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Old 07-23-2006, 04:40 PM   #1
overtaker
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mud setting marble floors

I have to install install 2000 sf. of silver trav. I would like to mud set the marble. I know I have to start with a bond coat then the mud then a bond coat on the marble. My question is about the mud part. How wet compared to shower floor mud? Additives to the bagged floor mud? How to insure it is packed enough. In the past I have floated the floor first then used a med. bed thinset. Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-23-2006, 05:29 PM   #2
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Hey there overtaker welcome to the fray... Gotta first name?

If you have ever dot set tiles to get them flat, mudsetting will be a piece
of cake for you . I basically taught myself how to do it, with the help
of information from others here. I mixed deck mud same as i would mix
for a shower floor. Skimmed out a fluff just a little bit higher than the bottom
of the tile next to it. Notch the back of the tile and drop it on the fresh
mud. Couple practice runs and you will get the hang of it. I prefer mudsetting
now.... once you set a piece of stone there is no sagging.
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Old 07-23-2006, 05:42 PM   #3
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overtaker, We use a mortar mix made by SGM, and the consistency you want is almost a workable plasticlike,this insures that when you beat your stone in it spreads for the best coverage and least amount of lippage. play with it to get your personal preferance, ...
Gl.
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Old 07-23-2006, 05:51 PM   #4
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thanks, and what a great site! Craig is the name. Do you add any latex or powdered clay? Do you pack it first before you skimm off the top? I was thinking of using a wood scread stick with a notch in the end ( just shy of the thickness of the stone ) to ride on the previously set row, to scrape off the excess. Thanks again.
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Old 07-23-2006, 06:07 PM   #5
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Craig welcome.

You must be setting over Slab on grade? I think wet setting is the way to go, but I rarely do it on anything but smaller floor. I usually float the floor then let the bed cure a couple days. Then set with thinset. The drawback of course is it will never be true flat unless the stone is perfectly gauged.

I've done very few large areas in this fashion, but If I were doing yours I would mix just like your shower mortar bed. 5:1 or in that general vicinity. I'd use a mortar auger or roto-tiler w/ dull blades if I were gonna heave that much sand and cement around. I would also just pull a few ft. at a time..whatever is managable.
Foe a bond coat I usually just backbutter each tile with versa bond a bit on the wet side.

If you've got the market, patients and hod carriers to do it like this you'll be one of the select few guys that are still doing it right.
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Old 07-23-2006, 06:22 PM   #6
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Actually it's an 8th. floor condo. There is a couple inches of high strength concrete poured over the pre stressed concrete. ZERO slab cracks. I will be installing pro-flex 90 ( crack iso. and sound reduction ) membrane first.
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Old 07-23-2006, 06:24 PM   #7
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I use a small hand rake like you can find in the garden section at H.D. to even out my drypack...you can put a little carotex in your mud if you want it to pack better,i don't but a lot of guys here do.I mudset every floor of stone like this...Then..what everybody else said.
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Old 07-23-2006, 06:50 PM   #8
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Thanks Davestone. How wet do you like your mix? What is the min. and max thickness. I guess my concern is if the mix is to dry and not packed enough it could fail.
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Old 07-23-2006, 11:55 PM   #9
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If it where my job I would isolate competly from that slab. Throw down some 15lb. felt and go an 1 1/4". Those floors tend to be very dynamic. I would also make provisions for perimeter expansion. As far as max depth I think anything over 2 1/2" should be seeing an engineer. (that's what I've heard or read somewhere.)
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Old 07-24-2006, 05:21 AM   #10
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I recently wet set a slate bathroom floor using a different method than the typical mudset. What I did was run a screed around the room and float like you would normally do, but only pull back a few feet, butter the slate and tap it in. It worked great and fairly fast for this application.


Good luck
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Old 07-24-2006, 07:11 AM   #11
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I just tore out a mudset floor about 2 weeks ago. The fact that it was mudset didn't surprise me, but the fact that it was porcelain mosaic did. They were those little rectangles with the dot in the center you'd see alot in the 50's. All individually set.
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Old 07-24-2006, 09:54 PM   #12
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hey eric thats all i tear out is mud floors with those porcelain mosaic and thick too
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Old 07-25-2006, 06:45 AM   #13
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Quote:
Actually it's an 8th. floor condo.
Oh man, you have to be a glutton for punishment
Hope you tripled the normal rate to make up for elevator time

Better get them helpers lined up

Good Luck to you ................next time Just say No!!!
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Old 07-25-2006, 07:16 PM   #14
EEEO
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Quote:
hey eric thats all i tear out is mud floors with those porcelain mosaic and thick too
First time I've torn out one like that. I've only torn out a few actual mudset floors, and there were stone. Funny thing is, is that if some guy took the time to mudset it, the only reason you'd probably tear it out is 'cause you don't like the look of it anymore. This floor was an exception though, the toilet must have leaked and it cracked the thing. Of course, I found all that after I'd started tearing out the ugly 12" tiles some yo yo set over it. Ahh, fun in the big city.
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Old 07-25-2006, 07:31 PM   #15
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the main reason for tear out is that we pull permits and have inspections and the floor doesnt have a sub floor over the joist and the top of the joists are angled at a 45 degree to lock the mud in, usually have to level and sister all the joists. so that we can use 3/4 t&g ply wood to create a new flate level plane.
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