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Old 11-20-2011, 11:28 AM   #76
chefwong
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Heh. I LOVE Hot Mud when doing sheetrock. Well, at least for the tape and second coat... It's harder too which is a +++..

Rapidset was intended for my 7x10 laundry room.
OK. Unmodified non rapid it is.
I was looking at Rapid just to accelerate.....the time required for the laundry room. Love to move appliances back in as soon as possible....
With the Ditra in play, looks to be at least 24++ hrs before grouting.
Especially with Porcelain/Ditra.....the spectralock won't allow it to breath as fast as regular grout.



Is Ditraset really the cats paw ?
I found one place per Bostiks product locator that carries it, have yet to call them to see if they actually stock this or not.

Otherwise, it's Kerabond or Megabond which are a hop skip away from me.
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:40 PM   #77
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Can one move heavy appliances on Ditra with the waffles filled ? I'm talking like a washer/dryer .....where I'm moving the stuff out of the laundry room.
I'm laying down Ditra on the entire floor, filling in waffles and the only room that will get tiled is the laundry room.

If I leave the appliances in a corner.....and when all said and done, I move the appliances back via a appliance handtruck and I DONT lay plywood, is it okay..
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:48 PM   #78
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Alan, let me ask you hopefully for the last time to please keep your project questions on your project thread and not attach then to a years-old thread about a similar subject. Can we do that?

I would not recommend moving anything over the newly installed Ditra, even filled Ditra. Nor directly over even a seasoned Ditra installation, for that matter.

You might get away with laying some heavy plywood over it, but I think you'd be better served by arranging your work schedule such that it wasn't necessary.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:41 PM   #79
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Fair enough. But the thread was on-topic with the question as a whole...

Hopefully, some pros see this post....

I'm in a bind....as I was planning to start this Friday with the long weekend ahead.

Going down the checklist
Kerabond - Check
Rapidset - Check
Mapecem (screed mortar) - Check

I realized I DID not get their latex additive to make a bonding slurry.
I'm sure the supply shops are closed this Friday.......but I will check.

Can I intermix a Latricrete latex additive with Mapecem to create the bonding slurry. Laticrete Megabond Latex Additive is available at Lowes and for sure they will be open this Friday....Can I intermix a latex additive from another company -- eeks...

Option 2 if I'm reading their tech sheet, is any *polymer modified rapidset mortar* . Option 2 could also be Laticrete 253R which is available at Lowes as help.

HELP. Thoughts, suggestion on the Bonding Slurry.
I've got 16 bags of Mapeceme that will be awaiting to be used this Friday.
I'm screeding mostly 3/8 - 1/2.
There are some dips that go down to 3/4 in the center

Mapei's tech sheets here

http://www.mapei.us/pdf/TechBulletin...ecem_TB_EA.pdf
Basic Guidelines for MapecemTM Premix Applications
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:14 PM   #80
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Alan, how 'bout a link to the particular Mapecem product you intend to use. I see a handful of products that could be applicable.

But I'll bet they don't want you to be putting anyone else's additives in their products. You can if you like, of course, but I wouldn't recommend it.

And be sure your link includes the requirements of this special bonding slurry. That's usually just a thinset mortar or pure Portland cement, but I don't know Mapei's requirements.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:16 PM   #81
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The link in the previous post was the tech guideline.

Link here for the Product itself...

http://www.mapei.com/CA-EN/product-d...20&IDLinea=102

Per their tech sheet :

For a slurry bond coat
• Mix equal parts (by volume) of Mapecem Premix with
Planicrete AC while slowly and continuous mixing. (A
slurry bond coat can also be made from a rapid-setting
MAPEI polymer-modified mortar mixed with water.)

Planicrete AC seems to be a latex mortar additive...
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:29 PM   #82
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As I read it you can also use a Mapei rapid setting modified thinset mortar mixed with water for your bonding coat. That's a situation where I would not be afraid to substitute another brand of an appropriate mortar. You're not mixing products, your using different ones together. You'll have no warranty from either manufacturer if you elect to do that, of course.

And I do see the caution not to add anything to the Mapecem mix other than what's specified. Pretty common, that.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 11-25-2011, 10:06 AM   #83
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Thank goodness for the supply houses. They have some kewl like Frye Reglet reveals and stuff but I prefer the big boxes for sheet goods and lumbar......

Got the same manuf. additive today. Yay.

Hmmm...I know the laundry room is concrete..this is the 2nd time I've had to dig it up but then again, this is where the main water and sewer come in/out.


