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Old 01-27-2009, 10:22 PM   #1
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Bisazza epoxy grout


Does anyone have any tips/advice on applying Bisazza's epoxy grout? I have their "Shine" product for clean up and am installing their 20mm glass mosaics.

I'm not one to rush, so when I read that all cleaning must be finished within approximately 45 minutes of initial mixing, I started feeling anxious...
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:14 AM   #2
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Bisazza Fillgel - amazing stuff

I thought I'd post some details on the Bisazza Fillgel installation. I was afraid of the process - imagining I'd end up with a hard glaze covering every surface. But it was easy, and I highly recommend Fillgel for mosaics.

The Fillgel mixed easily and was soft and easy to spread into the joints. It didn't smell strongly - in fact it had a pleasantly sweet epoxy smell. It wiped off other materials easily too (e.g., Schluter PVC, walls).

The best part was that it didn't harden in 45 minutes like the container stated. Actually, it says that it may harden more quickly or more slowly depending on the temperature. I installed the "Neutro Base" Fillgel at 66 degree F and 52% humity. When I installed the first batch, I hurried and was finished in 45 minutes, but I realized that I didn't have to rush so much. It remained cleanable for at least 1.5 hours from mixing. So, I relaxed and took my time for the 2nd and 3rd batches. I'm guessing the hardening would really speed up if one were applying it in Arizona in the summertime (also - might other colors behave differently?)

The "Shine" cleaner (comes with the Fillgel) with the scrub pad turns the excess Fillgel on the surface of the tile to a creamy consistency that can be wiped off easily with the sponge while leaving the Fillgel undisturbed. In no time at all, the tile is shiny and clean. The Shine itself is sticky - I wiped the Shine coated tile repeatedly with water, but it stayed sticky. Because the tile looked clean I left it, and after about half a day the stickiness was gone.

I talked to Ben at Bisazza about applying the Fillgel and he was very helpful. (In fact, I had a great experience with Bisazza online - from the ordering to shipping to getting my installation questions answered. I highly recommend them as a vendor).

Ben gave me two tips. (1) don't get Shine in the joints before applying the Fillgel (i.e., work in batches from the bottom of the wall towards the top). (2) put some of the Shine in a spray bottle for easy application during the polishing phase (the initial cleaning is easiest soaking the scrubber and sponge in the bucket of Shine).

I ordered the Bisazza nitrile gloves, sponge and scrub pad. The gloves were a different material that remained slick against the Fillgel. The sponge was a real sponge - soft with natural holes. I also had a synthetic sponge, but it didn't work nearly as well. The scrubber worked great, although I think I could have used a standard tile scrubber pad available from Home Depot with the same results.

Anyway - the process was easy - much easier than using a cement based grout where you have to be careful of getting too much water in the joints and then you have to polish the haze off of all those little mosaics. With the Fillgel, when it's clean, it's clean - no haze - just shiny, beautiful tile.
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:47 PM   #3
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Dee - I found your post last night (after reading all 49 pgs of the Spectralock thread ) My project is a window seat with bisazza & other glass tiles. The fillgel seems to be the best product, considering the angle of those tiles.
I have a couple of questions: what is the coverage of one of the kits? and are the gloves, sponge & scrubbie included in each bucket? Is this what you get when you order fillgel from the bisazza website or do you place it through their technical dept? Lastly could you post a picture? I'd really like to see what you did.
Thanks in advance. (And a BIG thanks to all the JBF contributors who have shared their knowledge & experiences about the art of tile)
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Old 03-29-2009, 10:44 PM   #4
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the worst part about the 49-page Spectralock thread is that after reading it you may find that after all that you can't find the product too easily since Lowe's has dropped it and now you have to find a real Laticrete supplier.

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Old 03-29-2009, 11:02 PM   #5
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Lowes in Brooklyn, NYC, still selling Spectralock minis A, BC. My question is what are INGREDIENTS, besides silica sand, in part A? The msds seems to be a dummy-loading pdf page. I'd love to know what the quart powder package is actually made of since it's not the epoxy parts.

Thank you and yes, pictures please!

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Old 03-31-2010, 06:09 PM   #6
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I relies this is an old thread however, it helped me grout my glass tile backsplash using the same grout. I thought I would add my comments that helped me during the install process. Its best to have a helper to clean the grout while the other person is applying the grout, but in my case I was the only one. I worked with one bucket at a time. I also forgot to order the cleaning kit from Bisazza. I had about 45 min. working time, and my second batch I ended up putting the grout bucket inside another bucket full of ice to slow the curing time. Even when the grout was stiff, working the grout into the grout lines made it workable.

1. Mask area with 2" blue painters tape
2. Remove all outlets (speeds process)
3. Layout cleaning tools, 2 small buckets, epoxy grout float,6" x 2" margin float (best you can find, I used a kobalt from Lowes),small spray bottle (used a cleaned out I cant believe its butter spray bottle), rolls of paper towels (1/2 sheet), old t-shirt or 100% cotton towels, 2" paint/drywall metal mixer tool, white round polishing pad purchased at floor buffer rental store cut into approp. sized pieces (Home Depot tool rental store), heavy duty grout sponge cut into appropriate size pieces (available at home improvement stores in the cleaning section), Box of Nitrile gloves (harbor freight).
The cooler the inside temp is the longer working time I had (66 F was my working temp)
4. Combine the 2 parts together and mix at slow speed no longer than 2 minutes (slow as to not generate excess heat that naturally occurs in the hardening process). Make sure to get to the bottom and mix thoroughly.
5. Spread grout from the bottom up making sure lines are completely filled.
6. Clean excess grout with float or margin trowel (as grout got firmer margin trowel worked great as it gets uneven surface better) working from top down in a diag pattern (as best you can).
Check grout film on tile with your finger tip to make sure its still tacky when grouting, if it starts to setup start the cleaning process with white pad and shine. Its a bear to get off when it gets hard (my first batch)!
7. Clean the tile with the white polishing pad in a bucket of shine using a circular motion, sometimes required working with the grout lines to remove excess grout (the thicker pad worked better than the thin pad, I ended up using more of the thinner pad) and don't worry about going through a lot. The grout never really dissolves, just gets gummy, so new pads speed-ed up the cleaning process. I would wipe the excess shine off with paper towels lightly.
8. To make the lines cleaner I used the second bucket and cut grout sponge in a diag direction and sometimes with the lines on rough looking grout lines. Wiping excess Shine during the process with paper towels. This really helped remove the excess.
At this point the glass tile should be almost smudge free.
9. After about 2-3 hours (grout should be about play doe feel) using the spray bottle with shine wipe down the tile with a clean used t shirt or 100% cotton towel.
10. Clean tools with shine and white polish pad.

After a 24 hours I caulked counter-top to back splash with 100% silicon caulk.

I had 22' of back-splash, I did half with the first bucked which took me forever it seems. The second batch took about 4 hours. After the first batch I said that I would never use it again but, after the second batch I wouldn't use another type for kitchen back-splash again!

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