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Old 02-28-2012, 09:36 PM   #106
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I just used some of the 30% lighter stuff. It was like the rice krispie treat version of drywall. A cross section looks like the inside of a Nestle Crunch bar. You could hear the snap, crackle, and pop of the stress on the screw heads for a few hours. It was an odd experience. It seemed to not be as strong, but I have no proof.
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Old 02-28-2012, 09:56 PM   #107
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Any doubts about tiling on it?
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:06 PM   #108
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once it was painted I couldn't tell the difference. We used kerdi board for the wet areas
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:13 PM   #109
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Is the only wet area in a typical house the tub/shower surround? All other walls/floor in bathroom and the entire kitchen are not considered wet from what I have read. How come people don't just say around a shower instead of wet areas? What other wet area could there be, an in home waterfall? lol
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:57 PM   #110
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Wet areas are divided into different categories depending on how wet they get, how often they get wet, and how hard they get used and are defined in industry standards.

Some examples of various potential wet areas; laundry rooms, bathrooms, backsplashes, counter tops, pool rooms, tub walls, fountains, steam rooms, partially enclosed porches, garages, etc...
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:20 PM   #111
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Interesting I guess they are varying degrees of wetness. eg - a kitchen backsplash and bathroom walls not including shower/tub surround can have tile directly on drywall whereas a steam room might need waterproofing.
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:41 PM   #112
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Yep, just a matter of degrees. Every job is different, and everyone uses their spaces differently from everyone else.

Using just one of your examples above- a kitchen backsplash where the customer hoses down the dishes with the sprayer several times a day had better be properly waterproofed even though minimum requirements don't require it.
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Old 07-29-2012, 03:55 PM   #113
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Hello all,

I have finished a lot of phases which gets me closer to my tiling job. Recently I've been installing cross bracing with glue and deck screws. I noticed that there are four fluorescent light fixtures in the middle spans in between joists. Whoever installed them must have removed the cross bracing. I have a few questions:

1) Can cross bracing be installed at both ends of the lights or does the cross bracing have to go right in the middle of the span? In this house the braces were installed in the middle of the spans originally.
2) If I leave the lights alone without braces until I have time to deal with it better in the future, will it affect my tiling job? (two of the lights are under the tiling field).

Thanks!
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Old 07-29-2012, 04:17 PM   #114
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Bracing on both sides of the lights is better than a centered single bracing.
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Old 07-29-2012, 04:50 PM   #115
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Is a single set of braces in the middle of the span good enough according to modern standards?
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Old 07-29-2012, 04:50 PM   #116
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And some of the decision would depend upon how necessary the cross-bracing was initially. And if you've sistered all those joists as earlier discussed, the cross-bracing may be of no significant value.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-29-2012, 05:25 PM   #117
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Yes all of the joists under the tiling field are doubled or tripled up. I did not realize that cross bracing was not necessary if you sister joists.

Do you think its a waste of time for me to finish installing the cross braces? I'm only half done so far.

Do you think it would be ok for me to put off installing it for where the lights are? I may replace those lights later anyway and would not like to block potential spots for lighting with the extra cross braces.
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:04 PM   #118
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Ok, I will do the cross bracing when I have some time to waste.

We started doing the 1/2" plywood on top of the 3/4" tongue and groove planks but ran into problems with the screws. We are using deckmate 1 1/4" deck screws. I deliberately chose this length of screw so we don't accidentally screw on joists. At any rate these screws have worked well for a lot of other projects but for this project they cannot seem to pull the plywood on to the tongue and groove. They will not countersink into the plywood and many times will just spin. I tried a 2" Grip Rite deck screw and it worked a lot better. The Grip Rite has some threads near the head but these Deckmates do not.

I went to Home Depot and the best screw I could find were 1 3/4" collated subfloor screws. I didn't purchase them since they will stick 1/2" under the tongue and groove possibly hitting joists if I am not super careful.

What do you guys recommend I should use? Do you guys know of any 1 1/4" screws I can find somewhere that will work?

Also I read a review for the 1 1/4" Deckmate screws and someone else seemed to have a similar experience:

"When used on the end of a Ryobi battery drill these strip out super easy and will not pull flush with soft plywood. I'm using these to attach 1" spruce to 1/2" ply. Thru the ply in to the spruce. Must counter sink to get head below surface. I have used another brand with great luck right next to these. Would not recommend for this type work."
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:12 PM   #119
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We use senco 1-1/4 collated screws for that stuff, John. You may need to predrill the ply or move the screws over a little til you hit a plank. Another option, get the 1-3/4 and lay out where the joists are, and miss them.
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:16 PM   #120
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I know for sure I was hitting planks dead on. Aren't the senco's drywall screws? Where can I get them (if they are not drywall screws)?

Also I looked at backerboard screws and they are threaded all the way up to the head which may work better in my situation. Is there any reason not to use 1 1/4" backerboard screws to screw plywood underlayment to tongue and groove subfloor?
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