fee is fairly common in the industry. It's more of a return discouragement fee, because really it doesn't cost $200 to move a pallet with a forklift.

09-23-2015, 05:06 PM
I'm building a Kerdi shower and have purchased a Kerdi Niche. I plan on using Kerdi Jolly .5" profiles for the edge of the niche.

Attached is a diagram of what I'm currently looking at. As you can see the tiles to the right and left will overlap the opening of the Kerdi niche.

So, I guess I have a couple questions.

Since my niche is wider than my tile, I'm guessing I'll need to build up the thinset or something so the niche tile and the profile line up flush with the outside tile to make a nice 90. What's the best way to do this?

Secondly, if this is indeed possible. Where would you guys suggest I put the groutlines around the niche and profiles? Do I need them?

Thanks in advance.

Houston Remodeler
09-23-2015, 05:40 PM

Great pic ! :bow:

The profiles do make casing the niche a lot easier and neater. Your call.

Normally we install the niche after tiling has started so the grout joints align perfectly. Why not make the niche the size of a full tile ?

You can build up the sides with ceement board, foam board, or any material that is structurally sound when wet. Thinset has a maximum working depth of 1/4 inch.

09-23-2015, 05:50 PM
Normally we install the niche after tiling has started so the grout joints align perfectly. Why not make the niche the size of a full tile ?

I have no idea how to install the niche after tiling has started. I only have access to the interior of the wall from one side. Here's my process so far, feel free to tell me if I'm doing it wrong.

1) Plumb up the shower walls by sistering studs.
2) Frame in the niche and drop that baby in there.
3) Sheetrock
4) Kerdi
5) Tile

I guess I'm confused on how to add the niche after I've done all this without destroying my kerdi.

Reason I'm not doing it a full tile height is because I bought the Kerdi niche and 12x20 is the size it came in. I'd love to have one the exact size of the tile. But that would mean I need to build it out of kerdi board. Correct?

edit...what do you mean by working depth?


Houston Remodeler
09-23-2015, 06:18 PM
Read this ( (ignore the leaking part, that's been fixed)

Thinset should be no more than 1/4 inch thick

09-23-2015, 06:33 PM
I've actally seen this. Very good info. But what if your niche isn't in the corner? How do you support it, if your studs aren't exactly where they need to be in order to line up perfectly with the tile/grout lines. That's where I always got hung up.

Thanks again!

Houston Remodeler
09-23-2015, 06:42 PM
Doesn't really matter. You prep the studded area with wiggle room all around so the niche can shift as the tiles get to their final location. Then build up the sides as needed, put in wall studding / 2x4's as needed. Glue the 2x4 to the drywall on the opposite drywall and screw to the shower side. The screws get covered with banding.

09-23-2015, 07:13 PM
So kinda the same idea as this technique of patching drywall?

09-23-2015, 08:36 PM
Maybe a better question would be...Can I do something like the image I posted for the pre-built kerdi niche?

Houston Remodeler
09-24-2015, 01:20 PM
Yes as in the picture, but with a niche length 2x4 piece with the edge screwed into the drywall (as a normal wall stud)

Yes you can use the kerdi niche, but you might find cutting the flange off / altering the flange easier.

09-24-2015, 01:21 PM
Awesome. Thanks again. I really appreciate your help.

Houston Remodeler
09-24-2015, 01:29 PM
To keep a 2x4 from dropping down the wall cavity, attach a screw to the open side as a handle. Once the stud is screwed into place, remove the handle- screw.

09-24-2015, 01:33 PM
Good thinkin...

You really have me thinking on how i can make this niche a full tile size. I'm considering cutting and lengthening the niche by a couple inches and filling the void in the niche with kerdi board. Stupid idea?

Houston Remodeler
09-24-2015, 01:37 PM
That's how we build them; too wide and too tall to begin with, then fill in as needed. Unless you can make precision cuts counting for the thickness of the tiles + thinset and figuring if the side tiles tuck behind the wall tiles or go next to them. We usually allow 1/2" space on the jambs for the side and top tiles to fit in. The bottom tile can be either set in or hang over the lower wall tile as in the case of a window sill.

