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Old 02-13-2008, 10:51 AM   #1
joesilva13
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Grout or caulking around shower drain

Hi,

I need a little help, I have built my shower pan and am ready to start tiling. I have raised my drain to accomidate for my tiles. My question is right now because I raised it, there is a small gap between the pvc drain and the mortar bed.

1. Should I put a bead of silicone to fill in the gap?

2. Or will the grout suffice once I grout the entire shower?
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Old 02-13-2008, 11:01 AM   #2
ceramictec
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if there is any movement between the drain and the mud bed you will want to push thin set down there to secure it. once tile and grouted it will be solid.
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Old 02-13-2008, 12:11 PM   #3
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Thanks

One last question should the top of the drain be flush with the tile or just a little below it?
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Old 02-13-2008, 12:13 PM   #4
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I grouted.
Flush
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Old 02-13-2008, 12:43 PM   #5
ceramictec
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correct, flush.
the pitch of the shower floor will
make the water flow into the drain. it doesn't have to be lower to make it happen.
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Last edited by ceramictec; 02-13-2008 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 02-13-2008, 03:02 PM   #6
joesilva13
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It looks like my mortar base is a little to thick for my shower drain assembly. In order for the tiles to be flush with the drain, the drain does not screw in so it looks like the drain piece is to short for the amount of thickness of the bed. Does anyone know if they sell a longer drain screw on unit? If not can I get some advise on how to get it to work without removing everything and starting all over again.

Rookie mistake on my bed calculations. Won't happen again if I have to do another but I'm glad it was my shower and not someone elses.
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Old 02-13-2008, 04:44 PM   #7
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Joe, several types/brands of drain extenders are sold. Extend-O-Drain is one that comes in different sizes. Go to a real plumbing supply outlet or buy online. Here for instance: http://www.benojgundlachco.com/appli...89&ItemID=1232
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Old 02-13-2008, 05:04 PM   #8
Scooter
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Joe, I usually assemble the drain and use the top of the drain as a rough screed for the final setting bed. If I am using a wood straight edge, I'll nip off a 16th or so of the inside (drain side), so the final setting bed is the thickness of the tile lower than the drain. The tile thickness determines the depth of the nip. If I am using an aluminum straight edge, which is more likely, on my final passes, I'll dig into the bed at the drain side to make the final slope. Final clean up with a steel trowel and a chunk of tile complete the feather.

If the mud bed is really sandy like mine, even the next the day a steel trowel can be used to shave off a portion to make the slope lower than the drain. I don't know where you are at with this project, but you might consider that.

If the mud bed had additives in it or is really old, that ain't a gonna work.
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Old 02-13-2008, 05:41 PM   #9
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Thanks Mike and Scooter

You have saved me so much time I didn't know they sold the drain extenders I only need about 1/8 of an inch an those will do the trick. I'm glad i found ths forum because I would have started from scratch.
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Old 02-14-2008, 06:59 AM   #10
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I am so glad this thread exists. I am in the same exact spot right now, only I have already tiled my floor and can screw out the top piece of the drain, even after tiling. (I hope I am not thread jacking )

Mike2....do you know if those drain extenders work with the standard oatey drain that has the "snap in" screen?
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