Shower Tile - Bottom row too small

[mike717]

I have finished tiling my shower walls and floor and its all ready to grout except for one problem.... the grout line between the bottom row of tile and the floor will be far too big... about 3/8", and I used 3/16" spacers for the wall tile.

I did the walls first and I read an article that ran through how much room to allow for the floor tile and thinset. Obviously, somewhere along the line I screwed it up. Other than that error, I am pleased with the results.

I am not sure if I should try to pop the bottom row off and retile it, or just make the wide grout line and live with it. Any suggestions???

How difficult will it be to remove the tile? I expect it would be difficult to get the new row of tile to sit flush with the adjacent row.

[jdm]

When did you install the tile. The sooner you remove it, the easier it will be. It's pretty easy to do during the first day or so.

If you do remove the bottom row, what will you replace it with? If you describe your tile, or better yet post a picture, we can make some suggestions on what might look good.

[Davestone]

Yeah, i wouldn't worry about it,i've seen guys with years under their belt make the same mistake.

[mike717]

Here is a picture of the problem.

I am really leaning towards leaving it as is because I think I would damage the adjacent tile during the removal. The tile has been on for about six weeks.

[Joan T]

Sorry -- this is a newbie jumping in with a question. Aren't you supposed to caulk the bottom joint, not grout it? By the way, I don't think it looks bad -- and I'm pretty picky. Nice tile job!

Tracy

[mike717]

I was concerned about that as well but I have read that, provided you seal it well, grout is not a problem. I started asking the question because I noticed that most coloured grout I liked at Home Depot does not have a corresponding coloured caulk.

I don't know if I buy the argument that the grout will crack due to expansion and contraction.

[jadnashua]

The TCA says to caulk changes of plane. You MIGHT get by with grouting, but assuming the walls are typical wood studs...they move. The cbu will keep the tile intact (usually) on the wall plane, but it can move relative to the floor or other walls.

There is a on-line supplier of caulk thatwill match nearly any grout...and the manufacturers often make it, but not all stores carry it (it can be ordered).

[krusr1]

Another neebie jumping in! I'm still doing some research (to get up the nerve)before I start setting tiles in my shower. I have the shower pan and the mortar bench completed and have been worried about getting that first one row of tile set right. What is the correct gap to leave for the bottom roll of tile? I will be installed the floor tile last. From this picture it looks like quite a bit. Thanks.

[kevjob]

in showers i like to layout the walls then set a ledger and tile up from there and before i leave i set the pan then next day i can finish walls and cut in bottom row i like to leave about an 1/8 th and caulk it.

[Mike2]

Mike, is the threaded portion of the drain grate riser free to turn? If so do you have 3/8" of upward adj. capabiity left? If so an option to at least consider is another layer of tile on the floor.

[krusr1]

Hi Kevin,
I'm not sure what you mean by set a ledger, please advise
Carol

[jay f]

Another option may be to put a row of sanitary base on top of all.

[Mike2]

Joan: Yes, technically the transition between floor and wall should be caulked. Many choose to grout it instead and hope for the best.

Carol: Look at this other thread we have going on now. The ledger support method is discussed here.http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=39365

And to all: Lets not get too many discussions going in Mike's thread here. Feel free to start a new thread of your own even if it's to ask just one quick question. We get paid extra on Sunday's for each thread responded to.

[jay f]

That's a new one to me, I'll hold my breath for the extras check.

[jdm]

Jay --

The Sunday rate is 1 1/2 times the regular rate.