Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-31-2006, 10:05 AM   #1
ronwerk
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 11
Getting ready to start a remodel...

I've been on this site for the past few days reading all the great advice. I've read entirely too much the past few days and I'm starting to wonder what will be the best method to remodel our shower. What I want to do is take down a small corner shower that was installed in our master bathroom four years ago when our home was built. The small corner shower is way too small and has only been used twice in the four years we lived here. I would like to build a corner shower approx 4' x 4 1/2'... My biggest fear in this remodel is of course waterproofing...
My original plan was to
1. Tear out the existing shower.

2. Frame out a new bigger corner shower as seen in the pics below.

3. I planned on doing my own pre-slope floor with the 40 mil membrane on top and finish as per instructions I found here... www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html

4. I then planned of removing all green board that will be inside the new shower area and replacing the inside of the shower walls with cement board...

This is where I'm getting a little confused... I'm not sure how to finish the walls once the cement board is up? Can I tile right on top of the cement board? Or do I need some type of waterproofing under or over the cement board? I figured I post this before I got started in hopes of stopping me from doing something wrong or something unnecessary.
Thanks in advance for all the advice..
Ron



[IMG]DSC01871.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]DSC01872.JPG[/IMG]
Attached Images
  
ronwerk is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 01-31-2006, 10:31 AM   #2
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
xWelcome, Ron!

First, let me point you to our Shower Construction thread. Most of what you will need to know is in there. You'll read that the order of work is to tear out the existing shower and pan, then the drywall to expose the studs. After you place the preslope and test the shower pan, you hang 6-mil poly sheeting on the studs, then hang the backerboard. The order is important to assure a leak proof shower.

After you read through everything (you'll see a familiar website in there), bring your specific questions back to this thread, and we'll help you get thins project going.
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2006, 08:38 AM   #3
ronwerk
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 11
Sounds good bbcamp.. I must have read that shower construction thread a million times by now.. What a great source of information.

I started the demo lastnight and I hope to be all framed up and ready to start putting things back together this weekend..

I have a demo question for now. I need to remove some existing wall and floor tiles without destroying the tiles that will remain.
I was planning on picking up a dry diamond wheel for my rotozip to cut a somewhat straight line and remove the tiles along with the greenboard on the walls. On the floor I was planning on cutting a "straight" line and just chip away at the floor tiles until I hit the line. Will the rotozip with the dry diamond wheel do the trick or is there something else that might do the trick a little better?

Thanks

Ron
ronwerk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2006, 07:00 PM   #4
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 11,807
If you can use a grout saw to remove the grout where you want to remove the tile, your remaining tile should be okay. The rotozip might have trouble with a floor tile (sometimes floor tile get used on the walls, too, in fact alot of times); not sure, but worth a try.
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2006, 08:43 PM   #5
ronwerk
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 11
Thanks for the tip Jim, If this wheel doesn't work on the floor I'll give the grout lines a try..

I went out and got a dry diamond wheel for the rotozip. I only had a little over an hour to work so I started with the wall.
That diamond wheel worked like a champ on the wall tiles... (Which were wall tiles) The only bad thing was the dust.

I'm going to try it out on the floor tiles tomorrow after work.. I know there thicker and harder so we'll see what happens. I'll be sure to let you all know how I make out..

Ron
ronwerk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2006, 07:10 PM   #6
ronwerk
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 11
Drain plug??

Any suggestions on what to use to block my dain for the water test?
I'm having a heck of a time finding something to block the drain below the weep holes? I need to block the drain about two inches below the top flang.
I know that one weep hole looks blocked, but I can assure you it won't be.

Thanks


[IMG]drain1.jpg[/IMG]
Attached Images
 
ronwerk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2006, 08:10 PM   #7
bmartin
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 9
ballon testers are available at you home center. They have a little hand pump attached that inflates them.
bmartin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2006, 08:17 PM   #8
Mike2
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: LaConner, Washington
Posts: 13,694
Ron, here is one kind of inflatable test plug. If your home center doesn't have them try a rental shop. Expect to pay $20 to $30 retail for a new one from a plumbing supply outlet.

Some members here have also reported success using balloons.
Mike2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2006, 11:45 AM   #9
AlexGu
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 30
Ron, here is my suggestion.
Use a regular ballon. It works fine, I used it about a month ago.
Stick the ballon down in the hole, come down to floor level and inflate the ballon right in the drain. I did it and left it in for 30 hours, success.
When you are ready to remove the ballon, don't pop it, pul slightlly on the knott and cut a smalll hole with sissors, this way no part of the ballon will godown the drain. Good luck.
AlexGu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2006, 08:07 AM   #10
ronwerk
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 11
grouting, caulking and sealing questions?

I just finished up all the tile work in my new shower. I've been cleaning out thinset between all the tile seams in preperation for grouting.
I think I'm ready to grout. I've been trying to figure out what is the best way to do the following? Could I just grout the corners and follow up with caulk to make it nice and clean?

1. Grout or caulk.. Inside wall corners?

2. Grout or caulk.. Wall to floor corners?

3.How long do I wait to seal with aqua mix. And which aqua mix do I use they have several different types.. ultra, ultra premium, penetrating, semi gloss, high gloss, enhancing???

4.Finally.. When can I shower after I seal???

Thanks for your responses?

Ron
ronwerk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2006, 09:21 AM   #11
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
Hi, Ron!

1) and 2) caulk If you tried to grout, then caulk, you'd have a big mess. If you just grouted, you might get to dig it out and caulk later, or might not, but that's just a guess.

3) You don't want penetrating, gloss, high gloss or enhancing. You can pick from what's left. Then read the directions.

4) Again, read the directions on the bottle of whatever you pick.
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2006, 07:39 AM   #12
ronwerk
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 11
Thumbs up Thanks To All!!

Thank you all for your help with the great advise, and for giving me the confidence to take on this my shower project myself.. I could not have done it without this forum.. Well,, I could have done it but it may not have been done correctly. Here are a few pictures of the new shower.
I'm just waiting the door to arrive and I'm done!!
Thanks again!!

[IMG]dsc01961.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]dsc01963.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]dsc01965.jpg[/IMG]
Attached Images
   
ronwerk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2006, 07:59 AM   #13
JPicasso
Registered User
 
JPicasso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 79
Beauty!
__________________
-Jason
Just another Home owner, with a perfectly good house that needs to be completly changed.
JPicasso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2006, 08:04 AM   #14
Shaughnn
Trowel Monkey
 
Shaughnn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kent, Washin'ton
Posts: 11,467
Great werk, Ron! Thanks for sharing your final product with us. I actually prefer shots without the glass cause it doesn't obscure the tile work. Great design and execution!
Shaughnn
Shaughnn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2006, 06:42 AM   #15
John Bridge
Mudmeister
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 66,704
Send a message via AIM to John Bridge
Way to go, Ron. Many years of happy showering there.
John Bridge is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:07 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2014 John Bridge & Associates, LLC