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Old 10-30-2006, 11:33 PM   #16
Shaughnn
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Hey Ed,
Here's a link to several of their products.
http://www.custombuildingproducts.co...er=diy&lang=en
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Old 10-31-2006, 11:48 AM   #17
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Custom's Speed Finish
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Old 10-31-2006, 11:51 AM   #18
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Shaughnn,

I've been there, but I've been unable to find the Custom Quick Fix that was referred to by Scooter in a previous posts. (Posts #5 & 15 in this thread.)

Most of the products in the link you provided say: "Mix amounts that can be applied in 10 minutes." I can't handle that - can't get it out of the bucket and screed it out in 10 minutes.

I'm waiting for Scooter to come back and further identify Quick Fix if possible.
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Old 10-31-2006, 02:03 PM   #19
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Its called Custom Speed Finish.

The idea, at least for tile setters is that one wants to set down the patch and tile in the same day.

The stuff is super cheap, and mixes up in minutes, so make a couple batches over the afternoon if you have to.

Unless your floor is quite large and the dips quite numerous, I've straightened out large 100 square feet baths in about an hour.

Just use a 3-4 foot aluminum straight edge, identify the low spots, trowel it on a tad high, then use the straight edge as a screed to scrape off the high parts. That takes a few seconds.

Then move on to the next spot.

If the floor is really pitted or its a bad SLC pour, you may want to have a second go-around with it later in the day or the next day. It will shrink a bit, not much, but a tad.
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Old 10-31-2006, 03:29 PM   #20
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Ok Scooter, I'll give it a try.

Does it really cure as fast as it says? "Mix amounts that can be applied in 10 minutes." ?? Thats a pretty short fuse unless you are a pro.

I'll see if the big orange box has some.
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Old 10-31-2006, 03:54 PM   #21
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Yes, it does cure fast. You can retard the curing process by using ice cold water. That means a quart container full of ice, let it sit for 3-4 min., then add only the water to the mix.

You won't be using much, unless, as I said, the floor is very big or the dips are really deep. Each area, say 2x3 feet will take only a few seconds to flatten, like 30 seconds or so. Slather it on, pack it down a bit, then screed it off.

Just like the Karate Kid, Wax On, Wax Off. Lemme know how you do--we're here for ya.
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Old 10-31-2006, 04:49 PM   #22
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I'll check HD for some Speed Finish this afternoon. It may be a few days before I can get to it - too much going on around here right now.

It's going to really get tough to get anything done around here when the snow flies. I hope to be heading off to ski whenever the snow is good.

I'll check in whenever I reach a milestone - or is that a millstone?

Thanks again,
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Old 11-06-2006, 05:05 PM   #23
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Arrow Speed Finish For a Flat Floor

I got some time this weekend and I now have a really FLAT floor!

Scooter, I found your recommended Speed Finish at HD.
It does have a short fuse, but not as short as the advertised 10 ninutes. It does screed off well and I now have a floor that is flat within 1/16" inch over 12' in one direction and within 1/16" over 6 1/2' in the other direction. Thanks for the tip.

I'm ready to put the NobleSeal CIS down with thinset now and I have a couple of questions.

1. Noble calls for a modified thinset - I'm thinking something like TEC Full Flex. Would that be a good choice?

2. Noble also calls for a 100# roller to squeeze it down. Do you recommend that or do you have an alternate technique?

I also have the tile on order now - supposed to be in later this week. We decided on a 2" hex tile. We found it at Mission Tile West in Pasadena and also at Trans World Tile in Northridge where we bought it from our friend Warren.

It's a quality porcelain tile (AA200/HX) that is very flat (the edges don't roll over) 1/4" thick and a pure looking white. I think it will look great.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks.
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Old 11-06-2006, 07:08 PM   #24
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Ed, I'm glad my advice turned out to be right on.

I have days where I'm such a moron, I should stay in bed.

I would follow the manufacturer's directions . I don't know what a 100 pound roller is, and I would use a large "J" type roller. I have a large one for seaming laminates on countertops. If in doubt, call Nobel, or ping their rep which is e3, but goes by the name Eric.

I would use Custom's product for thinset. They have it at HD and it is cheap and fresh.

