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Old 10-22-2011, 06:40 PM   #31
steventhomas42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbcamp
If you used a liquid waterproofing membrane on the upper parts of the wall, you need to do that with the repair.
We are waterproofing with Redgard, so yes, there should be a:

17.5 Coat repacement CBU with Redgard.

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Bridge
Hi Steve,

With what Bob added that looks like a plan.

I have never devised a good way to make a curb from CBU. I suggest a mud curb:

The pan/liner corners at the curb are crucial. And get the pan in neatly and tight to the walls. Make the corner folds meticulously so there is little bulge. Do notch the studs to make room for the liner:

Take your time and get each step right.
Thanks John. After the spanking you gave us earlier, it's refreshing to see that you feel we can salvage this.

Yes, I am going to make a mud curb this time. Is there any special blend of Portland Cement for the curb mud? Also, do the Big Box stores sell lath? I can't find it on their websites, but some things aren't on their that they carry in store.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
Number 17 should be between 10 and 11. Certainly before 15.

18. You wanna leave that drain barrel in place once installed. You'll pack your deck mud around it leaving one tile + mortar thickness below the top.
OK, I'll reorder that one.

Can you clarify "leaving one tile and morter thickness below the top?" Do you mean screw it down but leave enough room for a last piece of tile to go under it?

Thanks,
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My favorite quote of 2011:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WendyHMN
Do a mud pan. C'mon, you know you want to.
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:11 PM   #32
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Steve, you must install your drain barrel and grate before you do your final mud bed (you can remove the grate if you like).

You must install your final mud bed before you tile.

You must leave room between your mud bed and the top of your drain such that the tile is flush with, or slightly higher than, the drain grate. That requires leaving the drain higher than the mud bed by the thickness of your tile plus the thickness of your thinset mortar.

Your thinset mortar must be a minimum of 3/32nds" thick, so allow a bit more than that. Measure the tile.

Any more clear?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 10-23-2011, 06:58 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Bridge
I have never devised a good way to make a curb from CBU.
No need to, Noble makes the perfect part for that.


http://www.noblecompany.com/Portals/...ion%200109.pdf

They work great, for those of us not skilled in the mud curb making.


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Old 10-23-2011, 04:12 PM   #34
steventhomas42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
Steve, you must install your drain barrel and grate before you do your final mud bed (you can remove the grate if you like).

You must install your final mud bed before you tile.

You must leave room between your mud bed and the top of your drain such that the tile is flush with, or slightly higher than, the drain grate. That requires leaving the drain higher than the mud bed by the thickness of your tile plus the thickness of your thinset mortar.

Your thinset mortar must be a minimum of 3/32nds" thick, so allow a bit more than that. Measure the tile.

Any more clear?
Crystal!
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My favorite quote of 2011:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WendyHMN
Do a mud pan. C'mon, you know you want to.
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:01 PM   #35
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Well, due to a vacation to Branson and a number of family illnesses, we are finally getting ready to make our corrections to the shower pan/floor. We removed the mud that was in there and are preparing to put felt and lath down so we can build the preslope.

I have a couple of questions before we do the preslope.

First, the recommended minimum for preslope is 1/4" rise per foot of run. Due to the shape of the shower and the location of the joists, the drain is not at all centered in the floor. The distances from the drain to the walls is 32.5", 15.75", 9", and 21.5". That means the minimum slope for the preslope would be 0.7", 0.3", 0.2" and 0.4". Would we be ok to make the preslope outside edges 1" from floor level on all sides rather than picking and choosing these small increments?

Second, can I get some recommendations on how to notch the studs to accomodate the liner since the walls are already in place and were not notched previously? Is there a saw that we can rent that will nibble out a 1/4" section from the edge of a stud or something like that?

Thanks!
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My favorite quote of 2011:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WendyHMN
Do a mud pan. C'mon, you know you want to.
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:27 PM   #36
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For cutting wood in tight to fit areas, I've had good luck with my Dremel Multi-max. It will take time, but it will get the job done so long as there is room between the studs to hold this little power saw/scraper.