09-24-2015, 01:41 PM
Got it. Thanks a million. I'll post a pic (unless i have a disaster, then I'll post many)

10-03-2015, 09:24 AM
I've started installing the kerdi for my neo angle shower. I'm concerned about how far my kerdi should extend past my shower inclosure. My current enclosure's inside width is 34 3/8". The width of my tile shower is 36 1/4 and my kerdi extends out about 35 3/4".

I'm concerned about water seeping behind the tile and then behind the shower door, then making it's way to the wall. Should I be concerned? I've attached a diagram of what I'm talking about.

Any suggestions?

edit// I should note, the glass will butt up against the tile in the shower, the diagram makes it look like I'm leaving a gap.

10-05-2015, 01:39 PM
In the event somebody needs to know in the future...

I spoke with Schluter this morning and they said as long as the Kerdi is outside the glass/wet area, I don't need to worry about it.

10-08-2015, 09:13 AM
An intersection of 4 tiles are lined up with my shower valve (large format tile) any suggestions on how to cut a hole? Can I use my tile saw and cut notches?

10-08-2015, 01:47 PM
You can do it that way, I do it like that often. Sometimes I use an angle grinder with a diamond blade on it. It's a little faster. Depends on how far away my trailer is parked from my work site. :)

10-12-2015, 12:14 PM
When I skim coated my ceiling and walls, some joint compound fell on my concrete slab. Though it doesn't look like it. I've scrapped off everything, but there is still some that has absorbed into the concrete. Is it detrimental that I remove every last bit of this stuff, or is it ok to apply my thin set on top of it for my pan and mosaic floor?

10-12-2015, 04:38 PM
Some warm water and a sponge will go a long way to getting that floor cleaned up.

10-12-2015, 04:39 PM
I feel stupid. I just did that and it's good now.

10-13-2015, 10:39 AM
I've been trying to preplan before I start my tiling. I've read that the shower pan tiles should be put down first and then the bottom row of wall tile.

How about the top of the curb. Should this also go down first and have the wall tile sit on top of it?

Houston Remodeler
10-13-2015, 10:47 AM

We normally tile the floor after the walls (we have mighty strong gravity here in Texas) , then the curb sides then the curb top.

But you can tile in any order you prefer. Just remember the tile setters rule;

Where you set the first tile determines where you set the last tile

10-13-2015, 10:48 AM
Good advice. I'll remember that.

Thanks again for your help.

10-14-2015, 03:05 PM
So I wanted to cut my kerdi curb down to be 4 inches. I did so on my bandsaw and everything went smooth. Except for the fact my floor isn't level and I'd like to add back about 1/4" back to one side to level it out.

Can I rip a 1/4" strip from the scrap styrofoam and use it as a shim? I'm assuming I'll need to glue it together somehow. I don't want to spend another $50 on one of these if I don't have to. I'd like to salvage what I have.


edit // I guess another option would be to use a little more mortar under one side to lift it a bit. But I've learned from my thread, regular thinset won't cut it since it is going to be thicker than 1/4" when I'm all said and done.

Can I use a different product to attach it to my slab?

10-14-2015, 10:07 PM

Another option would be for me to use a floor leveling compound. Would this be more work than it's worth? Any suggestions would be great! Thank you.

10-15-2015, 01:06 AM
Do you need it to be 4" tall? Could you cut another 1/4" off the high end and make it 3 3/4" up to 4"?

It sounds like any way you cut it, one end is going to be taller, unless you level the floor first.

10-15-2015, 11:01 AM
Do you need it to be 4" tall? Could you cut another 1/4" off the high end and make it 3 3/4" up to 4"?

It sounds like any way you cut it, one end is going to be taller, unless you level the floor first.

That's a good idea. I think I am going to go ahead and just use some leveling compound and see what happens. Might as well try to do it right.

10-15-2015, 03:37 PM
You'll have to build up some forms to get that to work correctly, and they should be sealed to the floor to keep the SLC from oozing out from underneath.

10-15-2015, 03:41 PM
It's about a 45 sq/ft bathroom. I'm thinking I'll just do the whole floor for kicks. I was going to put in some forms at each doorway transition like you are saying.

Home Depot was out of leveling compound so I picked up this stuff ( my local supplier. Also bit the bullet and bought the primer. (stuff is expensive!)

10-15-2015, 03:56 PM
The primer is a must, you can't get by without it.

And while the NXT is expensive, it's a good product. I'd get a helper to assist with the mixing, and have everything on hand and ready to go before you mix anything. Follow the mixing instructions to the letter, and be prepared to work quickly once you get started.