Glad the recommendation to Mission Tile worked out, too. Those guys are awesome, aren't they? Not particularly cheap, but good quality.
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:28 PM   #25
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Scooter,
The roller that Nobel is recommending is like this one, but larger. The one pictured is 75lbs. It's used for rolling out linoleum and vinyl flooring.
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Old 11-07-2006, 03:50 PM   #26
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Shaughnn,
I checked out the tool rental yards and found a 100 # roller for under $20 for the day. I think that will work for me. Thanks!

Scooter,
Ok I'll pass on the TEC. I could maybe use Custom's Versabond to put the NobleSeal down and then perhaps Versabond-Flex to set the porcelain tiles. Sound OK to you?

I hope to be able to pick up the tile later this week and get started laying it shortly thereafter. I'm going to need some tips on laying these small hextiles so I'll be back when I have the tile.
Thanks!
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Old 11-07-2006, 04:02 PM   #27
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Versabond is my thinset of choice.
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Old 11-13-2006, 04:04 PM   #28
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Arrow Advantage Ditra

I just finished installing NobleSeal CIS on the bathroom floor and I must say Ditra is easier to install.

I ended up with maybe a half a dozen bubbles under the membrane that I had to slit and repair.
No bubbles under ditra!! No roller needed for Ditra either. Also be sure to install NobleSeal upside down or be prepared to weight down the edges when you install it.

I'm now getting ready to install 2" porcelain hextiles (they are about a 1/4" thick) and I would appreciate some tips on tools and technique.

1. What size trowel would you recommend that will give me good coverage but not result in too much thinset in the joints?

2. I think the best way to do the edges is going to be to separate the edge tiles from the backing and cut them individually. Is that what you would do?

3. Do you suggest laying the field first and then coming back to fill in the edges?

Any other things that havn't even thought of yet that I will need to know to do a first class job with this tile?

At this point I am working on the layout to get the best fit.
I am going to have to finesse it a bit because the guys who built this place didn't understand the concept of square.

Thanks,
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Old 11-13-2006, 05:34 PM   #29
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I would start with a quarter inch knotched trowel and probably go up from there. Set the tile and lift the sheets. You are looking for 80% coverage. Check your grout line and make sure you don't have too much thinset in the grout line. You need about 50% of the depth of the tile (2/3rds is better) for the grout to stick. I often wait about 4-6 hours until the tile is set, and go over the grout lines with a painters 4-1 tool flicking out the thinset.

I don't think it matters whether you do field tile or border tile first. The important thing is to snap a lotta lines and go over them with a Sharpie to make sure you are on target.

I happen to set field tile first, starting with the course in the center of the room.

I don't know what you mean by edge tiles and backing. The sheets may have a rubber thingies on the bottom to hold the sheet together. Others have a paper backing on top. Those rubber thingies shouldn't be anywhere near the edge. There are rubber thingies, use a utility knife and cut them so you when match two sheets, there are only tile meeting tile, separated by the grout line. The rubber thingies get in the way.

I will repeat something. Find the center of your room. Use the most visible wall and assume that is square and measure off that 90. Find the distance of that room and bisect it on that same base line. Make a 90 line off that. This is dead center.

Now using these lines, you will set your actual grout lines, by measuring your sheets and figuring out where the sheets fall. Because the grout lines are random, you can have skinny sheets on either end, but ideally you want close to full or half tiles when it hits the wall.

You will do well if you cut some 4 and 5 point halves, and have a couple hundred of them, if Mission Tile doesn't sell them pre-cut. I like to adjust the grout lines toward the end of the room to accomodate these halves, but with a 2 inch mosiac, you may end up with three quarters or a quarter.

Lay out, Lay out, Lay out--will determine how good your job looks.
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Old 11-20-2006, 12:37 AM   #30
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Scooter,

I've been busy finishing up details on my other project but I did get a chance to work on the layout ...and the layout ...and the layout. Like you said, it's a tricky task with the small tiles and the out of square room but I think I have a pretty good handle on it now. Looks like it will work out OK.

Oh yeah the tile -- well it will have to wait now. Alta Utah has snow now and we are off to ski for a week. :

I hope to get started setting the tile when we return.

Thanks again for all your help.
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