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Old 08-11-2010, 01:48 PM   #1
Granite Rookie
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D24000 Setup Issues...

Hello to the group,

I spent some time today trying to get my new Dewalt 24000 wet saw dialed in and I have run into a couple of issues that D24000 owners might be able to help me with...

1.) In the first photo, you can see a new T3 mounted on the saw. As you can see, it is off centre and the right side of the blade is about 1/8" away from the right side of the tray slot. Is this ok? I tried to find a way to move it into the very centre of the slot without any success. BTW, the blade is square to the tray and in alignment. In reading some of the other threads here on this saw, one photo appeared to show a saw with the blade in the same position. If this is not acceptable, how do you move the entire tray to the right? I tried to reset the main mounting bolts that hold the upper motor assembly to the lower part of the tray, but there is only a tiny bit of slop in them... The photo represents the maximum amount of right side movement I was able to obtain during the alignment procedure.

2.) The second photo shows the bottom of the tray, removed from the saw and turned upside down. The wheel/bearing in the centre (lower part of the photo) is the only wheel that touches the right rail as the tray moves up and down the rails from front to back. I placed a black registration mark on each wheel and observed it's movement (or lack thereof) as the tray was moved up and down the from the extreme front to the extreme back of the rails. The centre wheel makes full contact throughout the movement, the other two wheels are along for the ride, but do not rotate. They freely move when rotated by hand, but when you get down level with the wheels, you can clearly see a gap (~ 1/32" maybe) between the first wheel (left in photo) and the rail, no matter where it is on the right rail. The tray moves freely without any binding throughout its traverse.

The third wheel (far right in the photo) exhibits the same gap. but to a lesser degree. It's gap is a little less than the front wheels gap, but still clearly visible. The long and short of this is that I only have one wheel (the centre one) supporting the right side of my tray. I loosened the mounting bolt on the centre wheel to see if I could lower it, but alas, the yellow gods were in no mood to cooperate. I was hoping there was a way to reposition the centre wheel, or the other two that ride in the air, but I could not see any way to adjust these wheels. I doubt this is the way it is supposed to work, or there would only be one wheel. Any ideas?

3.) The third photo shows the tray mounted on the rails with the centre wheel riding on the rails and the front and rear wheels in the air. (Photo does not show this unfortunately).

I was able to adjust the centre wheel on the left side of the tray to be coplanar with the other wheels, using the instructions in a thread here by adjusting the bolt in the middle part of the top of the tray. Worked a treat! Unfortunately, the wheels on the right side of the tray are proving to be a real bugger. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or alignment tips. As soon as I can get this sorted, I'm going to install the Ditra and give this bad boy a workout... I mentioned in another thread that I was going to see if I could add a laser indicator to this saw... I checked this out when I mounted the T3 and I will need to have the body of the laser indicator milled out to fit the shaft. Once that is done, I will waterproof it and mount it on the saw. The modification to the laser indicator body is simple and the waterproofing will be easy as well. I'll keep youze guys and gals posted on my progress. Note: I did check for threads on the D24000, but could not find any that specifically mentioned problems with the right side wheels, or the blade being too far off centre...
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Old 08-11-2010, 03:42 PM   #2
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Steve,

Mine is off center too. Doesn't seem to bother the saw one little bit.

I wouldn't stress about the right side wheels as long as it doesn't effect the cart/trolley travel. The saw may require a dozen cuts or so to get broken in. Cutting a tile creates lots of stresses on a wet saw. Then see how the wheel go round and round.
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:02 PM   #3
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Let it run for 10 minutes under no load to help break it in.
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Old 08-11-2010, 10:12 PM   #4
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First, let me say- wow is that saw CLEAN!!! Hard to remember mine ever looking like that.

Blade offset due to thicker core of the T3 blade is a non-issue.

Right rail center wheel. Hard to believe there is no adjustment as in the left rail center wheel, but it is the left rail that is important. Thought I do agree it is strange and would seem to put a lot more stress on that point than if it were distribute between the 3 wheels. I did look at the parts blowup schematic at the DeWalt website, not the most detailed drawing ir regard to the wheels for the tray. Sorry I could not be of more help.

Now go cut some tile and get that thing dirty.

.
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Old 08-11-2010, 10:24 PM   #5
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Yeah, that is a clean saw. Mine is off center like that also and on my other Dewalt it is off center in the other direction. Both saws cut straight. I'll have to look under the cart at my wheels, never noticed that problem.
Might I just say, I love my DeWalt.
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Old 08-12-2010, 01:58 AM   #6
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Just for kicks and giggles, grab your calipers and measure those wheels to see if the center one is larger.
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:47 AM   #7
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Unhappy Crashed and Burned!

Quote:
gueuzeman wrote: First, let me say- wow is that saw CLEAN!!!
Gueuzeman: Trust me, it won't stay that way for long... BTW, I caught the post where you showed a picture of a project you did with 12" x 12" tiles cut into rhomboids... Outstanding, elegant and beautiful work! In one of the pictures you showed a jig made to cut the rhomboids made from a piece of ceramic tile. Was this used to cut all sides of the rhomboid? It looks like you need another one to start the cut when working with the initial square tile, but I dunno... How did you initially cut the jig? What angles did you use? Did you just draw the cutout on the tile? The Mrs is already planning a project for me made with rhomboid shaped tiles, so I need to get up to snuff with the cutting jig. Thanks in advance!