10-15-2015, 03:57 PM
The primer is a must, you can't get by without it.

And while the NXT is expensive, it's a good product. I'd get a helper to assist with the mixing, and have everything on hand and ready to go before you mix anything. Follow the mixing instructions to the letter, and be prepared to work quickly once you get started.

Yeah, I'm glad I picked it up. The guy at the store told me I didn't need it, but I read otherwise so I picked some up this morning.

10-16-2015, 06:56 PM
I'm getting ready to do my mud shower pan. Is this the right stuff ( + sand?

10-16-2015, 07:08 PM
Yes, that's portland cement. You can use All Purpose sand with that portland if you want. 5 equal parts of sand to 1 cement.

I assume you're still building a Kerdi shower. In that case over a concrete slab, you'll want to bond that dry pack mud bed with a slurry of thinset on the slab just before dropping the cement in place.

10-16-2015, 07:18 PM
That's right. Thanks for reminding me. Appreciate the quick response!

10-18-2015, 01:51 PM
I purchased John's book in hopes of getting some insight on how to apply a kerdi membrane to a neo-angle curb. Unfortunately it is only briefly mentioned where he talks about a 5 sided kerdi band. But there isn't any guidance on how to create this. My hang up is on the inside of the top of the curb on the 135 angles. Here's what I have so far and the shape of kerdi band I am thinking of using for the top. Then just use some kerdi fix in the corners... Can somebody help me, I'm kinda stuck....

10-20-2015, 10:49 AM
I used a SLC for my bathroom floor before installing my shower pan and curb. I'm now getting ready to tile my floor but I notice a 2'x2' area where there is a dip in the floor it drops maybe 1/4". I'm going to be using mosaic on the floor so I would like to fix this spot. Is there a readily available product I can use to float this area out.

I've done a bunch of searching and many of the responses are to tear out the SLC, I don't see this as an option at this point since the curb and pan are already in. A few other people are mentioning to float it out with thinset. What's the best way to deal with this in my situation?

10-25-2015, 08:28 PM
Is there a trick to taking a small sliver (1/8") off the length of 12" porcelain tile? When every I try I think my blade bows a bit and I can't get a straight cut. I always end up moving much more material at the start of the cut. I'm using a harbor freight 10" saw and I a QEP blade...

Houston Remodeler
10-25-2015, 08:34 PM
I'm using a harbor freight 10" saw and I a QEP blade

I think we've found the source of your problems.

Search this forum for the dewalt dip method of cutting tiles from the top down

10-25-2015, 10:03 PM
I figured since my blade has a bad ass spider graphic on it, it could take all comers. My mistake. 😀 I think I'll pick up an alpha, even though the graphics are mediocre at best.


Houston Remodeler
10-25-2015, 10:07 PM
You can fix that with a Sharpie.

10-25-2015, 10:15 PM
Solid advice. That's why I like this place.

10-30-2015, 11:02 AM
I customized my prebuilt kerdi niche to fit a full tile for my install. I thought I had done everything correctly, but the box is leaking.

I laid a piece of kerdi membrane on the inside of the box and then used kerdi band on the edge seams. I waited 24 hrs and then filled it with water to see if it leaked, when I looked at it last night you could see a small puddle of water on the ground where it leaked. You can see the leaking areas on the back of the box also.

I'm obviously going to scrap this and I'll probably just build one out of kerdi board, but like I said, I'm a little concerned about the effectiveness of kerdi at least with my install.

10-30-2015, 12:37 PM
Hi Roger.

Lets keep all your questions about this project right here so we can all follow along. Thanks. :)

My guess is too many seams, and one was missed. Down at the CTEF, there was a kerdi lined cardboard box built that served as our cooler while we were down there - they do work when done properly. Check this out and you'll do better next time. :tup1:

Regarding the rest of the shower, check all the seams, and flood test. Let us know what you find.

From the "liberry"

10-30-2015, 12:43 PM
Thanks for the pdf.

I only have 4 seams and it is leaking out of 3 of them...I must have made an error somehow, but I don't understand what I'm doing wrong. Like I say it's concerning since my entire shower is band and membrane over sheetrock.

10-30-2015, 12:50 PM
You'd probably have a easier time and better seams if you were to use Kerdifix there.

