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subiescott
04-04-2015, 08:27 AM
I'm also running into the same situation, on the right side of my shower. On my left side, it is a flush wall where the transition from drywall to concrete board happens just past the curb. I have 4x11.5 bullnose tiles, which I was planning on running the outside perimeter of the shower. The normal tile would then run up to the bullnose on the left wall. On the right, the concrete board runs past to the edge of the curb and overlaps drywall, which then forms a 90-degree bend. I was thinking of doing the same as the left wall. Running tile to the bullnose pieces which would then bend out and around that corner. Does that make sense? Haha. Pictures as follows...

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cx
04-04-2015, 08:45 AM
Welcome, Scott. :)

I've moved you from that other visitor's old project thread to a project thread of your own to prevent confusion both places.

I think if you'd back up and show is a photo to give some perspective on your shower it would help.

Not sure what you might mean by "bend out around that corner," but you're not gonna get any "bend' from any ceramic tile, eh?

Davy
04-04-2015, 08:56 AM
A pic of the right wall at the bottom would help. If the outside of the curb is inline with the corner, you'll need to wrap the corner.

subiescott
04-04-2015, 12:33 PM
Hello all, my apologies if this is in the wrong section. I've recently undertaken remodeling my small bathroom and doing a custom tile shower. The back wall is already tiled and now the left & right sides are up next. The issue I'm having is figuring out how to utilize my 4x11.5" bull nose end pieces on the transitions from the concrete board to the drywall.

As you'll see in the pictures attached, my left wall is a flush transition. From the concrete board to a patched piece of 1/2" drywall, to the 5/8" existing drywall. The concrete board on that particular wall runs to the very outside edge of the curb.

On the right wall, the concrete board runs to the outside of the shower curb as well. However, my issue being it then makes a 90-degree bend whereupon drywall is behind the lip of the concrete board. That then ends into the corner of the existing wall.

My overall question is, what is the best way to deal with keeping everything in line. That is, up the left wall, tile across the ceiling, and down the right wall...all with the bull nose. Ideas? Thanks in advance!

Tool Guy - Kg
04-04-2015, 01:13 PM
Hi Scott,

Between the pics and what I'm reading, you're generating more questions than what you're asking. Perhaps numbering your questions will help. :)

1) The first question I'm seeing is "How to use my bullnoses to transition around the corner and terminate the tile?":
You'll likely use two rows of bullnoses at the vertical outside corners. One inside the shower and one outside....or both outside the shower with one rounded edge located at the outside corner and one at the transition to the drywall.

2) The second question I'm seeing is "How do I keep everything in line?":
You'll want to use a straightedge to draw a line on the ceiling from the outside left corner to the outside right corner. This will give you a termination point of the field tile on the ceiling that will keep your tiling grid "square". If your left wall doesn't include an outside corner (which I'm now thinking it doesn't), then you'll want to measure out from your back wall to the right corner and transfer that measurement to the left wall so that you can make your straight "square" line on the ceiling. Does this answer your question, or are you referring to another question that I'm missing? At first, I couldn't tell if you were referring to the heights of the bullnoses referenced from right to left......or if you were referring to the flatness of a "plane" surface.....or......?

3) A question for you: since you've got an existing left wall that is 5/8" in thickness, any reason you aren't using 1/8" furring strips behind the 1/2" Durock to make both equal and flush to each other?

4) Another question for you: Are you using plastic or roofing felt behind your Durock brand cement board?

:)

Davy
04-04-2015, 01:16 PM
Hi Scott. It's hard to say without seeing the curb and if the outside of the curb is inline with the small 3 inch section of wall on the right.

subiescott
04-04-2015, 01:33 PM
Here's a better photo for you guys, from a few days back. The curb runs to each side, so the face of the curb would continue to that right 90-degree. Yeah I guess I am creating more questions then what I thought. The difference in drywall and concrete board thickness never occurred to me but I was always under the impression by adding moetor under the tile, it would be offset from the wall anyway.

subiescott
04-04-2015, 01:46 PM
So after making a straight edge on each side and across the ceiling....could I technically put the back side of the bull nose on that line? Given I'd like my bull nose to run up to and over the 90-degree, could I have the bull nose on the left side extend out past the curb? If that makes any sense. I was hoping to use the bull nose on the left to cover the drywall to drywall to concrete board seams. Kind of like this....

