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Old 05-14-2006, 03:03 PM   #61
DonB
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Hey Mark,

I was pretty much just shooting the bull about shooting the bull Although he appears to be fairly young, this animal is far too valuable to butcher. I'm sure someone around here will eventually realize he's missing and come around to claim him.

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Old 05-14-2006, 05:03 PM   #62
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Don

It's still a good bull story either way. Keep up the good work. Based on what you have been doing, I applied some of what I learned here in this thread -- I mean about epoxy grout.

I bought the linen color available locally (from Chembond), and mixed it up in two separate partial batches, after physically separating the components down to the nearest gram or two. Both times it turned out fantastic.

The second time I mixed a partial batch (60% of the total in the box), I stashed about 2/3 of it in the freezer immediately after mixing it, and brought out only as much as I would need for the next hour. This gave me plenty of time to spread it out in one area, clean it up and then move on to another area. I still have about three hot dogs worth left in the freezer, a long dong like Pillsbury roll dough, in a big white plastic bag.

I just bought another big box, the almond color from Mapei. Will try it out with the half-in-the-freezer trick too.
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Old 05-14-2006, 08:52 PM   #63
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Hey guys!

I read the whole thread! Don, great example/story about the bull!

I am still confused about thin grout lines though. It looks like Spectralock will be fine to use, but I saw that someone recommended that you hold back 10% of Part C and then someone else said you don't need to do that??? My lines are 1/16" and are the vertical lines in the shower. Anyone have any experience? Nash, what would you say?

Thanks for this great thread!

Clay
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Old 05-14-2006, 09:30 PM   #64
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Clay,

Laticrete says you can reduce Part C by 10% to make it easier to stuff small joints. I found it wasn't necessary to reduce Part C at all to do 1/16" joints. If you reduce this component you merely reduce your coverage.

It's all kinda loose and free anyway because the actual net product weight in the Part C cartons, which is supposed to be a kilo, is anywhere between 108% and 117% of a kilo. So if you reduce by 10%, you're really getting a full strength blend. Since I never mix a full mini, I use the Part C at a 110% rate for extra coverage and still had no problem stuffing my 1/16" lines.

A Laticrete technical rep that I corresponded with in great detail before I began using Spectralock told me that basically you can mix it to any consistency you need but the less Part C you use, the more expensive your project becomes because you sacrifice coverage.

If you use it, I suggest you mix your first batch to a consistency that looks good and subsequently use more or less Part C depending on how the first batch of stuff goes in for you. I believe the only critical thing about mixing is make sure your Parts A & B are equal, gram for gram, and well mixed before your Part C is added.

Don

Edit: Go to the bottom of the page to see what flush full 1/16 Spectralock joints look like.
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...5&page=3&pp=15
I should add a close up picture. Eh, maybe tomorrow

Last edited by DonB; 05-14-2006 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 05-16-2006, 02:04 PM   #65
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Darren,
Just curious if you've had a chance to do your Spectralock removal test. If so how did it compare to regular cement based grout removal.
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Old 05-16-2006, 06:05 PM   #66
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Standard soapstone glue is regular epoxy

I've got soapstone counters. I installed them myself and you use regular 2-part epoxy (five minute or 30 minute) to make the joints hold. I put epoxy on the edges and put it as close as I could get it to the adjoining piece. wiped it off flush and left it. You can barely discern the joint. It sounds like the epoxy grout is epoxy with colored sand, so I would guess it would work. But, of course, as Nash said, you'd better test it first.

John
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Old 05-16-2006, 09:13 PM   #67
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PST, I hadn't done the test yet, but since you asked I went out to my garage and did it. My test wasn't to see about re-grouting... my test was to see removal in the event of a broken/cracked tile. So I did not stop halfway... I removed all the spectralock from around one tile. I had no problem removing the spectralock... my method might not work for you however. I bought tile that is unglazed, porcelain all the way through... it is brutally hard stuff. I just used a dremmel tool, dove into the spectralock and gently pressed the grinder tip againt the tile edge and drew it around the whole tile. The dremmel tool doesn't even scratch the tile, but it removed the spectralock no problem. On a scale of 1 to 10, I'd say a 2. So for my situation, if I get a broken tile, I'll be able to do a repair job pretty easy.

Some additional notes... after doing my whole bathroom, I think it could be said that I was using the DonB gummy sponge method of initial cleaning. I found that if I don't clean the sponge off very often, but instead let the spectralock build up to a gummy mess on the spone surface, it actually seems to help the grout lines smooth out and even up. During this phase, the tile surface looks more like I'm finger painting than cleaning.

Next, I never used the freezer to store the spectralock until just now. I had forgotten to put the vertical tiles under the front lip of the vanity (is that called a backspash?), so I needed to buy one unit for that. I finished, I still had a good amount left in the bucket, so I've put it in the freezer so that if I find out I need more for some other small job, it's there and available.

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Old 05-16-2006, 09:31 PM   #68
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Darren,

What's the final verdict on your stain removal experiments?

We've lived with the "Silver Shadow" grout on the island for a while now and have found that no matter what's spilled, it wipes right off with a damp sponge.

Don
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Old 05-17-2006, 09:04 AM   #69
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I haven't bought a neutral PH cleaner yet... I've been working on other aspects of my bathroom project. I think I should point out that my stain test was not for the casual stain... I didn't test wiping up a simple spill. My test was pretty harsh... letting the materials sit and dry on the grout for over 72 hours. I did ask the guys at Lowe's if they sold neutral PH grout cleaner, and similar to my last question, I got blank stares. They say they sell grout cleaners, but don't know anything about the neutral PH part (well, neither do I really, but it's not my job).

Anyway, Lowe's sells a line of products called AquaMix (if memory serves me right) and the tile store I've been frequenting sells a line of products called Stone Tech. Recommend a product within on of those lines and I'll see what I can do on 2 week old stains.

Darren
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Old 05-17-2006, 03:19 PM   #70
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Darren,

I'd go with Aqua Mix Concentrated Stone & Tile Cleaner if going to a real tile store or Aqua Mix Tile & Stone Floor Cleaner if going to Lowz. I don't know the best Stone Tech product to use.

The only stain we've had that required any cleaner at all was dried on coffee. I just gave it a spritz of the highly diluted Aqua Mix stone cleaner and it wiped off in an instant. I found a spot of dried on tomato stain last night and it wiped off with a damp sponge. Otherwise I pretty much just sweep the island with a (new) soft bristle horse grooming brush and it's good to go.

For the Raven color grout in the granite, I just wipe it down with the Aqua Mix and dry it with a towel.

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Old 05-17-2006, 04:11 PM   #71
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Darren, may I suggest you post your problem in the restoration forum. BTW we sell Stone Tech in our store. I'm not qualified to solve your problem but there are people there who can.
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Old 05-17-2006, 04:55 PM   #72
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Jim,

He doesn't have a problem. He's doing an experiment.

Don
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Old 05-17-2006, 06:20 PM   #73
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Oh... I have plenty of problems... but I think we're talking about tile and grout on this board

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Old 05-27-2006, 10:30 AM   #74
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I kept little cookie of the silver grout in the freezer for almost a month and a half and just installed it. It was a little past it's prime but still quite usable. There's a limit to the suspended animation mode for SpectraLock. A couple of weeks and it's still as good as new but maybe frozen storage of a month or more begins making it a little iffy.

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Old 05-31-2006, 05:36 PM   #75
Brian in San Diego
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Since Spectralock doesn't need sealing, what is the proper amount of time to wait prior to exposing it to water, i.e. a shower. Is 24 hours sufficient?

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