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Old 08-21-2011, 12:38 PM   #1
travelgarden
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tile around rough toilet opening

We are tiling bathroom floor and are not sure how to work around the rough toilet opening. There is a red metal oakey casper flange, about 1/4 thick, with 3 holes on each side plus two slots that look like they would slide along a bolt. This is fitted around the drain, which currently has a plug in it.

This flange can move up and down and looks as though it should sit up on the finish tile floor (1/4" tile"). It will be a bit of a challenge to slide the tiles in under it but doable. However that would mean that some of the holes of the flange would be over the tile. Wouldn't this mean that holes would need to be drilled in the tiles to attach the flange?

We wondered if we should instead just butt the tile up close to this flange and insert small tile spacers between the holes of the flange to get it up to the finish height. Then the flange could be screwed into the subfloor without making holes in the tiles?
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Old 08-21-2011, 01:23 PM   #2
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The tile fits right under the toilet flange.

Got a pic of what you're working with?
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Old 08-21-2011, 01:24 PM   #3
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It's a little scarey that the flange itself can move up and down. I'm assuming that the pipe is plastic, and the flange is already glued to it? If not, are you sure that the flange is actually properly attached to the drain line?

Anyway, the proper place for the flange is on TOP of the FINISHED floor. To accommodate the screws you'd want to anchor it tightly through the floor, notch the tile before you install them so you don't later have to try to drill through the tile. This is fairly easy to do on the wetsaw or with a grinder and the proper cup. Just measure carefully and ensure you get good coverage with the thinset under that edge and it will be fine.

A flange often has a set of T-slots for the toilet anchor bolts and a set of smaller slots that come in from the outside. Depending on how your toilet flange is glued in place, you'd use one set or the other. On some flanges, namely a plastic one with a metal ring, they may only have one - the t-slots.
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Old 08-21-2011, 01:37 PM   #4
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"To accommodate the screws you'd want to anchor it tightly through the floor, notch the tile before you install them so you don't later have to try to drill through the tile. This is fairly easy to do on the wetsaw or with a grinder and the proper cup. Just measure carefully and ensure you get good coverage with the thinset under that edge and it will be fine."

What I was gonna say.....
Just did that very thing on a job, didnt take a picture though. Much easier than drilling through the tile. Just line up the flange in the way that it will be fixed when the toilet goes on and you can figure out where to make the notches pretty easily.

The flange on my last job also had some movement, It wasnt really the flange moving, more that i was lifting the pipe in the joist space slightly. (ABS)
I wish more bathroom reno's I worked on would change the flange, around here they typicaly leave it, tile around it, and then add spacers
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Old 08-21-2011, 02:54 PM   #5
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Many times the floor flange is already fastened to the subfloor when I get to the job. I cut the BB and tile around the flange and then use a flange extender or ( 2 ) the raise the flange to the correct height.

http://plumbing.about.com/od/toilets...-Extension.htm

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Old 08-21-2011, 06:28 PM   #6
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I just put in one of these last week. Pretty snappy, but it does reduce the size of the throat of the inlet. Floor height went up by nearly 1.25" so I put a Hammy type spacer between the old flange and the new slip-over.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/OAT...4&ci_sku=1VNH8
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Old 08-21-2011, 06:56 PM   #7
jadnashua
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Next to rusted out plain steel ringed flanges, solid plastic ones are the biggest call backs to plumbers to fix broken or rusted units...they much prefer either a CI flange for a CI pipe, or a plastic one with a SS ring.
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Old 08-21-2011, 07:54 PM   #8
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Whenever possible, which is just about always, I've started using 1/4" galvanized lag screws with flat washers to anchor the toilet down. Then the flange just becomes part of the seal, and you're not depending on it for any strength in holding the toilet in place. This works with the flange on top of or flush with the tiles.

I like 2 1/2" or 3" lag screws. Pre-drill (3/16") through the subfloor. If you have access from underneath, you can block under the subfloor if it seems like you need to.

I've seen too many toilet hold-down bolts pull through plastic flanges, and metal flange rings that bend and/or rust.
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