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Old 05-03-2006, 06:34 PM   #46
Darren.T
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Just to keep you updated... it's been over 7 days, so the test board should be fully cured. I've begun my stain test, not with any of the industrial chemicals listed by Nash, but with the typical materials I'd encounter. I've smeared bathroom products, like shampoo and toothpaste, and kitchen materials such as mustard, jelly and ketchup. It's been drying on the grout for over a day now. I'm planning on trying to clean it tomorrow.

For the record, since the chatter has all been positive, I decided to move forward on my bathroom with SpectraLock even though I haven't finished my stain tests yet. I figure, it has to be more stain resistant than regular grout, so what the heck. It hasn't been 'easy' to install, but then again, I don't know how much different it is from regular grout (never having done that either). I premixed all the dry product before starting, and I'm glad I did. while pouring the individual C parts into the bucket, there was a noticeable shade difference on some cartons. Part of my difficulty in installing the product has been been my desire to get 'more' done. The difficulty occurs when I try to do more than one unit in a batch. Doing a double or triple batch leaves me struggling with a thickening product toward the end of the bucket. I've only got one wall left to do, so I'll restrict myself to one unit per batch and see if my arms don't ache so much tomorrow.

But overall, I think it is looking great. Can't wait to be done with it.

Darren

I'll post results of the stain tests tomorrow or Friday.
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Old 05-03-2006, 10:44 PM   #47
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Don't beat yourself up Darren. Mix your batch and stash it in the freezer. It'll be ready when you are. Just knock off plugs to use as you go along and your grout will be as fresh as brand new when it thaws out. There's no need to get in a rush.

I'm looking forward to getting the results of your stain tests. We haven't spilled anything but coffee on our silver grout yet. That wasn't a problem even though it was hiding under a cutting board for a day or a few.

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Old 05-04-2006, 07:42 PM   #48
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I'm thinking of doing my counter tops with soapstone tile, can I use spectralock on soapstone?? You don't seal soapstone, just use mineral oil.
I sure like the look of this stuff and the no sealing is great bonus!
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Old 05-04-2006, 09:54 PM   #49
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I have to be honest.

The truth is I don't know.

I'm going to disappoint you.
I could make an educated guess.

Soap stone sucks up oils ect. It would probably suck up epoxy.

It could be a positive thing.

I definitely wouldn't just go for it.
Buy a very small piece and do a test. PLEASE.

You guys are adventuresome!!
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Old 05-05-2006, 07:51 AM   #50
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The big question is do you really want soapstone countertops? Seems like that stuff is waaay too soft for your application unless you're willing to accept the inevitable damage and call it "patina".

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Old 05-06-2006, 08:20 AM   #51
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From what I'm reading soapstone isn't porous enough to take a sealer and even the mineral oil doesn't soak in, it just drys on top. They say it won't stain and it has been used for chemistry table tops for decades because of that.
It could be just 'marketing'.

As to it being too soft, I think you can just buff/sand out any problems???

I'm still in the 'looking' stage for counter tops. I want something different and it needs to be sort of 'old school' as my house is over 80 years old.
And I really do not like Granite, sorry but I haven't seen any granite that makes me want to buy it.

Thanks for the replys and if I go with soapstone you can bet I will do a test first!!
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Old 05-07-2006, 11:57 PM   #52
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Well, I did step 2 of my stain test on Friday and it didn't turn out as good as I was hoping. All of the materials except two cleaned up with no discernable stain left behind, but the hand soap and mustard did leave a discoloration.

The hand soap is colored--orange. I let it sit in water to soften up the bottom and then pressed it onto a grout line... to simulate someone using a bar of soap and then setting it on the tile. The mustard was just squeezed out of the bottle onto another grout line... just to simulate a spill. All materials were left on the grout for 3 days before an attempt was made to clean them. I used Comet to clean the tile, and then tried straight bleach on the two stains. The bleach did fade the stains, but not completely. They're faint... on a scale of 1 to 10, they're only a 1. Beyond 3 feet, they aren't discernable. Closer than that, and you can see it--probably depends on lighting.

I'm planning on making an attempt to remove the SpectrLock sometime this week, to see how difficult that is.

Quick question, I think someone (Nash?) said that SpectraLock remains flexible after it's cured? Do you still leave expansion joints are the corners?