Mark: Thanks, if you get a chance to check the wheels for coplanar on the right side of the tray, let me know. Maybe I just got a dodgey part?

Isaac: Aloha and mahalo for the run it tip, sounds like a good idea! BTW, I notice you are on Maui... My wife and I have been to Maui five times in the last five years. All of the Hawaiian islands are beautiful, but Maui's our favorite. We usually stay in the Wailea area at the Four Seasons or the Fairmont. We're particularly fond of the upcountry area on Maui and we just love the burgers at the Ulupalakua Ranch Store and the Mahi at David Paul's in Lahaina. As soon as we get back from Maui each year, we're already planning our next trip. My wife actually starts planning it on the way home on the airplane! If you're free one night the next time we're on Maui, we would be happy to meet you and visit over drinks or dinner. It would be great to meet another TYW contractor! Mahalo.

Paul: Good thought to check the wheels, I did this morning and they all measured 1.000" with the digital caliper, so that's not the problem. I called the Dewalt service line for help and the first person I talked to did not seem to even know what a wet tile saw was... Just my luck. After trying to explain the problem to her for several minutes, the cell phone dropped the call. I called back and talked to a bloke that was very knowledgeable. After reviewing the problem, he said I should take the sliding tray back to the DeWalt Service Centre and let them look at if for a possible replacement. Unfortunately, that's a 65 mile round trip for me, but that appears to be my only option, as they will not mail me a replacement or let me send mine back in for a replacement.

I checked further and the centre wheel is drilled and tapped about 1/16" below the front and rear wheel on the right side and is not adjustable. If you look at the rim on the wheel, there is an outer stainless band that forms the bearing surface. Even if this part of the wheel were totally worn away, the front and rear wheels would still not touch the rail on the right side of the rail. I'm concerned that having only one wheel bear the weight of the tile on the right ( will be cutting 24" tiles on it in the future) will cause premature wear on the rail and the one wheel that touches the rail and cause me continuing problems. So I'm going to see if DeWalt really stands behind their products or not when I take the defective tray back to the service centre. I sure hope I can get a correctly machined tray, because I'm itching to get that bad boy fired up and cutting tile!!!
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Old 08-12-2010, 02:10 PM   #8
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Steve,

think ya hit it on the head with the defective trays.


I have owned 2 Dewalts - the first one in '06 (first gen saw) & another in '08 (second gen saw).

My first saw was dead on top to bottom - no problems

second saw - has the cart issue - 2 wheels touch and the third is barely off the rail. Had to align out of the box.
First saw was stolen from me - that's the reason for replacement saw.

T3 Razor is a great blade!!

btw- you should be able to center the blade via the rail adjustments.

think Dewalt is farming out the manufacturing. less quality control ??
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Old 08-12-2010, 03:51 PM   #9
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Hello Tim,

Thanks for the info... Were you able to get your defective tray assembly replaced under the warranty? I just checked and a replacement tray assembly is $266.00 USD without any rollers and you get to wait two to three weeks for it to arrive via mail order... I sure hope I don't have to buy another tray for a brand new saw that has never even been turned on, but knowing my luck with warranties... I also had to align the saw quite a bit out of the box, I spent about 45 minutes getting everything reset... I had a fun time trying to move the aluminum measuring strips on the front of the sliding tray... Whoever assembled the saw put those on when the yellow paint was still wet, so they were stuck on (Warning: English humor = on) "as tight as a ducks butt and that's waterproof!" (English humor = off) It took quite a bit of prying to break the paint bond on the back of the aluminum strip. That centre right roller wheel under the tray though was a real bugger and it steadfastly stood its ground defiantly.

If DeWalt will not replace the tray under the warranty, I might try to get it filled in, drilled and threaded in the correct location. A local machine shop wants ~ $100.00 to fill/drill and tap it using GTAW (gas tungsten arc welding). Less $ than a new replacement tray, but still a bummer nonetheless if it comes to that. If I can find a lantern and a lunch, I'm gonna make the long trek into town to the DeWalt service centre tomorrow and see if I can get this all sorted. Thanks again!
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Old 08-12-2010, 04:03 PM   #10
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Steve,

The dewalt factory repair facility on Tidwell is a joke. They took 6 weeks to fix mine and only got it right by mailing me a complete new saw.

They start at 8 am sharp with their first smoke break at 9 am. I'm dead serious.

Find the conact info for the dewalt rep at your local Home Burrito
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Old 08-12-2010, 05:12 PM   #11
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Hello Paul,

Thanks for the information about the DRC... I guess it's worth a shot, but I prolly know what the outcome will be... It really steams my bucket to have to pay to have something repaired that is just out of the box. A friend of mine says most warranties are full of "Weasel Words." I tend to agree.. I'll see if I can get in touch with the DeWalt regional rep if all else fails. The machine shop said it would be 2 - 3 weeks before they could even get to it if it comes to that...
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:02 PM   #12
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Steve- 4 jigs for the rhomboids, well, 3 but one used twice in different configurations. Lots of sectets. Maybe we can discuss it off hours at mud school.

