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Old 01-11-2008, 02:03 PM   #31
Brian in San Diego
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Sean,

In the last picture you posted, one of those two studs goes all the way to the top plate. If it's the same on the other side, I'd probably take the two inner ones down and replace with ones that go all the way to the top plate.

Was your quote for 1/2'" or 3/8" glass? I have a 24"x72" door and another piece that sits on the knee wall thats about 31"x51" (all 3/8") installed with brushed nickel hinges and handles for $942.00. I'd say your local guy is a little high.

Why do you need to move the door right or left? Was the other door centered? I don't see that it necessarily has to be.

Where is your main plumbing run (cold & hot) and can you get to them? Can't see where the drain from the tub ends up...that's important

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Old 01-11-2008, 06:34 PM   #32
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Brian- I don't need to move the door I am going to leave it where it is. I am pretty sure I am going to go with the Kohler Purist frameless door. I am a little confused though (as usual) it says from 30" to 33"? How can there be 3" of adjustment wouldn't there be a gap in the glass somewhere? Here is a link to the door.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...cStoreNum=8125

Back to the plumbing issues. I got down in the floor, man there isn't much room down there. My water heater is on the second floor and there is a 3/4" hot and cold supply that I can get to so I think that's doable.

I am going to run PEX line from the 3/4" supply to the shower head.

QUESTIONS:
  • The joist appears to be near center of shower floor. How do I put the Kerdi drain near the center if the joist is close?
  • You asked about where the drain goes. It tees into a large stack about 5' left. Can I run a Y into this drain for the shower?
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Old 01-11-2008, 07:17 PM   #33
Brian in San Diego
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Sean,

Here's Kohler's page for the door you are looking at. Click on the installation instructions. I think there are different side light panels that make up the 3" difference.

If the water heater is on the second floor then perhaps you can run hot & cold through the attic to get over to the shower. No you can't "Y" into that line coming from the tub. I'd need to do a little more research but I know the "rule" is that the drain needs to vent before it enters the waste stack. You also need a 2" drain line from the shower all the wway to the waste stack..no reductions. What I don't know is whether you could redo the fittings at the stack and run a 3" back from the stack to the shower and reduce to 2" for the shower and 1 1/2" for the tub. Don't know if you can do that or not. There's a master plumber from CT on the forum maybe he could tell us.

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Old 01-11-2008, 07:39 PM   #34
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Any input on the joist issue? Will I have to run it closer to the wet wall and deal with the slope being less on the back wall due to the different lengths to the drain?
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Old 01-11-2008, 08:19 PM   #35
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Sorry I forgot that, Sean. Yes, you have to do what you have to do sometimes. I was unable to center my drain for the same reason, but it all works out in the end. You put the drain where it has to be or the best place that you can get it and build the mudbed from that point. The slope will be greater on the wall closest to the drain but it is hardly noticeable.

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Old 01-12-2008, 07:00 AM   #36
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You want to move that hammer from above where the door used to be in THIS post before it causes a headache or sure!

Well done on taking the job on yourself there. You'll feel so satisfied when youve done it.
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Old 01-12-2008, 04:52 PM   #37
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bump- I did this before I saw your previous posts. Sorry

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Old 01-12-2008, 05:10 PM   #38
Brian in San Diego
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What's the question?
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Old 01-13-2008, 08:06 PM   #39
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Progress

The shower is now completely framed I ran double studs all the way to the ceiling and I also went ahead and widened it by nearly 5". The opening is now approx. 34 5/8" for a finished opening a hair under 33 (hopefully). Here are some pics. Going to tackle the plumbing next with the drain and running the 3/4" supply lines.

I spoke with a builder again today and he said I can definitely Y into that
drain line in between the stack and the tub. I asked him about the requirements about a 2" drain for the shower and he told me it already is a 2" drain from the tub.

QUESTIONS

Should I finish the drywall on the outside of the doorway or wait until the project is complete?