But I'll warn you, it's not a cheap tool. When I bought mine, it was about $99. There are several others like the Dremel Multi-max, but they are all about $100. Seems like I might have seen some Christmas specialls where the price is coming down to $89 or better. Then there is the Chineese knockoff you can pickup at a Harbor Freight if you got one around you.

These tools let you make cuts in tight areas because the blade can be turned to face any direction.
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Old 12-03-2011, 07:23 PM   #37
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Steve, your pre-slope wants to be level all the way around the perimeter of your shower floor. And that height wants to represent a minimum of a quarter inch per foot rise from the drain to the farthest corner of the shower.

Notching your studs is not precision work and needn't look pretty No special tools are usually required. You can make a cut at the top with any hand saw to establish your depth and then cut out below that with a Sawzall or wood chisel or whatever looks best amongst your tools to fit the bill.

I have an old (like, older than either of us) hatchet that has one flush side and and one beveled side for the edge and a flat face on the back for hammering on. I'm sure it has a proper name, but I don't know it. Something like that and a medium pounder and a fella wouldn't be in there more'n fifteen minutes to do his notching. Two-inch wood chisel would do about as well.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:15 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cx
Two-inch wood chisel would do about as well.
{Looks for 2" wood chisel} I get to go to the tool store!

Seriously though, thanks for the help!
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My favorite quote of 2011:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WendyHMN
Do a mud pan. C'mon, you know you want to.
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:26 PM   #39
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Steve,
After you get done notching the studs for pan-liner clearance, will you also install blocking between the studs to support the liner fabric between studs?
Then when you get to the curb, referring pictures at top of post #20, it appears to me that you will want to hear from somebody who knows how to utilize dam-corners allowing your liner material to properly enwrap the curb, tell/show us how to do that detail. (which was lacking on that first liner & curb)
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Old 01-14-2012, 04:54 PM   #40
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Well, time flies when you are having fun, and it can move at a good clip when you're not as well. We got nothing done in the weeks leading up to Christmas, and then I started having some medical issues the week after and spent a couple of days in the hospital.

Finally got to feeling good enough to get back on this, so my wife and I got started today. I didn't get to buy a 2" chisel, but we were able to make do with the 1" chisel and our Dremel tool.

The pictures below show the result of the chiseling/cutting. We are coming up 8" from the plywood floor. I have also got the felt and metal lath to put down prior to making the pre-slope.

Steve
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My favorite quote of 2011:
Quote:
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Do a mud pan. C'mon, you know you want to.

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Old 01-14-2012, 08:28 PM   #41
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You didn't forget the part about the blocking between the studs did you?
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:59 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmantrapper
You didn't forget the part about the blocking between the studs did you?
Nope. We just didn't get that far before we had to get dinner ready for the kids.

I'm also going to go tomorrow to pick up some shower dam corner pieces and the liner cement to attach them.
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My favorite quote of 2011:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WendyHMN
Do a mud pan. C'mon, you know you want to.
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Old 01-15-2012, 04:23 PM   #43
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WHile you had the flooring out to replace, you could have moved the drain to the middle of the shower, but too late now.
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:22 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadnashua
WHile you had the flooring out to replace, you could have moved the drain to the middle of the shower, but too late now.
Actually, we couldn't easily do that. The joists were still intact (and in the way) so we didn't want to redo those as well.

Today's progress:

The first 2 pictures are after blocking was added between the studs and the wife laid the felt paper. The next 3 are after the lath was installed. You probably can't see it, but I have marked a 1" level line around the ratseal for the outer edges of our pre-slope.

Before anyone asks, the reason there's no blocking in the last little section in the front right of the shower is that there's only about a 2" gap between those studs and I can't get anything in that tight to fasten a block. I figure the pan liner's hospital corner fold that will be in that corner will be wider than 2" and that will fasten to the studs.


Since the picture was taken, we have coated all the exposed wood surfaces with Redgard and are waiting for that to dry.
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My favorite quote of 2011:
Quote:
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Do a mud pan. C'mon, you know you want to.
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Old 01-15-2012, 09:18 PM   #45
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Especially over a wooden subfloor, the preslope needs some thickness as it tapers to the drain...1" at the outside edge may not be enough to provide enough strength by the drain. At 1/4" per foot, what will you have at the drain? Might be okay, but best to check.
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