Jack on Jack Layout? [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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03-08-2004, 09:01 AM
First of all..... this place is a great source of information. Thanks to all!

I'm tiling my remodeled bathroom with 12x12 porcelain tiles. Basically just the 3' wide section in front of the sinks and a walk in closet. My wife and I layed them out this weekend and we both decided on a jack on jack pattern on an angle. Our question is this..... Is there a "standard" angle to set these at or should we just go with what looks good to us? Second, any tricks to laying this pattern quickly?

Thanks again!!!


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03-08-2004, 09:31 AM
Welcome to the Forum Chris: We have quite a few pros here that will be able to help you out. Sit tight, have another cup of coffee, and we'll get someone over here as soon as possible. :)

03-08-2004, 11:21 AM
Allright Chris, could you edumucate me as to what a 'jack on jack' pattern is? Not familiar with that terminology round these parts. Muchas gracias.

...and welcome to the forum. :)

03-08-2004, 11:27 AM
It's the same pattern brick is layed with. Staggered joints at the half way point of each tile.

ooo ooo ooo ooo
ooo ooo ooo

But I want to put in on a diagonal. Well, don't want to cuz it'll be a royal pain but . . . . it'll look cool. :D


03-08-2004, 11:28 AM
OK, that didn't show up like I had typed it. Move the bottom layer over half a brick.

John Bridge
03-08-2004, 06:26 PM
Howdy, Chris. :)

That pattern is called "broken joint" or "running bond." I think you should go at 45 degrees. Looks good and makes cutting a little easier that some other angle. The only other common angle used in construction is 30 degrees.

There's a pictrure or a variation of that pattern in our album: http://johnbridge.com/bathroom_projects.htm

03-09-2004, 08:02 AM
Thanks John, that looks good. I think we like the look of the staggered joint centered on the next tile though but that's exactly what I was looking for.

Second question. I put some river rock stones (on mesh) in the shower floor and grouted last night. (up till 1:00 am) I don't think it was a good idea to start at 10 pm but I wanted to get the counter, and sinks installed. :rolleyes: Anyway, I'll want to seal the grout after it cures and I like the "wet" look of the stones as I was grouting (cleaing off the grout). Does the stuff you sell in the TYW store do both?

I already bought the Felker T-75 last week and love it!! Too many years of using a little box saw! I'd order that sealer today if it'd do both in one simple step.

Third question. I was looking at the "anchoring glass block" thread and didn't really see what I was planning so here it goes. You can answer there if you'd preffer. My wall will be between the tub and the shower. Anchored on the bottom and on the wall with the shower head (taking a shower it would be on your left - existing exterior glass block window on your right). Bottom wall will be about 2' tall so the actual dimensions of the glass block wall is about 38" wide by 60" tall. The exterior window has no grout lines (put together with silicone adhesive) so it lets a LOT of light through. I want to do the same thing with this little wall to let the light through. Trouble with the silicone method is that it has to be "put together" laying flat. I was wondering if I could build it in place, one row at a time (per day) and use a grout bag to fill the voids with glass block cement. This would allow me to embed the anchor strips into something in between the blocks. Do you think this would work or would it be too difficult to keep it plumb as it's being built?

Shwew!!!!:drool2: Now that you're all asleep......

I was going to stop by the place that helped me do the exterior window and get their ideas but you guys are SOOOOOOOOO smart about such things! Really, you all helped me do my first mud bed shower floor!! Turned out great so far. My wife even kinda wanted to keep the bright orange PVC liner. She wanted to put up a blue one on the walls for Bronco's colors!!!!

Thanks again for all your help.... hello? hello? is anyone still there? Great, they're still asleep. :)


03-09-2004, 08:57 AM
I built my glass block wall in the manner that you described. Using the silicone and one row (or I think I was able to mangage 2) before they got too slippery and didn't want to stack straight.

That said, I'm still working on my shower and it hasn't been leak tested from the inside....


03-09-2004, 08:35 PM
Hi Chris, you'll want the Stone Beauty sealer, it's a color enhancer.
I'd feel better using the mortar between the glass blocks since it's going to be that big.

03-18-2004, 08:46 AM
OK, I'm putting off the glass block vs. glass pane question until I get the shower tiled.

The last shower I did I used mastic to set the wall tiles because that was the advice I was given (not here). Everyone here seems to prefer thinset.

Question: Do I need to mix the thinset a little stiffer than normal to keep the tiles from "sliding" down the wall? I usally only mix enough to lay about 30 sf at a time as I like the thinset to be pretty stiff.

Thanks for your help. I can't remember why most people here preferred thinset over mastic so if you can refresh my memory that would help too!

Oh, I did lay the floor last weekend (I cut, my wife set) and it looks great. Set it with the broken joint and at a 30 degree angle. Took a bit of work but it was worth it. As soon as I empty the camera I'll post a pic.

Thanks again

03-18-2004, 11:25 AM
Mastic is a shower is not advised because it is water soluble - meaning that under constant exposure to water, the bond will break and the rest is history.

Thinset is not really a preference...it's a requirement for a long lasting install


03-18-2004, 11:35 AM
Don't try to get the thinset too stiff, you will lose some open time, and you may have a little trouble with lippage. You need to support the tiles with spacers or masking tape. The first row may be supported with a strip of wood lightly tacked to the wall, or on stacks of scrap materials. Check your work with a level every so often. Check the vertical groutlines, too. Tiles are not completely uniform, and spacers do nothing to correct it when your lines start going wild.

Good idea to start with small batches of thinset until you see how things go.