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Old 03-30-2009, 01:20 PM   #1
bookhouse
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Charles' first bathroom remodel

I am a new member and this is my first bathroom project! When I moved into my 1931 house, the bathroom floor was mushy, like so many others, so I ripped it all out to the joists. The bathroom floor is 9' x 4'.
I plan on putting in tile, but nothing bigger than 3" pieces. My joists are 13', doug fir 2" x 7.5" in good condition, 16" OC. I could feel a little movement when I wiggled on them and wanted to be overly cautious cause I don't want to have to do this again.
So far I have sistered the joists with 10 foot 10 x 6's. I have put double blocking at the doorway and the far wall. The first block is so I can screw the remaining subfloor to the blocking and the second one is for the new plywood. I will also put blocking in the middle of the floor so the edges of the plywood subfloor have something to be attached to
The floor seems a lot more stable already.
The first layer will be 3/4" t&g plywood.

Now for the questions.
1.What grade plywood for that first layer? I've read the forums but can't decipher the answer.
2. How thick should the second layer be? I want to keep its a minimum as possible so the transition from the hardwood to the tile is close.
3. You may be able to see from the picture that there are some big patches on the walls that need to be replastered. At what stage in this process would it be best to do the replastering? I was thinking right after the second layer of plywood.
4. The first layer of plywood has a nice hole to slide into, but the second layer of ply will lay over the first and the remaining edges of the old subfloor. Does this second piece sit up flush with the walls and tub? Since there are some gaps in the walls, I am worried about that joint. Do I want to keep the floor pieces clear from the walls and new plaster?

Thanks for your help.
Charles
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Old 03-30-2009, 01:28 PM   #2
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Welcome, Charles!

1) Plywood should be Exterior Rated, with face grades no less than C (AC, BC and CC). You can also use Exposure 1 OSB.

2) If the second layer of plywood must cover the original plank subfloor, and you intend to tile that area, then 1/2" is the minimum thickness.

3) I agree. Unless you need to wait until you finished the floor tile. When ever you do it, protect the floor from overspray or spills.

4) Both layers of plywood should not butt directly against anything. Leave about 1/4" gap at the walls and tub, and 1/8" between each sheet. For T&G plywood, that means not to pound them tightly against each other.

BTW, nice work on the sisters!
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Old 03-30-2009, 01:47 PM   #3
bookhouse
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Thanks Bob!

Do you think the 1/2" second layer of plywood will be substantial enough for the tile? Or have I already already taken care of any deflection issues with the sisters and blocking?

Regarding spacing between subfloor pieces: when I cut through the original plank subfloor, the cuts were far from perfectly straight so there will be gaps when I put down that first layer of ply. Should I fill in gaps that are bigger than 1/8"? All gaps will be over blocking. Any suggestions on how to handle these?

Its very helpful to have your advise so I can move confidently onto the next steps. Thanks again,

Charles
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Old 03-30-2009, 02:00 PM   #4
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Welcome, Charles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles
Do you think the 1/2" second layer of plywood will be substantial enough for the tile? Or have I already already taken care of any deflection issues with the sisters and blocking?
Half-inch plywood for your second layer is adequate.

Your sisters are a separate issue. If what we see in your pichers accounts for the center of your 13" span, and your sisters are well attached, that part's fine also.

Your blocking appears to provide support for all your subflooring edges and that should be fine also. I'd recommend you use construction adhesive on the joist tops for your first subflooring layer.

Don't worry about any larger gaps between your new subfloor and old, just be sure you have at least some gaps.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 03-30-2009, 02:25 PM   #5
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The Joists are 13' and the sisters are 10'. The last 3' beyond the bathroom walls are not sistered. I can't see how well the joists are attached. Hopefully this will suffice.
Thanks,
Charles
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:07 PM   #6
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They'll be OK, you aren't adding strength to the joists, just stiffness. You got the middle 2/3s covered, so that's good.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:31 PM   #7
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Now, I ain't gonna disagree with ol' Injineer Bob on this sorta thing, but I just wanna know how he got that extry foot of the center 2/3rds of them joists sistered in that situation.

I know them Injineers they got some powerful calculators. Yep, yep, they do.
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:22 AM   #8
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You're right CX. Again. Looks a little short on one side. I don't think it'll make any difference, though.
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Old 03-31-2009, 09:10 AM   #9
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Din't wanna be right, wanted to learn Injineer magic.
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:28 AM   #10
bookhouse
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The joists are 2x8's and the sisters are 2x6's so I was able to slide them in a foot.

I have another quick question related to this project. The widest diameter of the toilet flange is 7"'s. Do I need to chop off the wide top part of (see picture) so the hole in the plywood is small? Or will an 7" diameter hole be OK?
Thanks!
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Old 03-31-2009, 12:37 PM   #11
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Ideally, the flange rests on the finish surface (tile), so the hole size is a little larger than the hub diameter. 1/4" gap is good.
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:01 PM   #12
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Do you know whether your finished floor height will work with the current flange height? It looks like a cast iron flange and if it's in good shape and will work with your finished height I wouldn't take it off. We had to replace a cast iron flange/pipe and it's doable, but a bear.

Others will know better, but if you're keeping the pipe and flange, I'd suggest cutting the ply to snug around the pipe and add blocking under the joint. Your 7 inch diameter hole in the subfloor won't work if you need to screw the flange to the floor. If it's leaded on then it might be self supporting.
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Old 04-01-2009, 11:54 AM   #13
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Thanks Bree and Bob,
I will have to measure to make sure the flange rests on the tile.
The flange is new and pvc and I don't think it is self supporting, so I guess I have to attach it to something. A hole will make this most difficult. Hm...

Charles
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Old 04-01-2009, 12:11 PM   #14
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Flange we see inna picher sure don't look like PVC to moi, Charles. If you've changed out that plumbing, I'd sure recommend you not glue on your new flange until the subflooring and tile has been installed. If it is glued on, I suggest you cut it off, couple on new riser pipe and glue on the new flange after tile.

You can just cut notches in your tile under the flange so you don't hafta drill the tiles to screw the flange into the subflooring.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 04-01-2009, 01:25 PM   #15
bookhouse
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I think the flange is actually ABS. I will chop if off and proceed from there.
If anyone else is interested in the relationship between the closet flange and a tile floor I found a long but useful thread here..http://www.plbg.com/forum/read.php?1,331635

Thanks,
Charles
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