Davy
04-04-2015, 01:56 PM
Okay, with the outside face of the curb inline with the small 3-4 inch section of wall on the right, That will help. Set a BN tile on top of the curb and slide it all the way over till it hits the right wall. Place another tile on the face of the curb (use a skinny piece of scrap) letting the top piece over hang the face piece. Now draw a small line on the right wall along the edge of the bullnose. Using a level, extend this line up the right wall to the ceiling. The edge of the bullnose should go against this line all the way up leaving enough space for a row of tiles to go around the corner on the 3 inch wall. Let me say this. If that corner is not plumb, this line may have to be moved out some.

It's actually pretty simple, just hard to explain. The ceiling and left wall should be inline with the right wall.

Davy
04-04-2015, 02:01 PM
It took me a while to word that last post so you posted ahead of me. The left wall can be brought out as far as you want. That last pic doesn't have a tiled ceiling, yours does. Extending your left wall out past the ceiling may look odd. That's why I like to keep the ceiling and two side walls in line.

Don't be afraid to do some measuring. Measure from the curb to the back wall, left and right sides and hopefully these measurements match. Measure the same at the ceiling, back wall to the front edge. The more all this is out of size and out of square, the more grief you'll have tiling the ceiling and keeping the joints lined up. A way to avoid that is to run different size tiles on the ceiling or maybe on a 45 instead of square.

subiescott
04-04-2015, 02:58 PM
I gotcha, Davy. That makes a lot of sense, my cousin and I were already dry fitting tiles on the curb....just never thought about running the top tile against the wall and tracing that line. I also see what you mean about extending the left wall out. I need to essentially follow the right wall line Would it be easier to do the walls then curb?

subiescott
04-04-2015, 03:01 PM
Would I need to replace the drywall on the right corner, or would it be fine putting the bull nose on it? I thought I would have one bull nose with the rounded edge on the drywall, then another bull nose on the concrete board side to finish over that previous bull nose rough edge. If that makes sense. How should I go about dealing with the left wall where the drywall seams are? Your help is greatly appreciated!

Davy
04-04-2015, 09:37 PM
On the right wall, since that's outside the shower area, you can stick those tiles right to the sheetrock on that 3-4 inch wall. You can either use a bullnose there or cover the whole 3-4 inches with field tile all the way to the corner.

On the left wall, I would finish off the sheetrock with whatever the bathroom walls are. I wouldn't extend the tiles out that far just to avoid texture and paint. Like you said, the left wall should extend out the same distance as the right wall. Place a tile on the outside face of the curb and that's how far out the left wall should come out, same as the right wall.

I like to tile the curb after the walls but it doesn't matter.

Steve in Denver
04-05-2015, 12:05 AM
4) Another question for you: Are you using plastic or roofing felt behind your Durock brand cement board?

I seen this question, but I ain't seen no answer yet. What say ye, Mr. Subie?

subiescott
04-06-2015, 06:16 AM
I have like 8mm plastic behind the durock on the outside wall of the house, the other remaining walls have nothing behind or on.

subiescott
04-06-2015, 06:17 AM
Thanks everyone for the help, though!

Steve in Denver
04-06-2015, 06:58 AM
The reason for the question (and prodding) about what is behind the durock is because you need to have some sort of waterproofing system. From the pictures we can tell that there isn't one applied to the surface (redgard, kerdi, etc), hence the question about plastic or roofing felt behind the Durock.

Given that you don't have anything behind the other two walls, now is a good time to stop work and evaluate what has been done vs. what ought to be done and determine how to proceed. Not great news, I know. Fixing it now is certainly easier than fixing it later - assuming the shower still looks about like the picture you posted.

The other questions that the pros are going to ask relate to if and how you waterproofed the pan. Pictures of the build earlier in the process will be most helpful. The big questions, assuming you used a liner / clamping drain for the pan, will focus on what is under the liner (is there a pre-slope), how the curb was handled (with particular attention to corners) and the location of any nails or screws (or anything else) that may puncture the liner.