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Old 07-15-2009, 06:14 AM   #1
tim.buchanan
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kerdi?

> I have gutted a leaking bathroom on the second floor of my 1925 home
> and started over. Not having water drip in my kitchen below is the main
> concern. I replaced the floor with 3/4 plywood and placed 1/2 durock
> over that. I then framed in the shower area and used 2x4 for a curb,
> put in a drain and used portland cement directly on the durock to
> create my slope to the drain. I have stopped there as there are
> numerous opinions as what to do next. I forgot (did not think it was
> necessary)to place tar paper between the 2x4s and the durock for the curb.
>
>
>
> 1. Is the Kerdi system the best way to prevent protect underlying
> surfaces from leaks, mold etc.. ?
>
> 2. Do I need to do something different then what i did? it will be
> easier to fix my mistakes now then later.
>
> 3. as I am using tile for the rest of the bathroom floor should I use
> the kerdi way throughout the bathroom?
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Old 07-15-2009, 06:38 AM   #2
ceramictec
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Kerdi is only used in the shower area on the walls
and the floor in conjunction with the Kerdi drain.

on the main floor areas you will use Ditra.
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Last edited by ceramictec; 07-15-2009 at 10:04 AM.
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Old 07-15-2009, 06:43 AM   #3
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I wouldn't go any farther until you decide on your waterproofing methods. In any event, you got off to a bad start on the shower. Please check out the Shower Construction Thread in the Liberry to see how a traditional liner and backerboard shower is constructed. Then go to Schluter's website to look at a Kerdi shower. Decide which one you'd like to build, and we can help with your questions.
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Old 07-15-2009, 06:59 AM   #4
tim.buchanan
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thank you I will do that!
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Old 07-15-2009, 07:51 AM   #5
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Welcome to the forum, Timothy.

We're glad you found us. Bookmark this thread, and post any additional questions you have right here.
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Old 07-15-2009, 08:59 AM   #6
jgleason
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I will just add - Kerdi is a great option, the waterproofing being just below the tile ia definite advantage over a traditional shower. It is also well within the capabilities of a careful DIYer.
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Old 07-16-2009, 02:24 PM   #7
tim.buchanan
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So after much reading Kerdi will be the way I go. what I still did not see was do I need to remove the sloped concrete floor and the durock beneath to get to the 3/4 subfloor and start over with a water barrier and mesh?

the shower floor area is 3 x 5. this is on the second floor.
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:21 PM   #8
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kerdi doesn't need a water barrier under it. kerdi "IS" the water barrier.
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:27 PM   #9
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Welcome, Tim.

You're gonna hafta remove some of your pre-slope to install the Kerdi drain, Tim, and I wouldn't bother with that without re-doing the entire shower floor.

The "water barrier" he's talking about is the one under the metal lath that keeps the subflooring from suckin' water out of his deck mud, Jesse.

And yes, Tim. that's where I'd wanna start my new shower.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-17-2009, 06:34 AM   #10
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I will remove the entire shower floor down to the 3/4 plywood and start over.
thank God for sawzalls and wrecking bars!
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Old 07-17-2009, 10:12 AM   #11
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okay now I am down to subfloor and ready to begin again. The 32 x 60 tray will fit. What is the best the tray or mud? I need to find the dimensions of the tray to be sure the plumbing will work,
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Old 07-19-2009, 07:35 PM   #12
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Either the tray or mud will work well. Mud is way cheaper and can be managed by most DIYers as numerous success stories around here will attest.

The tray needs the plumbing to be in a specific place. Mud will accommodate any drain location - centered in the shower is best so the floor slopes uniformly around the shower.

Schluter's website has CAD drawings of their trays, just have to dig a bit.
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Old 08-25-2009, 05:48 AM   #13
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air pockets

Allright kerdi is all up in shower and everything looks great except.....on outside corners..
I have noticed, right at the corner, air pockets. on the walls that form the corner the kerdi is fine no air pockets. do i need to slit the airpockets and fill with thinset?
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Old 08-25-2009, 09:26 AM   #14
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Bucky, it's helpful to round over the outside corners so the Kerdi membrane doesn't have to make such a sharp turn. 1/4" radius should do it.

Slitting the Kerdi and stuffing thinset in there will not make for a waterproof joint. You need 2" of over lap to waterproof a joint. Cut out the un-adhered Kerdi, round over the corner, and apply a kerdi or Kerdi-band patch with the 2" overlap all around.
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Old 08-27-2009, 01:55 PM   #15
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thanks cutting it out and placing a new band over it sounds easier than what i was going to try!
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