Does the curb go exactly in line with the door frame?
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Old 01-13-2008, 09:06 PM   #40
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Sean,

You need to cover the exposed 2x4s with drywall and you'll have to do the same with the curb. It is recommended that you wrap the kerdi over the curb to the floor. I would also wrap the kerdi outside the door opening about 4". I wouldn't have opened the door all the way to the ceiling. I'd frame down about 10-12" so that I could have 4-6" of tile to "frame" the opening.

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Old 01-14-2008, 09:22 AM   #41
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Brian- I wasn't planning on tiling to the ceiling only to 7' as the ceilings are 8 feet high. I was going to put the shower head at 6'6" as this is what I have been told is normal. Maybe I will tile to the ceiling though as this may be easier than texturing and painting a foot of drywall.

Any specific reason you would frame that in? If I was going to frame that in I could have just almost left the door the way it was to begin with? Aesthetically I think it will look much better open the way it is, are you concerned about moisture?

With the curb, I know I need to frame in the curb. After I do this is there any order in which to put the drywall? Ex: drywall the door frame first then the curb or vice versa?

Again please comment on finishing the outside of the door frame too. My brother said to use those metal 90 degree strips to finish the outside corners.


By the way after yesterday I feel much better about the project and think it is now definitely something I can finish and will be great!
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Old 01-14-2008, 11:19 AM   #42
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Look at some pix of how doors are done. There are (IMHO) pros and cons to doing it either way:

Here's my 2c:

The only pro: the look (if you like the look).

The cons: Another surface to tile and line up with other walls; moisture that collects in the ceiling doesn't have a way to be directed out.

If it were me (I did it this way in my shower): I'd leave the door side open up to the ceiling. If yr planning to do a steam shower then the area above the standard door will have to be closed with a transom.

Make sure yr jambs are reinforced (see JB's Kerdi book) if yr gonna have a heavy glass door.
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Old 01-14-2008, 11:29 AM   #43
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IMO that isn't a pro to me because I prefer the look of it being open. I think modern design is moving towards being more open in all aspects of our homes. The pros for me of leaving it more open are:

I prefer the look
Better ventilation for moisture to escape (as you said)
Much better lighting this way.


I am going to put a can light in there as well that will be wired into the main light switch so I don't have to deal with running another one.

As far as the jambs being reinforced. They are 8' double studs all the way to the ceiling. They are nailed in four different places to the main framing of the wall. We also put several extra pieces of 2 by in between the studs and the wall framing. Should be very rigid plus the added support of the curb which will be three 2 by's, nailed to the uprights as well as directly into one of the joists below.

Thanks for the input

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Old 01-14-2008, 12:10 PM   #44
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Sean,

As I typed that suggestion I realized that there wasn't much room above that door, but you seemed intent on removing it because of what the builder said. Pat (pmcenroe) is buidling a shower and I like the way the doorway is framed with tile. I wouldn't bring it down as far as the original closet. Maybe frame in an area that'll have a finished height of 8" and "frame" the opening with a 4" tile border. Generally tile is brought outside the edge of the wall. I would think the curb would/should be tiled to the floor(outside the shower). I understand what you mean about being open...I just wonder how you are going to finish the tile. Are you going to stop it right at the edge of the opening? If so, then you are probably o.k. the way you are. If that's the way you plan on doing it then a corner bead for that outside corner is in order. If you plan on tiling, then the kerdi should wrap around the corner as well and you wouldn't want the corner bead in there.

The drywall sequences with the curb/door jambs doesn't matter. I would install the KDAT lumber for the curb and drywall over it and the door jambs. Just make sure you have drywall to attach all the kerdi to.

I hope Pat doesn't mind, but here's a photo of his shower opening.

Brian
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Old 01-15-2008, 08:39 AM   #45
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Smile Shower Drain Complete

Finished the shower drain last night. For the most part everything turned out great. The riser tube is perfectly level. The only problem I had was that the hole cut out of the sub floor is not perfectly centered for the riser so I have to cut out just a bit to the left to make it work but probably not more than a 1/4".

Here are some pictures. Comments are welcome!

Tonight I will put in the curb and maybe try to tackle the 3/4" pex supply lines!

****Last night I picked up a Felker TM75 in good condition for $150 from a local pawnshop. Should be able to use it for a while and sell it for what I paid if not more.
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