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Old 12-21-2011, 07:10 PM   #46
kdev
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul
It still makes me nervous. I would have put the Y pointed to the sky and raised the trap since you have room
Could you please elaborate on your nervousness?
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Old 12-21-2011, 08:53 PM   #47
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With the rest of the piping configuration, the waste flow from the shower would have a better chance at not backflowing if the shower was introduced into the 4" pipe from the top rather than the side. Since there is the room to do so I would have done it that way. That makes the most sense to me. But that's just my preference.

I worry about any possible backflow with toilets considering there is no coming change in the number of ill behaved children in the foreseeable future.
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:37 PM   #48
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What if the shower line came in at a 45* angle?



ps I am going to redo the toilet branch and the shower branch in order to plumb up the riser pipes and also to bring in the shower waste at a 45* angle.
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:46 PM   #49
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Here's a new question for y'all. I'm looking for a good way to 'box' in this here fancy backwater valve I have. There will be a hole in the slab for access, and I want to build some sides and a bottom out of something to keep the backfill away from the valve box. Thoughts?
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:42 PM   #50
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I'd say that valve box you've got pictured there is about as good as you'll get, Kent. Might hafta cut it down a bit for the right height, but otherwise it should work.

Unless you're wantin' something you can make a tiled lid for?
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:36 PM   #51
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Although I was thinking of using Kerdi for waterproofing, I have a couple of Hydroban questions after reading some other threads...

1. Can you Hydroban the shower walls and tile them first, then build your shower pan out of deck mud and Hydroban it at a later date? In other words, does fresh Hydroban create solid water tight seal with cured Hydroban?

2. I have read about Kerdi corner/change of plane buildup issues. Does a paint on membrane such as Hydroban make is easier for a DIYer to reduce such buildup issues? I think Hydroban will still require fabric at corners/changes of plane if I am understanding their directions correctly?

3. For a 5'x3'x8' shower (~88 sq. ft.) , 2 gallons of Hydroban should be plenty, right?

4. The Kerdi drain is compatible with Hydroban, correct? Do you just embed the Kerdi drain in thinset over your deck mud, let cure, then put your coats of Hydroban over the Kerdi fleece membrane of the Kerdi drain?

Thanks!
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:03 PM   #52
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bump for questions in previous post

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Old 01-12-2012, 06:09 AM   #53
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1) Yes.

2) Yes, the fabric will cause some buildup. Some membranes do not need fabric if the joint is tight to within 1/8". I would not use a membrane with out some sort of reinforcement in the corners, though (just my own opinion and adversion to risk). I would consider CBU tape and thinset as reinforcement.
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Old 02-07-2012, 07:08 PM   #54
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Howdy from up north!

My project is ongoing but it got stalled out not only with the holidays, but also by my lack of decisiveness on how to best wrap up the under slab plumbing.

For the plumbing, I posted a final shot of the plumbing to the terrylove forum and got feedback that the shower was not [wet] vented correctly.

Of course, the plumbing was completed by a licensed plumber and it passed the inspection.

Here is another shot of the rough-in and also a link to my thread over there in case anyone is interested.

my plumbing thread at terrylove

Posting this as a general update to my project and also as an example of incorrect wet venting so others can learn from my mistake.

The problem here is that the high volume toilet is going past the shower trap arm and this will siphon the shower trap dry.

I had presented the plumber with a slightly different plan that didn't have this problem, but he modified my plan on the fly and I didn't catch the problem that his modification introduced.
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Old 02-07-2012, 07:12 PM   #55
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The helpful professionals and DIYs at terrylove helped me come up with this plan that correctly vents all three fixtures.

Note: The blue is a planned bar sink drain from an adjacent room. This connection is not code compliant though since only the bathroom group fixtures are allowed to drain through the wet vent portion of the drain. Just FYI.
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Old 02-07-2012, 07:35 PM   #56
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Yup, them vents can get a little tricky, 'specially on remodel. Glad you got it worked out.

Sorry you've got such a poor slab that appears completely un-reinforced. Concrete guy was associated with your plumber, you reckon?
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:47 PM   #57
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wall mount vanity question

Hi all,

I'm trying to set the final closet flange and shower drain locations, and those things are pretty much dictated by my vanity choice. I only have a few extra inches to play with, so I need to get it right.

Here is the likely sink candidate:

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The sink will essentially be mounted in a corner, with the subway tile wainscoting on both the side wall and the back wall. On the other side of the vanity is the toilet. My questions are:

1) Should I leave a small gap (~1"-2") between the side wall and the side of the vanity?

2) Or should I butt the vanity up against the side wall and then caulk the vanity/wall joint on both the back and the side of the vanity?

I'm thinking about option 2) as it will allow the shower to be 2" deeper. But, I am not sure how the rounded edge + slanted(?) left side of the vanity will look butted up to the side wall and caulked.

In case you are wondering, I haven't purchased the vanity yet.

Thanks
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:57 PM   #58
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Kent,

I know you haven't purchased the sink yet, but the answer I"m going to give will be the same; it depends on how well the specific sink you buy was molded at the factory and how that matches up to your wall. Ideally the sink is a perfect 90 and the wall is a perfect 90 but we all know in reality that isn't likely. The question is how close is it? Won't know until the sink arrives, which is why we don't start any projects until we have every thing in our hot little hands. Can you wait for the sink to arrive?
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:36 PM   #59
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Having a minimum cleaning space between the vanity & wall is important. With that vanity in your photo, an inch might be enough, but a couple inches is typical.

That vanity is designed to be open at both ends, not pushed all the way *to* the wall... but, maybe if you bury the end *in* the wall. Hmmmmm
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:56 AM   #60
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Thanks for the replies Paul and dana.

Paul, I can wait, but I'm not sure about Mrs. Kent.

dana, thanks for your thoughts. The funny thing is that burying the left edge in the wall had actually occurred to me as a possible solution. But, I'm just not sure I could pull it off, and I'm not sure having *this* particular vanity is that important.

So, back to the drawing board. Actually, I found another vanity we really like that is 2" narrower than the one above. Those 2" extra inches will allow me to have a 2" gap at the side wall while keeping the shower the same depth.

Problem solved! (And, more importantly, vanity selected!)

Now about the color of that vanity basin...I read that Kohler white is 'different' than every other manufacturer's white?
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