Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books   Buy a TYW Shirt

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-16-2012, 02:57 PM   #46
steventhomas42
Assistant DIY Engineer
 
steventhomas42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Alabama
Posts: 181
Quote:
Originally Posted by jadnashua
Especially over a wooden subfloor, the preslope needs some thickness as it tapers to the drain...1" at the outside edge may not be enough to provide enough strength by the drain. At 1/4" per foot, what will you have at the drain? Might be okay, but best to check.
Nice catch. Reading is fundamental. I would have been within tolerance on the distances to the walls, but not to the corners (as cx clearly told me earlier).

We remeasured and went to 1-1/2" for our outer edges. We mixed the Portland cement and the sand mix to the 5:1 ratio that johnbridge suggests and added water until we could do the "snowball" test. Everyone who says that it seems "too dry" is not kidding. It passed the snowball and crumble test, and I really wanted to add more water, but I resisted the urge.

So here are the pictures of the preslope. I have closed off the bathroom and we are going to leave it alone until tomorrow evening when I plan to do the liner.

We're one day behind the re-established timetable because we didn't get the pre-slope done last night (it was getting too cold outside by the time the RedGuard dried to mix concrete). It's just as well because I forgot to pick up the PVC cement to attach the shower dam corner to the liner yesterday.

So, I'm not putting a fan on the cement... I'm letting it dry au naturale, correct?
Attached Images
  
__________________
Steve

My favorite quote of 2011:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WendyHMN
Do a mud pan. C'mon, you know you want to.
steventhomas42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2012, 03:18 PM   #47
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 8,947
Cement technically cures, not dries...using a fan could affect the overall strength. When cement cures, it chemically incorporates the water into its crystaline structure so removing some by evaporation deprives it and you may get a weaker structure.

In short - NO fans! In a super dry environment, some plastic over the top helps it retain the moisture it needs and maximizes the strength, but often isn't needed.
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2012, 03:25 PM   #48
steventhomas42
Assistant DIY Engineer
 
steventhomas42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Alabama
Posts: 181
Gotcha

It's cool and dry here today (37% humidity), but I think we'll be fine.

I must say I like the way it looks so far.
__________________
Steve

My favorite quote of 2011:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WendyHMN
Do a mud pan. C'mon, you know you want to.
steventhomas42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2012, 02:42 PM   #49
steventhomas42
Assistant DIY Engineer
 
steventhomas42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Alabama
Posts: 181
I'll be stopping by Lowe's on the way home this evening to purchase the Oatey X-15 Cement to bond the shower dam corners to the liner.

Also, I noticed in this article linked from the liberry that Harry Dunbar applies a sealant between the liner and the bottom flange. What sealant is recommended for this task?
__________________
Steve

My favorite quote of 2011:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WendyHMN
Do a mud pan. C'mon, you know you want to.
steventhomas42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2012, 08:35 PM   #50
dhagin
builder, anti-builder, rebuilder -- Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: oahu
Posts: 11,190
100% silicone.
__________________
dana

"the road to hell is paved with osb, mastic, pre-mixed latex 'grout' or 'thinset', "
dhagin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2012, 09:55 PM   #51
Ceci
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Chicago
Posts: 896
Make sure not to clog your weep holes with silicone since after one applies the silicone, one puts the reversable clamping ring part of the drain on(weep holes there) and sometimes the silicone likes to spread out bit too much once the clamping ring is tightened up if one puts on a bit too much silicone. Just saying. Oh yeah, before you do the top mud bed, don't forget to put some pea gravel on top of those weep holes and the surrounding area so then they won't get clogged up with your deck mud. Just saying, again. I almost forgot the pea gravel on mine.

http://www.oatey.com/shower_drains/l...an%20Liner.pdf

Ceci

Last edited by Ceci; 01-17-2012 at 10:04 PM.
Ceci is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2012, 07:05 PM   #52
steventhomas42
Assistant DIY Engineer
 
steventhomas42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Alabama
Posts: 181
OK, the kids' ball schedules and our family's music practices finally let up a bit, so I have gotten the PVC liner and the clamping drain assembly installed.

Apologies for the iPod quality pictures, but you can see the progress.

The 40 ml liner is a bear to work with in cool weather. I can definitely see where it would be an advantage to be able to lay it out in the sun to make it a bit more pliable. I tried laying it on our bed on top of the electric blanket, but that had little impact. The pictures don't show it, but if I apply a little pressure on the edges, the liner smoothes out nicely.

I had to go buy some silicone tonight because the two tubes of silicone caulk I had here at the house had hardened in the tubes. Once I picked it up, I applied a good thick bead of silicone onto the lower drain assembly, added the top clamping assembly and then tightened down (I wasn't sure it would matter, but I figured to spread the silicone out evenly, I used a 1, 3, 2, 4 rotation like on a four lug wheel).

