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Old 05-30-2003, 10:17 PM   #1
ALBERT CASTANON
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Question Cbu's On Shower Walls

HELLO EVERYONE! I HAVE READ MANY ARTICLES ON THIS FORUM BUT THIS IS MY FIRST TIME TO ASK A QUESTION. I HAVE TILED 2 FLOOR AREAS IN MY HOME WITH EXCELLENT RESULTS AND NOW I AM MOVING UP TO A SHOWER PROJECT. I HAVE READ MANY ARTICLES, I HAVE BOUGHT JOHNS'S AND MICHAEL'S BOOKS AND SPENT MANY NIGHTS UP READING AND REREADING THEM. I PLAN TO CONSTRUCT A MORTER BED SHOWER FLOOR WITH A PVC
LINER BUT MY QUESTION CONCERNS THE CBU'S ON THE STUDS. I HAVE READ THAT TO AVOID "WICKING" THE CBU SHOULD BE HELD ABOVE THE EDGE OF A BATH TUB. ACCORDING TO THE INFO IN MICHAEL'S BOOK IT LOOKS LIKE THE CBU'S ARE HELD OFF THE MEMBRANE WITH SHIMS AND THEN THE FINAL SLOPED FLOOR IS FLOATED WHICH ACTUALLY LOCKS IN THE BOTTOM EDGE OF THE CBU. TO ME THIS SEEMS AS IF THIS WOULD CAUSE "WICKING" UP THE CBU. CAN ANYONE SHED SOME LIGHT ON THIS FOR ME? I WOULD FLOAT THE WALLS AS JOHN SUGGESTS BUT I AM NOT THAT CONFIDENT AS OF YET. THANK YOU!
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Old 05-31-2003, 04:00 AM   #2
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Hello Albert, welcome to the forum. We're looking forward to helping with your shower, but the cost of admission is pichers!

It is recommended to lock the bottom of the cbu into the final layer of deck mud because we cannot put nails or screws through the bottom (they would penetrate the liner).

In an improperly built shower (without pre-sloped liner), the cbu would be standing in a puddle constantly. This would most certainly cause wicking and a constantly moist cbu. Think of a sponge standing vertically in a bowl of water.

In a properly pre-sloped shower, the forces of gravity and mother nature help the deck mud to dry out, with the highest parts along the walls drying first. Think of a sponge standing vertically on another sponge that has been wrung out.

BTW, check your "Caps Lock" key, you're shouting!
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Old 05-31-2003, 09:23 AM   #3
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Yep, I heard that one
Dave's got you covered.And just as an afternote,keep in mind that your liner will run up behind that CBU about 6-8 inches.It would take alot of standing water to wick beyond this point.With the proper preslope it'll never get the chance to see that much water ever.
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Old 05-31-2003, 09:59 AM   #4
ALBERT CASTANON
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Sorry, I didn't mean to shout! Thanks guys for clearing this up for me. These forums have been very informative and I appreciate you taking the time to answer questions. I can't think of any other questions at this time but I will most likely have some as the project progresses. Wait, I just thought of one. This project stems from shoddy workmanship in a 10 year old house. The corner of the bath tub leaked I suspect because the contractor used greenboard on the tub surround and held the greenboard up off the base of the tub flange 2 inches. I tore the tile and tub out and decided on a shower stall instesd. A fiberglass preformed pan was not an option due to size constraints and besides a completely tiled shower looks much nicer. Now to the question, the tile surround did not extend up to the ceiling. I only removed what was tiled leaving about 2 feet of drywall up to the ceiling. If I use 1/4" lattice strips to shim the cbu away from the studs to keep a plumb line where the cbu overlaps the membrane, what can I do about the 1/4" gap between the cbu and the drywall at the top portion of the wall? Thanks again!
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Old 05-31-2003, 10:05 AM   #5
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Coupla options Albert.
Shim it out so it'll be 1/2" proud of the drywall, then you can use mudcap trim, it'll look like a real mud job. Or, notch the bottoms of the studs instead of shimming, that'll allow for liner clearance and for the cbu to be flush with the drywall.
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Old 05-31-2003, 06:12 PM   #6
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Hi Albert, Nice to meet you.
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Old 06-01-2003, 01:00 PM   #7
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Aggressive Pre-slope

I make an aggressive pre-slope, not a quarter inch per foot, but almost three eights. I also ream out the weep holes in the drain. This aggressive slope really gets the water out and down the drain.
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Old 06-01-2003, 01:32 PM   #8
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I like a 2" slope myself, absolutely no wicking but nobody can stay upright in the shower.
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Old 06-01-2003, 08:06 PM   #9
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Flatfloor,

Remember the bolla bolla back in the sixties?
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Old 06-02-2003, 06:11 PM   #10
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Hmmm.....
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Old 06-03-2003, 12:29 AM   #11
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Flatfloor,
but I bet you're ready for ski season?
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Old 06-03-2003, 05:59 PM   #12
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Maybe that's not the right name. I'm thinking of a board that was placed over a sort of barrel or drum that you tried to stand on. Getting on was the worst. You sort of jumped on with both feet at the same time. Damn near as tough as walking and chewing gum.

Somebody help me out here.
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Old 06-03-2003, 07:17 PM   #13
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1960's?
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Old 06-03-2003, 08:05 PM   #14
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Old 06-03-2003, 08:50 PM   #15
ALBERT CASTANON
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ALMOST READY TO MUD.

Hello again everyone. John, it's nice to meet you also. I am at the point where I am goint to begin making the pre-slope. In John's book it says to use masonry sand and portland cement at a 5:1 ratio. I can find portland cement at HD but all I can find there or at Lowes is general purpose sand under the name brand Quickrete and is located where all the ready-mix and concrete products are. Is this the same as masonry sand? If not I can go to a tile distributor and see if they have the stuff. Also since the shower is basically the size of a bathtub and the house is on a concrete slab, do I need to use a latex additive instead of water? What about pre packaged deck mud, is there such a thing and is it ok to use? If so is there any particular brand? I also have some pictures of what I got going so far although I feel my project is very boring and amateur compared to what I read about in these forums. How do I send them if anyone is interested? Thanks!
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