.
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Old 08-13-2010, 06:37 AM   #13
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Thanks Gueuzeman,

I'll try to remember to ask you at the mud follies... When my wife mentioned how beautiful your rhomboid project was, I knew I was going to be doing another project. Looking at the rhomboid, I also knew that it would involve a lot of cutting... I sheepishly proffered to my bride "Running bonds and herringbone layouts might look nice honey...." No dice. Rhomboids it will be... Happy wife = happy husband...
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Old 08-14-2010, 02:15 PM   #14
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Talking Nesessity is the mother of invention...

As we join our intrepid Granite Rookie, the next chapter of tuning his DeWalt D24000 is about to unfold...

Well the folks at DeWalt were of no help in trying to resolve my incorrectly machined sliding tray assembly on my brand new DeWalt D24000 wet saw. No news there I suppose. If you recall my earlier posting in chapter one of this saga, the hole for the centre wheel on the lower right side of my sliding tray assembly was incorrectly machined. It was about 1/16" too low on the frame of the tray. This resulted in the centre wheel riding too low when the wheels were installed, causing the centre wheel to be the only wheel that actually touched the rail on the right side. The other two wheels (front and rear) were up in the air 1/16" off the rail... Unfortunately, the centre wheels on the right side do not offer any adjustment, since they are directly threaded into the frame of the sliding tray.

Since DeWalt refused to do anything, I looked into buying another new tray ($266.00 w/o the wheels), but I cringed at the thought of buying a new sliding tray to replace the brand new, never been used or even gotten wet sliding tray on my brand new saw. A local machine shop said for ~$100.00 they would fill the hole with aluminum and drill/tap it in the correct location, but it would be a three week wait at the minimum.

So, I decided to see if I could modify the assembly in some way to get all three of the wheels on the right side coplanar. After rejecting numerous approaches, I thought that the bolt holding the wheel onto the frame may offer a solution. After removing the centre wheel I confirmed my suspicion, the bolt is an all-thread design that is inserted into the centre of the wheel, through a spacer and into the threaded hole on the side of the tray. So, if I reduced the diameter of the bolt, it would introduce some slop into the bolt/wheel bushing hole allowing me to mount the wheel a wee bit higher on the frame, in line with the other two wheels. Good idea, but how to grind away a small bit of the bolt threads?

I have a small Proxxon band sander that uses an abrasive band that is around 1/4" wide and it runs around a very slim arm in a circle. Just what I needed. I mounted the bolt in a vise with the head and 1" of the threads exposed and I used the band sander to slowly grind away the threads all around the shaft on the upper part of the bolt, just under the hex head. (I measured the necessary width using the wheel as a reference). I also removed a wee tiny bit of the angled ends on the hex head to give the head more adjustment room in the recessed portion of the rim of the wheel. In addition, a black marker was used to place a mark on the rim of all three wheels, so I could determine if they were rolling correctly up and down the rail assembly when the tray was reinstalled.

After loosely reassembling the wheel onto the frame, I reattached the sliding tray onto the saw and using a socket extension, I tightened the bolt on the centre wheel. To insure that the wheel made complete contact with the sliding rail before tightening the bolt, I placed a couple of Marble tiles on the tray so the weight would be even across the tray face. With a wee bit of trepidation, I slowly rolled the tray back and forth across the rail assembly from front to back...

Ka-Ching! Angels in the heavens all sing Hallelujah! All three wheels now make full contact with the rail assembly on the right side! So I'm back in business and ready to rock and roll and get this bad boy good and dirty cutting granite. In my opinion, big D should have replaced the defective tray, but you live and learn. This whole saga is a shame and has soured me on the yellow tools. I've always had good luck with the yellow tools in the past and I have 9 - 10 of them in my studio right now. When you get burned though, you're not too keen to stick your hand back into the fire and get burned again. I hope this helps anyone else that may encounter the same problem. Good luck! The picture shown below is the Proxxon band sander I used to modify the bolt on my D24000.
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Old 08-14-2010, 03:23 PM   #15
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Was a time when DeWalt would have jumped right on that problem, Steve. As you have noticed, that time has passed.

Even after DeWalt was bought out by Black & Decker many years ago, the DeWalts were still a rather high-end tool. Seems now that their marketing people have become convinced it's better to compete in the B&D market than in the professional market. A sad thing to my thinking.

I have a number of DeWalt tools, including the D24000. I have a couple of their miter saws that are excellent equipment, and a metal chop saw that I like quite well - when I don't need parts.

Was only a few years back that San Antonio had a DeWalt store, which was also a repair and parts facility. Now they sell their parts out of a combined "power tool" facility with several other brands. And it's not at all the same sorta place.

Sign of the times, I suppose.
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