One question I have is about my lath for the curb. Our curb is about 48" wide, and the piece of lath I have left over from under the preslope is only 40" X 27". Is it OK to use two pieces of lath lengthwise to make the curb, or should I wait and go buy another piece?

I have pea gravel (or something similar) ready for the job. Hopefully we'll get on the mud again in a day or two. If I understand correctly, the mud will be the same "deck mud" 5:1 mixture of portland and sand as we used for the preslope, but the curb will be built with masonry mix instead, correct?

Thanks!
Attached Images
   
__________________
Steve

My favorite quote of 2011:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WendyHMN
Do a mud pan. C'mon, you know you want to.
steventhomas42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2012, 07:22 PM   #53
Houston Remodeler
Registered User
 
Houston Remodeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 22,687
Were you fixin to add curb corners?
Attached Images
 
__________________
Paul1

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling


http://CabotAndRowe.com
Houston Remodeler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2012, 07:51 PM   #54
steventhomas42
Assistant DIY Engineer
 
steventhomas42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Alabama
Posts: 181
Quote:
Originally Posted by CabotandRowe.com
Were you fixin to add curb corners?
Yes. In fact I already have the Oatey ones, but I have managed to drive past the home improvement stores a half dozen times and forgotten to pick up the Oatey X-15 adhesive.

That's on my list to pick up tomorrow afternoon.
__________________
Steve

My favorite quote of 2011:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WendyHMN
Do a mud pan. C'mon, you know you want to.
steventhomas42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2012, 08:19 PM   #55
Houston Remodeler
Registered User
 
Houston Remodeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 22,687
Good going. Had me worried there for a moment.
__________________
Paul1

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling


http://CabotAndRowe.com
Houston Remodeler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2012, 08:49 PM   #56
Ceci
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Chicago
Posts: 896
Steve, the important thing is getting it right, not how fast it's done so it's ok if one forgets to pick up something and has to return over and over. I was such a regular at Lowes during the first few weeks of my project, I became buddybuddy with some of the workers there. Finally figured out that the best parking is by the entrance that the contractors mostly go through and the shortest cash register lines there too.

Ceci
Ceci is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2012, 09:14 AM   #57
steventhomas42
Assistant DIY Engineer
 
steventhomas42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Alabama
Posts: 181
Bumping for this question. I just want to make sure I'm on the right path before we do this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by steventhomas42
If I understand correctly, the mud will be the same "deck mud" 5:1 mixture of portland and sand as we used for the preslope, but the curb will be built with masonry mix instead, correct?
__________________
Steve

My favorite quote of 2011:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WendyHMN
Do a mud pan. C'mon, you know you want to.
steventhomas42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2012, 10:39 AM   #58
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,305
Right! Deck mud (4:1 sand to Portland cement) for the preslope and setting bed; Fat mud (brick mortar or mason's mortar (sand, cement, lime)) for the curb.
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2012, 08:12 PM   #59
steventhomas42
Assistant DIY Engineer
 
steventhomas42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Alabama
Posts: 181
Got the curb corner pieces installed (MAN, that stuff stinks!). Shaped and installed the lath to wrap the curb. Installed the CBU for the bottom foot of the walls that we removed prior to post #40.

Next, we have to apply Redguard to the backerboard. In addition to the 4 tiles that separated from the wall as we were cutting and removing the old CBU, I discovered a couple of the remaining tiles on that row are loose but hanging on, so I will be removing those prior to grinding off the thinset. I am thinking about picking up a Harbor Freight Multimax-knockoff and a Carbide Rasp to do the grinding.

We plan to do the deck mud tomorrow evening. I'm going on JB's statements in other areas that the lath is not commonly used in the mud layer anymore.

Looks like progress again.
Attached Images
   
__________________
Steve

My favorite quote of 2011:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WendyHMN
Do a mud pan. C'mon, you know you want to.
steventhomas42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2012, 09:03 PM   #60
Handy?
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Bronx, NY
Posts: 117
Nice job man looks good!

BBcamp, I did my bed today 5:1 as per John's articlehttp://www.johnbridge.com/how-to/deck-mud/. I understand there is some user preference. Is 4:1 your preference? Is that better?
__________________
Frank
Handy? is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Buy John's New Book!   Tile Your World Online Store   Contractors Direct Tile Tool Store   Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Big Dark Mess! firstmoon Cleaning, Restoration and Sealing 20 10-25-2009 04:27 PM
big mess with cutback bd323 Tile Forum/Advice Board 13 03-28-2006 06:33 AM
Big Project, Big Trouble mnmpaul Tile Forum/Advice Board 2 01-31-2006 05:10 AM
A big mess Unregistered Tile Forum/Advice Board 4 09-24-2004 10:33 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:24 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2014 John Bridge & Associates, LLC