Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-19-2007, 12:27 PM   #1
SmallSea
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 14
Kitchen Tile project - some questions (un-flat floor & transition to hardwood)

Hi all,

I posted some questions here about a year ago when we were tiling our first project (bathroom floor and walls) and you were all so helpful. We're starting our next tile project and have some questions:

The technical details: we're tiling a kitchen floor with 13x13 porcelain tiles. The floor consists of 1x8s sitting on 2x10 floor joists (that we sistered with doubled up 3/4 ply with construction adhesive and 8d nails to minimize deflection over the 12' span of the joists). We put down 5/8" BC plywood on top of the 1x8s, followed by 1/2 durock (which we're setting in thinset and screwing into the ply.) We're using thinset and spectralock epoxy grout for the tile. The kitchen is a long, narrow U-shaped kitchen, approximately 10' wide by 14' long. The cabinets are removed and we'll be extending the floor under the cabinets.

We have two questions right now:

1. The floor is not flat. It is crowned in the middle (the crown runs the length of the kitchen) and slopes to each side. We have 1/4" to 1/8" drop over a 5-ft distance from the crown to the edge of wall. QUESTION: is this an acceptable drop? Do we need to build a "moat" around the edge of the kitchen and use self leveling compound? Can we just tile the floor as-is? Any advice is appreciated; I tried searching here and couldn't find a good consistent answer to this question.

If it matters, the kitchen is 10' wide but we'll have cabinets on both walls, so the walkable area will only be about 4' in the middle. We are staggering the plywood and durock and are not putting seams in the middle at the crown. Here's a photo of our old 1950's kitchen to help visualize the layout:



2. The kitchen is adjacent to the dining room, which has the original oak hardwood floors from 1957. The old opening from the dining room to the kitchen was a 32" door. We widened this opening and removed the door, so now we have a 42" opening. We don't have any hardwood flooring under the 10" of old wall that we removed. This gap will be mostly (but not totally) hidden beneath a breakfast bar/counter overhang. Here are some photos. The plywood is in the kitchen. QUESTION: Does anyone have suggestions as to how to transition from the kitchen to the dining room considering this gap?




Our ideas:

a. cut back part of the existing hardwood so the entire opening (next to the wall between kitchen and dining room) is un-floored. Buy some oak and make a piece of wood that runs perpindicular to the existing hardwood boards to fill the opening. I'm afraid I'm not describing this well; it would be similar to this photo, but the board would be wider to fill the entire opening:



b. we have some short lengths of hardwood from another part of the house. They didn't get sanded and stained when we refinished the hardwood, but they're otherwise the right width. We could put them down to "lengthen" the existing boards to fill that 10-inch gap. Might look silly because the boards would all be cut in about the same spot so you'd see a continuous seam across several boards.

c. other ideas?? I know this is primarily a tile forum, but I thought you might have ideas as you've encountered similar things at transitions... In both a. and b., we'd put another regular "transition strip" between the edge of the wood and edge of tile to cover the cut tile edge.

Thanks for your thoughts and ideas!
__________________
~Jen, Chicagoland
SmallSea is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 05-19-2007, 12:46 PM   #2
Dave Hessel
Oregon Tile Man
 
Dave Hessel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Astoria,Oregon
Posts: 351
Hello Jen, Are your floor joists 16" on center, 24"? The "crown you're describing is all too common for tile setting, and should'nt be a big deal. It just makes getting it flat much harder. A little pulling and back-buttering tiles and a lot of patience is all it should take for an acceptable job. You had a pretty good idea about your transition [idea A] perpendicular wood strip.__________Dave
Dave Hessel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2007, 02:08 PM   #3
SmallSea
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 14
Hi Dave, thanks for your reply. I'm glad our 1/4" won't be too problematic (famous last words?!)

Our floor joists are 16" OC and run the long ways (parallel to the length of the kitchen.)

If others have ideas or opinions, I'd love to hear them. Thanks!
__________________
~Jen, Chicagoland
SmallSea is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2007, 09:36 PM   #4
Dave Hessel
Oregon Tile Man
 
Dave Hessel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Astoria,Oregon
Posts: 351
Hi again Jen. Deflecto calculations rate your floor at L/672, more than good enough for your porcelain. Have fun.
Dave Hessel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2007, 11:43 AM   #5
SmallSea
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 14
thanks! if anyone else has differing (or supporting) opinions with regards to the non-flat floor and the transition strip, I'd love to hear them!
__________________
~Jen, Chicagoland
SmallSea is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:32 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2014 John Bridge & Associates, LLC