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Old 09-29-2008, 11:43 AM   #1
jkittle
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Cutting Ceramic Tile for Electrical Outlet

I'm putting in a 6" x 6" ceramic tile back splash on a diagonal in my kitchen and some of the tiles are going to end up over a plug and I'm not sure how to cut them out. Some are very awkward leaving a thin edge.

What tool do I need to cut these out? I have a 4" grinder with a diamond blade but I have not been able to cut out the shape I need.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Jerry
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Old 09-29-2008, 12:11 PM   #2
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Aside from the grinder, you could try a wet saw, but that presents a different set of challenges.

You may just need to keep trying (practice) or, maybe try a different/better blade. Not all blades are made equal.
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Old 09-29-2008, 12:39 PM   #3
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The grinders is just too big and to hard to control to get the small cuts neede for the plugs.
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Old 09-29-2008, 12:47 PM   #4
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Would it be possible for you to use an enlarged wall plate to cover up an imperfect cut?
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Old 09-29-2008, 01:01 PM   #5
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How about one of these?

Great for controlling the cut...
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Old 09-29-2008, 01:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
The grinders is just too big and to hard to control to get the small cuts neede for the plugs.
you certainly don't want to use a wetsaw then, the blades radius is much bigger and harder to make a gut out in a tile.

have you looked into a RotoZip ?
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Old 09-29-2008, 02:00 PM   #7
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The radius is part of the problem. I bought a ceramic bit for my roto zip and It burned up the bit before I could even cut one tile. I'm stumped.
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Old 09-29-2008, 02:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
I bought a ceramic bit for my roto zip and It burned up the bit before I could even cut one tile.
huh, weird,
Jeff @ Silvercitytile uses the RotoZip a lot on porcelain
tile from what he has told me and shown me and it cuts for at least a job.
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Old 09-29-2008, 02:06 PM   #9
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In my opinion, table top tile saws are ideal for electrical outlets / plunge cuts.

By cutting from the underside as in the picture, the blade diameter is irrelevant as you simply stop plunging as the blade reaches your outline mark.
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Old 09-29-2008, 02:28 PM   #10
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Dewalt,

assuming you are a tile pro.
a pro like me and you making a cut with a wet saw is a little different then a DIY'er/Homeowner making a cut. might be a little difficult for them and also not safe while plunging a tile on a blade that might grab it if twisted and shoot it across the room.

a 4" blade with a small radius would be better for a smaller tile.
surprised you don't know this being in the tile saw industry.

Quote:
the blade diameter is irrelevant as you simply stop plunging as the blade reaches your outline mark.
the blade diameter is relevant especially when your using a 4" or 6" tile for a back splash.
when cutting through the back you will also be cutting past each edge of the tile which will weaken the smaller tile.

a small radius blade would be better for a smaller tile.

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Old 09-29-2008, 02:44 PM   #11
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Push comes to shove you could always consider moving your layout or your outlet a little to make the cuts fall in a better location, Jerry.

But you aughta be able to make those cuts. Having a variable speed angle grinder can help a whole lot, or getting a speed control for the one you have.

A little table-top wet saw can be useful, too, as out new friend DEWALT (who is soon to add a first name to his signature) points out. I have the little Felker TS-50 and it's easy to work with on things like that. Wet and messy, but easy.

Brian, I've seen those bits Jeff has for his RotoZip and they look pretty substantial, for sure. Don't know where he gets'em, though, nor the name. I think he got the first ones, the one I saw and some mates, by beating up some vendor at the last Coverings and takin' his. He'll prolly deny that, though.

Welcome Aboard, DEWALT. Please go to the UserCP, find Edit Signature and enter a first name for us to use. Come on over to the Professionals' Hangout and start an introductory thread and get to know the other folks. We're a pretty friendly group hereabouts.
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Old 09-29-2008, 02:59 PM   #12
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Brian, I've seen those bits Jeff has for his RotoZip and they look pretty substantial, for sure. Don't know where he gets'em, though, nor the name. I think he got the first ones, the one I saw and some mates, by beating up some vendor at the last Coverings and takin' his. He'll prolly deny that, though.
I think he is also using the porcelain bit and that would help.


this tile is definitely ceramic Jerry ??
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Old 09-29-2008, 03:08 PM   #13
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I have a wet saw, 4" grinder with a diamond blade, and a roto zip. So maybe I need to keep trying. My biggest problem is that the 6" tiles are on a diagonal and I don't have much room to work with/error, and since I don't do this for a living I don't know all the tricks of the trade.

I will say I was disappointed in the bit (bought from Lowes) for the roto zip. When I picked it up I thought it would be a piece of cake.
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Old 09-29-2008, 03:11 PM   #14
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I agree, a smaller diameter blade would be better, and never made any suggestion to the contrary.

The beauty of the table top tile saw is that they are very forgiving and can therefore be used by pro's and DIY'ers alike.

I personally would prefer to get close to a partially exposed wet/cooled table top tile saw disc spinning at 2,500 rpm and mounted under a supporting table than that of a fully exposed dry grinder disc spinning at close to 10,000 rpm freehand.

I have yet to have a tile grab and "shoot across the room", but maybe I have been lucky.

Either way I have lost count of the number of successful, quick and accurate plunge cuts I have made with a Rubi ND-180.

I have added my name and contact details to my signature, can you see them?
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Old 09-29-2008, 03:30 PM   #15
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welcome to the forum Roy,

glad you can help out.


is Husqvarna & Rubi part of Dewalt ?
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