The odd thing is the main room. All this time I thought it was just bare concrete at all. I'm chipping away at a low spot - AS P is key (prep) and in hitting a low spot ...the concrete was so thin I chipped away the concrete and underneath is wood.

Note this dip is a 4x5 area where the deepest part of the dip is 3/4" deep..
This is a old house and plywood did not exist back then. Me wonders how much ~wood~ is under the concrete floor of my house. One would think they would pour over straight dirt no. And it can't be that thick.... as it's level with the laundry room.
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Old 11-26-2011, 11:36 AM   #84
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Gotta love it when the pros are at their best.
The pros are here doing their thing today....all donned up in their white protective suits and dustmasks mixing and laying down leveling mortar and such.

Maybe I should listen to the wifey more often and don a mask when doing demo, taking the cue from the pros on ~protection~ from the stuff you breath in or the stuff that lands on you...
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:18 PM   #85
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PROS. What do you see wrong in this picture if any.....
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:28 PM   #86
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I'll start...as in my discussions with the setter, I was comfortable with the approach, his familiarity, etc...

This is only 1/5 of the job that was started.
Last night when they had wrapped, I got a chance to peek inside and I immediately noticed there was nary a spacer in sight. I looked at the joints and it did look off kilter....but I was looking at it from a angle away from the tile direct itself.

- Most joints are somewhat consistent at 3/16
- Some are wider
- Some are narrow
- Some even are 3/16 and then get more narrow.

The install is fairly flat.
I'm NOT sure what the correct answer is. If I use a 2' foot level, it looks flat.
Take a 4 foot and one can clearly see a high row. It's so high that I can rotate the level 360 when it's on the high row. However, if you put a 2' level on that row and the adjacent one - it appears level.

I've yet to walk *barefoot* on it - but I suppose once it's grouted, the areas with minor lippage will be minimized.

My issue is we're only started on this job- grout joints are inconsistent with no Quality Control on using spacers and now I have a hodge podge of grout lines. On some edge detail, it is Sloppy with one edge having possibly 1/16 reveal and the other end, maybe 3X as much.

I'm not sure what the best approach or recourse is at this point.
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:58 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan
Last night when they had wrapped, I got a chance to peek inside and I immediately noticed there was nary a spacer in sight.
Many veteran setters never use spacers on a floor installation.

I cant see what size those tiles are, but if the long edge is 18" or more you're taking your chances according to industry standards using a full 50% offset pattern. Actually, you're taking your chances with any size tile, depending upon how flat they are and how flat your floor is.

Grout joint width variation can range a bit depending upon how well the tiles are calibrated.

Allowable lippage also depends upon the flatness of the tiles.

Biggest problem I can see from the photo is the customer walking on a very new tile installation. A Bozo no-no.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 11-28-2011, 06:17 PM   #88
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It's had a full 24 hrs to set.
And I was just on it long enough tonight to evaluate the situation and workmanship, with baby steps all the way ;-)

They are 12x24
On the level test, I took 3 tiles out of the box and none appear warped.

- If a Pro Veteran setter sets floor tile, assuming that the tiles are fairly square on the edges, how consistent should they be . I guess it goes back to my remarks on not seeing nary a spacer in sight on the variation of grout joint Within the same one edge of 1 tile, it may start at 3/16 but the other edge is closer to 1/8. a good couple of joints won't even take my 3/16 spacer and some will take it and be wide enough for me to move that spacer side to side...

I hired a pro and I assumed that at that very bare minimum, regardless of lippage, the fundamental setting of a tile and using a spacer or even if you freehand eyeball the joint -- just make sure all the joints are the same. Obviously, one will get a better degree of accuracy on that if a spacer was used.

I'll grab more detailed pics...just need to sort them off the digi cam
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:05 PM   #89
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Again, unless your tiles are nearly perfectly calibrated, you're gonna have some variation in the joint width between them. How much depends upon the tiles and the installer.

As a rule, tile installers doing a floor will snap control lines on the floor to guide them in the installation. And if they're dealing with some size or shape differential in the tiles, spacers can cause far more problems than you are theorizing they might solve.

And while 24 hours might be long enough for you to get on your own tile installation, it is not long enough for you to get on someone else's installation. That requires a minimum of 72 hours.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:11 PM   #90
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CX/BBCAMP- Can you change the thread title to *CW Basement Tile Renovation Progress for Review*

More pics for review.
Ignore the height of the the hatch cover.
On page 3 of this thread, there are pics of the OLD cover.

That will need to be leveled.
However, there are some things I see that either I am wrong on thinking should be right but I will let you guys with more experienced eyes advise further. You may not pick it up in the pics but the pulls for the cover are not flush. It is ontop of the tile.
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