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Old 11-29-2007, 06:14 PM   #1
Wayward
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Quartzite and sealing

Good Day Folks

Fantastic resource you run here. Great to get free educated info from the web.

I have acquired something called quartzite at a decent price. So far having difficulty finding info on it. I'm told and it appears to be sealed. Do I re-seal with a one of the decent sealers mentioned on your website like Aquamix?

My intention is to put this 5/8" tile in the bathrooms of my first new build. Do I still require a u-lay on top of the 3/4" OSb which is there now?

On renos, can I use thinset and lay tile directly over old tile which is secure to concrete slab?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-30-2007, 11:13 AM   #2
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Hi Bob and Welcome!

Quartzite is a metamorphic sandstone. Heat and pressure, deep underground, have caused the grains of quartz in the sandstone to fuse into a hard crystalline rock. Because it is composed of crystals liquids can seep into the stone and stain. A high quality penetrating sealer will resist liquids and give you time to clean up spills. If it has been sealed water will just sit on the surface and there will be no telltale darkening of the stone from moisture penetration.
I'll leave the installation questions to others here....
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Old 12-01-2007, 07:14 AM   #3
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Hi Bob

All natural stone needs to be installed over double layer plywood for wood frame construction. Your OSB subfloor will suffice as the first layer. I highly recommend installing a crack isolation membrane over the 2nd layer of plywood.

You can go over the tile that is installed on the slab, but I would look for cracking first and check for hollow tiles. Since this is stone, again I strongly recommend the use of a crack isolation membrane.

As far as sealing your stone, do you prefer a dark wet look, or a natural dry look?
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Old 12-01-2007, 05:39 PM   #4
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Good Day Mr Doitright, and Mr George

The crack isolation membrane could be Ditra as example?
2 layers of plywood, the 3/4' oSB and 3/8" ulay is enough at 1 1/8"?
This crack isolation membrane over the 2nd layer of plywood would be how thick? I am trying to mate up this stone at 5/8" + ulay with hardwood floors, as the stone is only in bathrooms.

I guess for a sealer in bathroom I would prefer a wet darker look. I assume the surface would be more slippery though. Is there a better or more practical way to go?
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Old 12-01-2007, 07:00 PM   #5
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thanks.
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Old 12-01-2007, 07:37 PM   #6
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Hi Bob

Impregnating sealers will not affect the COF of your stone (unless over applied).

As far as the underlayment, 1 1/4" is ideal (3/4 + 1/2). However, I have had success using 3/8" Halex (7ply birch plywood), and Schluter Ditra crack isolation membrane. The Schluter is basically an additional 1/8". You can also use Noble CIS which is basically a 40 mil membrane plus the thinset (or mastic) to attach it.

While other methods are available, the one I listed will keep you within industry standards, and keep your stone problem free from cracking (if correct joist spacing & lengths are followed).
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Old 12-04-2007, 05:22 PM   #7
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Thumbs up Sealing again

Thanks Mr. Doitright

So if determine the stone is already sealed, and try to verify what type of sealer went on it, is it ok to put more sealer on it. i was told to do this before grouting, if grout is darker color, and stone is off white. Would a 1/2" hardiback be better than plywood over the 3/4" oSB, for moisture resilience and stiffness with the dutra, or would the plywood and dutra suffice?
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Old 12-05-2007, 12:36 PM   #8
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Hi Bob-
Many people find that applying a sealer or grout release product makes cleaning up after grouting eaisier. If you have done the water test I described earlier and found that the stone is sealed you probably do not need any additional sealer prior to grouting.
If you wish to change the color of your stone, also known as enhancing, the best results are achieved when the enhancers are applied before any other sealers are put on the stone. This gives the enhancers the best chance at working evenly...
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Old 12-05-2007, 10:10 PM   #9
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Hi Bob

On the structural side of things, cementitious backer boards offer no gain in structural strength. Plywood has the upper edge over CBU's for that very reason. Plywood & Schluter Ditra or Plywood & Noble CIS can offer strength, waterproofing, and crack isolation in one package.
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