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Old 07-16-2010, 10:07 PM   #1
crave29
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no thinset under cement board

hi,

i'm just about to start tiling and i'm pretty sure the hack contractor that installed the cement board in my bathroom didn't use thinset under it. i believe he just screwed it right to the sub floor. is this going to be a huge problem? any advice/help will be greatly appreciated.

thanks
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Old 07-16-2010, 10:18 PM   #2
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Welcome, crave29. Please change your signature line to a first name for us to use.

We can't guarantee failures any more than we can guarantee success hereabouts, but installing CBU on a floor without the manufacturer required thinset mortar is 'bout as close to a guarantee as you'll get, 'specially with some of the more dense boards.

If you paid the guy to install it, and if he did not install it according to manufacturer's instructions, you're certainly within your rights to invite him to remove it and do it again. At his expense, of course.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:21 PM   #3
Deckert
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Bathrooms are small. Backerboard and thinset is cheap. Take it up, install your backer right, then tile your floor.
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:34 AM   #4
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hi,

thanks for your advice. both of you are right, but after the shoddy work this guy did i wouldn't have in back in my house to change a light bulb (there were other problems as well). i would take up the board and do it right myself but the heat is already been run and the tub is set in place. so i could only remove 1 full board and some little pieces without disturbing the plumbing, which is not cheap. i also noticed there were very little screws in the board so what i think i will do is screw it down every 6 inches or so and hope for the best. thank you again for your advice.
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:22 AM   #5
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Crave29 - what's the subfloor under the cement board? Plywood? T&G boards? Makes a huge difference...
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:28 PM   #6
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hi there ed
it's tongue and groove planks under the cement board.
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:40 PM   #7
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Crave29, let me again invite you to put a first name in your signature line for us to use.

There is no manufacturer of CBU known to me that indicates the installation of their product over sawn board subflooring. All require exterior glue plywood or OSB. And all, of course, require the use of thinset mortar under their CBU panels.

Your chances of success with that installation are pretty slim.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:46 AM   #8
crave29
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hi,

i'm not sure what you mean about a signature line as yours reads "cx" but anyway i think i'm pretty screwed. the cement board is all down and the heat and plumbing are run through it. the tub is set. there was only one full board and a few pieces that would have been able to be removed. so what's the worst case scenario? the tile will crack? or worse? i wish i would have looked into this sooner but, you hire someone to do a job for you who is licensed and comes recommended and you figure they know what they are doing. all i had to do was go on the internet to find this info. i'm obviously very upset. i have to go forward and hope for the best but it doesn't look good for my chances

btw my name is frank
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:25 AM   #9
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No, Frank, you do not have to go forward and take a chance. You can stop where you are and redo what's been done. It'll be cheaper than installing your tile, and then have to redo everything.

You can cut the backerboard flush with the tub, that doesn't have to be redone. If you used electric heat mats or wires, you'll have to replace them, since it's unlikely they will come up in one piece.
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:45 AM   #10
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the farther you go down this project the more its going to cost you to re-do it.
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:49 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank
i'm not sure what you mean about a signature line as yours reads "cx"
Yep, and now yours reads Frank.

What Bob said. And Eric. It'll never get any easier to fix the problem.

Or you can just go on with your project and hope for the best. We don't guarantee failures any more than we guarantee success, but your chances of not having a failure in the tile installation are pretty poor, think I.

Your house, your tile, your dinero, of course. Up to you.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-22-2010, 11:43 AM   #12
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aw man, you mean we can't send the Tile Ranger to his house to magically fix it? shucks...

Seriously - if the tile ain't set, share Hardie's installation instructions w/ your licensed professional contractor who appears to have done a WOEFULLY inadequate job setting the board down for you. See if he's comfortable, in light of having clearly done the job wrong, leaving it like that vs. fixing it for you (at his own cost).

Even if the tile is set and grouted, and/or you decide to leave it like it is, still show it to him. WHEN it (likely?) fails, you'll want him to be aware of where you consider the problem to exist.

Good luck to you. You're not the first to live on with a situation like this, but you also wouldn't be the first to have a failure as a result of it.
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Old 07-22-2010, 11:46 AM   #13
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advice on where to start tiling

hi,

i am going to tile the 3 walls and ceiling above the bathtub/shower and was wondering if anyone can give me advice on where to start? also why do the inside corners need to be silicone and not grout? we are using a colored grout that has no match in silicone.

thanks
frank
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Old 07-22-2010, 12:47 PM   #14
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I am not in the business of fixing things, "magically" or otherwise.

My mission is to point out blatant failures to abide by industry standards and manufacturers' instructions. As is clearly the case here.
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Old 07-22-2010, 01:01 PM   #15
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TR is a tough act to follow, but I'll try my best. What Brannigan, CX, ED, Bob, Eric, et al said.

Hey Frank,

You may want to get a REAL Pro from here to come and give you a little help. If so, post over in the Pro's Hangout that you need a "Tile Pro in ______"(your area). I certainly wouldn't let that hack touch my floor, except to tear out -at his expense - what he messed up. Good luck.
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