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Old 03-01-2012, 07:26 PM   #91
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1) What's the favored material for the top of the curb? I gather that marble can be problematic (not very durable nor resistant to staining, discoloration,etc). Granite would be OK but would need to be regularly sealed? A piece of solid surface (Corian, Swanstone, etc)?

2) When installing a one piece curb, do the wall tiles go up first then the curb piece goes on, or is it preferred to tile around the curb? (I would think walls first, then curb?)
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Last edited by hiperco; 03-01-2012 at 07:36 PM. Reason: correct and clarify #2
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:36 PM   #92
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Hi D -
My usual "I'm not a pro but here's what I did" disclaimer

1.) I used a piece of quartz from a counter top store. It cost me about $100 or so as I recall. Even though it was from a remnant, they had to charge me a little to cut it and profile the edge.

2.) I installed my tile first. My curb was actually one of the last pieces to go in. My thinking was that with the curb between two pieces of tile on the opposite walls, I'd have a cleaner joint versus trying to cut the tile to fit to around the curb.
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:23 PM   #93
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I used granite, from the same piece as my vanity top. Some granite needs sealing, some doesn't. Even if it does it's a once a year thing. I put in my tile first.
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:27 PM   #94
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Thanks for the curb replies i still have time to decide, but At long last I'm nearly ready to start tiling the walls that are now waterproofed with kerdi including the corners. (the advice to do the floor last continues to be good, it's very messy at these steps along the way.).

1) Is there a preferred order? Should I do one wall at a time or one complete row across all three walls?

2). What size trowel for 12 inch tiles over Kerdi

3). For an outside corner, how much allowance should be made for thinset thickness. The border tiles will be 6 inch and wrap around the right wall. These tiles will be outside the shower and will be over a painted surface, should I continue to use versabond or something else?
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:35 AM   #95
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D,

1 & 3 - Tile horizontally all around the room / shower. That way everything will line up. Versabond is fine.

2- If your walls are very flat, start with a 1/4 x 3/8 trowel. Yank off a tile and see the coverage you are getting and how hard it is to remove a tile.
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:42 PM   #96
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Round Peg in Square Hole? NOT

Side note - while installing my kerdi in the corners and adding some along the wall (nice to have the flexibility to change your mind ) I tried to install the kerdi seal mv into the square hole for my delta mixing valve. NO WAY does that work properly with the opening in the drywall snug to the plaster guard (I removed the plaster guard first), it wouldn't lay flat without crinkling up due to the deformation of the round part into the square hole. I bailed out, smoothed as much thinset off the wall as I could, and threw the thing away. Think I'll be OK without it? (I had previously smeared silicone on the drywall edges).
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:05 AM   #97
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You'll be fine without that seal. Caulk around the trim plate leaving a small gap at the bottom, if you don't trust the gasket on the back of the plate.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:51 PM   #98
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Non-conforming kerdi corner...

I've noticed that I have an issue in one of my corners where the drywall didn't meet up tightly. As a result I managed to push the kerdi band into the gap in the corner. Wonder what I should do about this? Not sure what will happen with the kerdi inside corner in this area, can I just get it to conform again to this by also pushing in? I'm thinking that if I filled with thinset the waterproofing could be compromised where there is a thicker layer of thinset? (The last picture shows the corner up higher, done correctly...)

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Old 03-05-2012, 10:58 PM   #99
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D,

Do nothing. Some consider that an expansion joint and a good thing. No filler needed. When you go to install the floor kerdi, either use kerdi band or lap the floor kerdi up the walls, then squirt some kerdi -fix in the corner where the overlap is. Thinset too thick will wick water and defeat the purpose of the kerdi.
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:38 AM   #100
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Thanks,

1) Does thinset stick to kerdi fix? (cured and/or not cured)

2) Are you saying to apply the kerdi fix at the same time as the thinset (under the kerdi)? or just at the lip after the kerdi band is pressed and smoothed?

3) Separate but related question - in the corners am I correct that there ends up being THREE layers of overlapped kerdi when you're done? (Not counting the first layer on the walls...) (This assumes using the nifty one-piece inside corners, otherwise there's FOUR overlapping pieces, not counting the wall/floor )
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:54 AM   #101
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1- yes, give each a day to set up before applying the other.
2- see above
3- most laps are 2 layers. Most corners where 3 planes come together there will be 3 layers at the Kerdi Kerek. Then, there are some situations where there may be more layers, like neo-angle curbs.
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:53 PM   #102
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Layout Noodling

I think at long last we MAY have selected a tile for the shower walls. Been a real puzzler for sure. The tiles are ceramic (not porcelain), 8x12, and planning to use a running bond pattern with the tiles horizontal. I've attached some pictures showing the plan for the vertical spacing. I plan to do as shown, starting the first whole tile course 8 5/8 inches above the floor. This leaves 1/2 inch nominal at the floor, which can be trimmed to meet up with the tiled floor height, and about the same at the ceiling to allow trimming for out of square etc.

The 2x4 and drywall are (loosely) modeling the shower floor mud thickness and tile (I will make the pan 1.5 inches thick at the perimeter, with my kerdi drain set at 1" above the floor. The tape measure IS even with the bottom of the 2x4, although it doesn't look it in the pictures.

Comments/criticism/corrections welcome

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Old 03-12-2012, 08:41 AM   #103
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Sounds like a plan. Is it an optical illusion in the first pic, or are your tiles kind of variable in size? If so, you might want to measure and widen the grout line if necessary. Also, did you check for cupping in the tiles? That might affect your plans for a 50% overlap.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:18 AM   #104
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Cupping! Great Scott, I didn't know/think to look for that! The tiles ARE slightly cupped. Are there guidelines (other than visual) for permissible cupping for a running bond pattern? Regardless, we will probably abandon the idea of the running bond and use the tiles in a vertical, non-offset pattern. (Thanks Wendy! )
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:36 AM   #105
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D, there are guidelines for warpage in ceramic tiles, but only if they're advertised as having met ANSI A137.1 testing standards.

The industry guidelines for amount of recommended offset in a running bond pattern are based upon those standards.

If your tiles do not meet A137.1 standards, your problems could be even more severe in that regard.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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