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Old 01-13-2007, 02:50 PM   #1
folsomfisher
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tiling over hot mop in shower

Hello all,

We are tiling our shower and have read through the threads as well as read the Tile Your World book. We would just like to make sure we are doing this correctly before we move forward! And, ask a couple of final questions. Any help offered will be greatly appreciated!


So far...

1. We have had the shower floor hotmopped. It slopes 1/4" per foot, does not leak and has been approved by the city inspector

2. We have put up a vapor barrier that overlaps the hot mop and greenboard on the walls that ends 1/2" above the shower pan.


Next...

1. we will hang cement backer board on the walls down to the shower floor and tile the walls

2. Then we will set deck mud directly on the shower floor making sure to maintain the 1/4" per foot slope. Once dry, we will apply thin set and set the floor tile (a la pages 126-129 of Tile Your World)

Remaining questions:

1. Are these steps correct or are we missing anything critical?

2. Our drain seems high (1 1/2" above the hot mop) compared to our dam (2" above the shower floor). How thick does the deck mud have to be as long as we maintain the 1/4" per foot slope?

3. Any hints on tiling the dam? Can we put thin set directly on the hot mop? Or should we build it up with deck mud, let it dry, then use the thin set to set the tiles?

4. We are using 1" glass mosaic tiles....usually we would use bullnose tiles to finish off the edges of the tile work, but that doesn't appear to be appropriate for mosaic tile. How do we make the edges of the tile look "finished"?

Whew! Thanks for the help. A picture is attached if needed.

Stacy and Todd
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Old 01-13-2007, 04:09 PM   #2
NCTILEMAN
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Folsom, only thing I would have done differently is take out the drywall. Also, you cannot attach to the waterproofing on the curb. Deck mud will work, but you must wrap lathe around the curb, only attaching it to the outside of the curb. Over hot mopped shower floors, I would also reinforce the floor with 2x2 galvanized 20 guage wire unnattached ,sandwiched in the middle of the dry pack. Good luck, Gary
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Old 01-13-2007, 07:03 PM   #3
Scooter
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I can't see, but hopefully the drywall is at the same plane or higher as the hot mop. The CBU has to go over the hop mop.

I think you're OK with the greenboard, just use a good poly moisture membrane, at least 6 mil. I'd put a bead of Butyl over the studs where the poly attaches to seal any nail or staple holes.
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Old 01-13-2007, 08:07 PM   #4
Davy
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Nothing wrong with the greenboard but I would have put the poly over the greenboard instead of behind it.

Mud the curb with wall mud instead of deck mud.
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Old 01-14-2007, 05:55 AM   #5
improve2
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Stacy and Todd,

Sicis makes glass mouldings to finish off the mosiacs. Here's a picture of one. I wish they had it available when I did mine.

Kim
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:30 AM   #6
Davy
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Kim, I used a double row of glass trim on each side of this backsplash. Maybe they are visable.
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:27 AM   #7
Hamilton
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I work over hotmops all the time. You should run your poly or felt all the
way to the pan floor. It seems from the pic and your description the
poly only overlaps 1/2". The minimum is 3" over lap and more is better.
Take a look in our liberry and read up on Shower Conustruction. This will help you understand why and how all this
works. Must be in cali eh, were one of the only states using hotmops
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Old 01-14-2007, 03:12 PM   #8
improve2
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Damn.... you have (BTW beautiful work) what I needed last year.
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