Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books   Buy a TYW Shirt

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-24-2010, 11:42 AM   #1
walleye guy
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Toronto CANADA
Posts: 12
HELP! Mixing grout and caulk???

So I see the current issue of this magazine "Family Handyman" and they have a little article about caulk/grout. In a nutshell, it says you should caulk where planes meet as is the prevailing wisdom, but goes on to say that when you can't find caulking to match your grout... you can blend your grout with regular caulking and pipe it in to the corners using a zip-top bag.
This one doesn't pass the sniff test for me, but can anyone attest to trying this?

I'm asking mostly out of curiosity, since it's like nothing I've ever heard. BUT ALSO, I have a problem of my own that needs fixing. After finishing my shower (mud bed with marble mosaics meeting 12x12 ceramics on the walls, over Hardi), I've apparently miscalculated my height when I used the ledger for the first row, and I'm left with about a 1/2" gap between the wall and floor tiles at one end of the shower. In addition, I ended the floor tiles close to a 1/2" from the wall boards at that same end of the shower. When you add the thickness of each tile, about 3/8", I'm left with a bit of a cavernous gap. Not sure what the best bet would be to fill this void.. sanded grout, generous bead of caulking, something else? While the grout/caulk blend sounds suspect it has me thinking ... hey, split the difference!
__________________
Greg

Last edited by walleye guy; 08-25-2010 at 10:46 AM. Reason: fixing typos for clarity
walleye guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 08-24-2010, 01:44 PM   #2
Winter River
DIYer with more projects than time
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 259
The experts will be along soon. In the meantime, post some pichers of the gaps. It'll be the first thing they ask for.
__________________
Elise
Winter River is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2010, 10:59 PM   #3
Tool Guy - Kg
Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
 
Tool Guy - Kg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 17,596
About mixing grout with 100% silicone caulk: it can be done, but realize it will reduce the flexible properties of the silicone based on how much powder you mix in. Between Laticrete, Tec, and ColorRite, there's a LOT of 100% silicone colors available to you and mixing can be avoided.

About that 1/2" gap between the first course of wall tiles and the floor tile: I'd cut a strip of tile in there to reduce it to 1/8" or a bit less. It'll be less noticeable than a big honkin' caulk joint.

The second gap you speak of: not sure how big that gap is. Don't quite understand and a picture would be real helpful.


__________________
Tonto Goldstein….. but my friends call me Bubba

“The best way to get a bad law repealed is to enforce it strictly.”
-Abraham Lincoln
Tool Guy - Kg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2010, 11:21 PM   #4
cx
da Home-builder -- Moderator-at-Large
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 75,411
Greg, there is a fella not all that far from moi, here in the south of Texas, America, who has started a business doing exactly what you suggest. I can't think of his name right off hand, but I'll see can't I find his website for you.

He's sent queries about advertising here, and I've asked for some samples of the product, but never gotten a response. I'd like to give it a try. Sounds like a good eye-dee to moi.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Edit]

Here's the fella's website: http://www.earthmasterproducts.com/Home_Page.html

Fella name of Scott Higbie is the creator, I believe. If you talk with him, tell him we can't help him if he won't answer his emails, eh?

Last edited by cx; 08-24-2010 at 11:28 PM.
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2010, 10:53 AM   #5
walleye guy
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Toronto CANADA
Posts: 12
thanks for the replies gents... attached is a sketch that shows the issue with the gap, basically the wall tile is about a 1/2" shy of the mud bed, and the floor tiles are about 1/2" shy of the CBU wall boards, so there isn't a really big gap between the tiles, but a big air space behind there.

If I'm OK with the look of a caulked joint that big, the question is, is a bead that big even going to set up, or am I asking for problems?

Working on getting the Mrs. to get me some photos to post.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Greg
walleye guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2010, 11:54 AM   #6
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,305
I'd do as Bubba said. Cut a sliver and slip it under the wall tile.
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2010, 11:59 AM   #7
Houston Remodeler
Registered User
 
Houston Remodeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 23,214
What Bubba said.

If your tile saw does the 'plunge feature" you can use that to make a super thin sliver if you need to go that skinny.

Yes, they are a nightmare to install after the fact. Thinset will ooze up and make a mess. Let that set for a spell, then before it fully cures, go back and dig out the excess thinset without disturbing the sliver.
__________________
Paul1

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling


http://CabotAndRowe.com
Houston Remodeler is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2010, 01:00 PM   #8
walleye guy
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Toronto CANADA
Posts: 12
Thanks for the suggestions, sounds like I'm going to have to set some more tile.
Not sure if this changes anything, but here are a couple photos; basically at the widest point there is about 5/8"-3/4" gap between the wall tile and the top of the floor tiles (1x1s), then maybe a 1/4" - 3/8" gap between the mosaics and the wall, which is mostly covered by the depth of the wall tiles. As you can see I already have made a mess with grout and thinset in there, so going with some slivers is going to need some chiseling or something.
Attached Images
   
__________________
Greg
walleye guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2010, 05:06 PM   #9
Houston Remodeler
Registered User
 
Houston Remodeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 23,214
Greg,

yep, a fine little mess you've made. Nothing that can't be fixed. Get yerself some good knee pads, a grout removal tool or Fein tool, an d have at it to carefully scrape out the offending grout and thinset. Have some scrap tile handy to check for depth so you don't take out too little. Be careful not to puncture your waterproofing.

Its annoying, PITA work. No real way to make it easier. Sorry buddy.
__________________
Paul1

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling


http://CabotAndRowe.com
Houston Remodeler is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Buy John's New Book!   Tile Your World Online Store   Contractors Direct Tile Tool Store   Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
grout mixing scott anthony Professionals' Hangout 31 12-08-2009 11:03 PM
Mixing Grout liebermg Tile Forum/Advice Board 2 09-15-2008 10:52 AM
mixing grout handy_guy Tile Forum/Advice Board 1 05-02-2008 03:40 AM
Mixing grout ash2042 Tile Forum/Advice Board 1 06-29-2005 03:42 PM
Mixing grout larleb Tile Forum/Advice Board 7 08-23-2004 09:37 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:36 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2014 John Bridge & Associates, LLC