10-30-2015, 12:55 PM
Did you flood test? :)

10-30-2015, 01:52 PM
Did you flood test? :)

Certainly did. But I imagine only a larger leak would show in just 24hrs. I'm on slab so if I had a very small leak, I wouldn't know if there is a leak or not.

10-30-2015, 01:56 PM
You'd probably have a easier time and better seams if you were to use Kerdifix there.

I'm going to go buy some kerdi board and do just that.

Jim Cordes
10-30-2015, 03:57 PM
ok i didnt read the whole thread here but the last three questions.

As far as I know there is not real proper way to do the neo angle with kerdi. I didnt buy Johns book(sorry John) so I cant help you there. The way I do them is by cutting the pan material and flapping it over the curb then applying a piece of kerdi band the best I can to cover the open part..then smear kerdi fix over that..not an exact science..and I sure do wish Schluter would sell 22.5 corners but as far as I am aware they do not.

second question:Dip in SLC...providing your SLC is well bonded then I would not remove have mosiacs that will contour to the dip..which is remove the dip get a screed(2x4 or something) and use some thinset and float it off..make sure it hardens before you set the mosiacs..plenty of floor patches will work but why buy something more when you have the thinset on hand.

OK cutting a trick is to get another piece of tile and abut it against the first to make the saw think its one piece of tile..hold them together as you cut and it will keep the cut straight.

oops i responded to old post..sorry

10-30-2015, 05:20 PM
They do have some 135 degree corners, made to cover the area where a corner bench meets the wall.

10-30-2015, 05:49 PM
As far as I know there is not real proper way to do the neo angle with kerdi. I didnt buy Johns book(sorry John) so I cant help you there. The way I do them is by cutting the pan material and flapping it over the curb then applying a piece of kerdi band the best I can to cover the open part..then smear kerdi fix over that..not an exact science..and I sure do wish Schluter would sell 22.5 corners but as far as I am aware they do not.

They do have the corners now Jim. I didn't realize it until I went to a workshop last spring. But, you can definitely pull off a neo angle without the prefab corners, with full approval by Herr Schluter. :)

Dan Kramer
10-30-2015, 08:36 PM
Tough to say on the niche leak because it is hard to see, but it appears as if you have no kerdi corners and your kerdi band doesn't run the full length of the box on the top and bottom as it does on the sides.

10-30-2015, 11:19 PM
If the water level didn't drop during the flood test, you're gonna be fine. :tup1:

Remember that during normal use, water is rushing to the drain and never accumulates in the shower. The flood test simulates more pressure on your kerdi system than the shower will ever see again during normal use.

That said, I've also used Kerdi Fix on any suspect areas just for added insurance - it makes us all feel better to "make sure" with those sorts of things. :)

11-02-2015, 10:53 AM
Thanks for all the comments guys. I went ahead and ditched the niche and built a new one out of kerdi board and everything went well. I really appreciate the help.

On the install of the new niche, I noticed one of the flaps of my kerdi band I'm using is lifting up. I must have squeezed out all the thinset.

I don't want to tear everything out, if I don't have to. This is the only spot that didn't adhere what is the best way to remedy this? Can I spread additional thinset under this to re attach?

11-02-2015, 12:33 PM
You can try that, but you may find that you end up pulling up even more trying to get underneath it. If that starts to happen, I'd cut it loose at the point where it starts to come loose, then attach a new piece that overlaps the cut by at least 2".

11-03-2015, 12:22 PM
Thank you. I ended up just patching it with some kerdi band. When I built the new box, it was a perfect size. Now with all the buildup in the corners...not so much. It is going to be a challenge to get my profiles to fit in correctly.

11-04-2015, 10:16 AM
Hey! New Problem!!!

How Do I Fix My out of Level Ceiling Corner?

In my corner shower. I didn't realize before I started installing the tile that the corner is 3/8" higher than the outside of the tile.

The ceilings and walls are already finished/painted with the exception of the top row of tiles.

Can I float out some mud from the corner? If so, what mud should I use? Durabond?

Because of the way I'm building my shower, I would prefer not to use any trim pieces along the top.

Thanks for your help!

11-04-2015, 10:34 AM
Hi Larry, how far up are you on the wall tiling? If you're not close to the ceiling yet, you may be able to gain a little vertical height on each row by cheating your grout line a little so you could trim a bit off each top tile like below.