Darren
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Old 05-08-2006, 12:46 AM   #53
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Cleanser + bleach

Bleach and Comet aren't the best cleaners in the world.

In a situation like that I would suggest a neutral PH soap.

Bleach has the habit of breaking up the dirt into very small parts which can remain in the texture of the joint. PH neutral tile soaps leave the materials in sizes that are large enough to rinse out of the joint.

For those wishing to clean their grout - SLock or otherwise, please don't use bleach. The bleach will not damage the SLock, but it won't do a very good job of getting the dirt totally out of it either.

Bleach will destroy regular grout.

When I need to: (Bad stain - deep cleaning.)

I use a nylon bristle brush to agitate the soap - then I let it sit (5-10 min.).
After that I make sure to do a rinse with HOT water - finally dry the area.

A great soap for spot cleaning is Aquamix - Grout Deep Clean.

You might be surprised what would happen if you make another run at it with a product like that - using that method.

I'm sure that your test items are still physically on top of the joint.

Mustard of composed of very tiny particulate I've seen it "stain" porcelain tile.

Now as far as replacing caulk.

That's not a great idea. The caulk provides more movement and limits any cracking or tenting of the tile caused by substrate expansion and contraction.

I will tell you that SLock will take dramatically more flex and strain than standard grout. To illustrate this I build a 12" X 24" "jump board".

It's plywood that I tile 2"X2" Tiles to with 254 Platinum Thinset, and then I grout it with SpectraLOCK Pro. On the bottom of the board at each end I place 1"X1" blocks. When you jump on the board the middle flexes until it hits the ground. I have a couple in customers showrooms that are stepped on just about everyday.
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Old 05-08-2006, 01:01 PM   #54
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We have a neutral cleaner in our store. The Stone Tech all purpose stone and tile cleaner.
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Last edited by flatfloor; 05-08-2006 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 05-12-2006, 03:49 PM   #55
Brian in San Diego
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Couldn't be easier!

Grouted a shower wall with this user friendly product and I am impressed! I mixed a mini unit and put a little more than 1/2 of it in the freezer while I worked with the other 1/2. After applying the first 1/2 and doing initial clean, I applied the second 1/2. I think I "bought" some time that way and didn't stress about getting the whole unit done in less than 80 minutes. The only thng I would have done differently would be to put down some clean plastic or roofing paper to catch those pieces that fall to the floor. This grout is like "gold putty" and wasting even a little seems like a shame.

Brian
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Old 05-12-2006, 04:15 PM   #56
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Talking I'm glad you liked it!

I'm glad that you liked it!

For the record I really do not think that you need to do the fridge trick unless you plan on doing little peices and waiting for an extended time.

You'll find that things go well if you relax and follow the timing in the instructions. 80 mins is longer than most regular grout stays open.

I'm glad that things went well for you.

Nice work.
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Old 05-12-2006, 11:47 PM   #57
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Nash, it may not be necessary but it sure is a handy trick to know. I'll give you a good example. Thursday afternoon I just had finished mixing a small batch of Spectralock when someone came knocking on my back door to tell me there was a big ol' bull on the highway out in front of my place. I stuck my grout in the freezer and went out to see about it and get it off the road before somebody got killed. I walked out the back door and around the corner of the house to find a fine Black Angus bull cruising up my driveway. Long story short, it took me about an hour to get this bad boy penned up and out of commission. When I got done, my grout was as good as brand new when I thawed it out and installed it.

Now I have $3000 of fine looking untagged, unbranded Angus beef on the hoof and another fine looking grout job. Best part is nobody has a clue who this bull belongs to or where he came from. If nobody shows to claim him, we may need to have us a JB club BBQ this summer. Think Laticrete will spring for the beer?

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Old 05-13-2006, 12:02 PM   #58
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And this guy lives in NYC.
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Old 05-13-2006, 10:33 PM   #59
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Right idea Jim, wrong coast. I actually live in LA

Were it not for nine thin miles, I'd be in Floriduh

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Old 05-14-2006, 10:32 AM   #60
Drivesme
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If it really is a 'bull' you may want to rethink the BBQ, unless you know the age of him.
Bulls usually don't make for good eating.

Now, stud fee's, thats another thing.......
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