You could also add an accent row to force your top tile up a bit so you can trim.

11-04-2015, 10:37 AM
They are 24" tiles so unless I make the last grout line 1/2" wide, I won't be able to make it work. :)

I messed up on my bottom row by cutting them an inch short to accommodate my shower valve. Never thinking what it was doing to my top row. :bonk:

11-04-2015, 02:58 PM
Ah, yes, you can only do that if you have many grout lines that can add up a bunch of little cheats.

How about a contrasting or matching accent bar about a half inch or inch wide below the top row?

11-04-2015, 04:17 PM
That's certainly an option. Would it be stupid to just float the ceiling out?

11-04-2015, 04:51 PM
Can you step back as far as possible from the shower and snap a pic? Try to show all the walls and the ceiling in one picture if possible.

11-04-2015, 05:04 PM
the bathroom is really small so this is the best I could do...

11-04-2015, 07:34 PM
It's the inside corner where the two tiled walls come together where the ceiling rises? Is it in inverted "dip" in the corner, or is the ceiling on plane but just tilted? You could determine that by putting a straight edge on the ceiling in both directions and see if there is a gap anywhere between the straight edge and the ceiling drywall.

11-04-2015, 07:50 PM
exactly...yes it's an inverted dip

11-04-2015, 07:54 PM
I'd try to float it out then to bring it to plane.

I would use a setting type joint compound like Durabond. I've done that before with really good results, but it took me a lot more coats than it would have taken a drywall pro. Don't try to do it all in one coat. I wouldn't recommend a crazy fast setting compound either, I'd be happy with 90 minute and just plan on it taking a while to make it right. You don't want a wonky ceiling detracting from your tile job, which is looking good by the way. :)

11-09-2015, 11:54 AM
I am tiling around my niche and it appears the left vertical side of the niche has been built out too far. Can I use a couple layers of Kerdi on the right-hand vertical side to even them out? I am using a Schlueter profile so I need a solid surface for it to rest on.

11-09-2015, 12:13 PM
I wouldn't hesitate to do so Roger. :)

11-09-2015, 12:18 PM
Perfect. Thanks for replying!

11-09-2015, 12:19 PM
I'd try to float it out then to bring it to plane.

I would use a setting type joint compound like Durabond. I've done that before with really good results, but it took me a lot more coats than it would have taken a drywall pro. Don't try to do it all in one coat. I wouldn't recommend a crazy fast setting compound either, I'd be happy with 90 minute and just plan on it taking a while to make it right. You don't want a wonky ceiling detracting from your tile job, which is looking good by the way. :)

This ended up working great. I only floated out the ceiling a few inches from the corner and it is virtually undetectable.
Thanks for the help!

12-10-2015, 10:27 AM
I'm getting very close to completion on my project. My last step is the shower enclosure.

I started installing the side panels and the instructions call for a bead of silicone under the track that meets the vertical wall. I notice there is a small amount of cupping and in some cases a very slight amount of lipage which leaves a very small gap between the tile and the wall track.

My question is, would it be a problem if I were to run a bead of silicone along the track/wall on the inside? I'm probably ok not doing so, but I'm just concerned about the screws that go through the tile and into the wall. I want to make sure I'm protecting them as best as possible.

This is the enclosure I'm using. (


edit: photo rotated 90 CC

12-10-2015, 12:52 PM
The way to protect those screw penetrations is to fill the hole with silicone before inserting the screw.

I wouldn't silicone the inside part of the track, because you want any moisture that gets in there to have a way out.

12-14-2015, 10:37 AM
Sounds good. Thanks!

12-30-2015, 12:11 PM
Thanks to everybody for helping me through my first project. Here's some pics of the final product. This forum has been an amazing resource.

Thanks again!

High-Res Album Here (

12-30-2015, 01:32 PM
Very very nice. I like it. :tup1:

12-30-2015, 03:35 PM
Thank you, I'm glad it's done. I won't quit my day job. :)

Houston Remodeler
12-30-2015, 04:54 PM
Very nice :bow:

12-30-2015, 04:58 PM
Very nice :bow:

Thanks Paul. You were a great help. I used your niche method and it worked out well.

12-30-2015, 06:16 PM
I agree, nice looking job. :tup1:

12-31-2015, 11:16 AM
I agree, nice looking job. :tup1:

Thanks Davy. I really appreciated your advice.